Hello everyone, first gotta say I love this site has helped quite a few times til now. I have a 91f250 5.0 with the 5 speed manual trans. I have pulled the transmission 3 times at point and can’t figure out why it won’t shift when running after a clutch change. New master and slave cylinder (bled with vacuum pump), new luk 07-908 clutch kit with pilot bearing. Can put trans in all gears and reverse with vehicle off. Press the clutch starts up will not go into any gear. The slave looks to be making a good push on the clutch housing it is making a clicking sound when clutch is pressed while running after this last exploration trans drop. I’m stumped. Did I possibly get a faulty clutch? I know the clutch kit is heavy duty do I need to upgrade the slave cylinder? Again it looks depressed plenty. The new clutch is the same diameter as the old if that helps and it’s not installed back words. Any help would be amazing. Thanks

 

Is that why you replaced the clutch or is this a new problem? Seems like the hydraulic system still has air in it.

 

The clutch plate was slipping/smoking under the weight of the truck. Just needed replaced. So it’s a new problem after replacement.

 

What happens if you put it in gear with the clutch pushed down and then try to start it? I'm thinking maybe the pilot bearing is not turning and binding up with the transmission input shaft. If that is the case, the starter may still crank the engine but the pilot bearing isn't holding that strong. Yes I realize you replaced the pilot bearing. Just a thought.

 

The truck will move forward as if the clutch is not pushed when I turn the key in gear. We tried power braking and starting in gear a couple times treating it like the clutch plate and flywheel were stuck together. I had suspected and was going to swap the pilot bearing on the last trans pull but got talked out of it. The spline doesn’t have any marks or anything to indicate it’s grabbing.

 

Are you sure it doesn't just still have air in it?
What you describe is normal operation for a clutch that is engaged
Bleeding with a vacuum pump does NOT work (for final bleed)
You need to manually pump it (the clutch pedal) a hundred tomes to work the air out
One bubble at a time, with each pump of the pedal
so,
Close bleed screw
Report back after pumping the pedal 100-300 times

 

There are plenty of people as frustrated as you about the clutch hydraulic system Ford used. You got air in the system and if you think it's all out, it is still in there.

Think of it this way, if all the air was out, the clutch would disengage and therefore, you will be able to shift. It is that simple. What is not simple is getting the air out.

 

LOL. I hear ya. It’s a simple system that is whats so frustrating. Would jacking the front end up to get the master cylinder above the lines trick I’ve read about for the rangers apply? I needed to hear the vacuum pump doesn’t work for the final bleed. Seemed to be a miracle solution on YouTube. I’m gonna video document this last bleeding when, if, praying it’s a success. Ill get it placed in the world for all to be inspired. I’ll report back after leg day. Thanks

 

I cheated when I replaced the hydraulic parts by buying pre-filled/ pre-bled. I clicked the hose to the slave cylinder then cracked the bleeder two or three times. Done.

 

Good way to put it

 

Jacking it up, cranking, banging, beating it with a hammer
Nothing works except pumping the pedal
That is the way it has always been
Not a big deal once you get used to it
I just gravity bleed them and start pumping
Pretty damn easy really, part of the clutch job for your 5-8 hours

 

 

Get someone else to push the pedal while you get the camera on the secondary cylinder/diaphragm spring.

If the spring doesn't invert, yep, you've got air!

I too have faith in the 'stomp the bejeezuz out of it' method, because in a fit
of frustration, that's exactly what I did- and it worked. And has, since.
But you have to bleed as much air out of it as possible at first, to get some initial
fluid movement.

t