I’m back again guys, help!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2014
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I’m back again guys, help!
So out of no where today after installing a new battery and wiring in my new alternator, when my key goes to ignition, the starter engages. I swapped solenoids and it does the same thing. Would this mean the ignition tumbler/barrel is pooched? There is a very fine line between ignition, and the starter engaging on the ignition spot. Roll the key forward to start position and nothing changes.
81 F250
81 F250
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Cross-Country
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So I disconnected the “trigger wire” or S on the solenoid, and the key does all that it should minus starting the truck. Something here is triggering key in ignition to power the starter
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Szo you know the "S" wire is hot with the key to on.
If it was me I would replace the IGN switch and adjust it as per the above instructions and see what happens.
Report back what happens
Dave ----
If it was me I would replace the IGN switch and adjust it as per the above instructions and see what happens.
Report back what happens
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
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I’m just about to do that now! I’m finding it strange how it happened randomly and was perfect before. How ever I did have an arc on the solenoid and I’m wondering if I bridged the contacts in the IGN switch when that happened. I’ll do an adjustment now but I do have a switch coming this week
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Cross-Country
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Hey Dave, after fiddling with the adjustment, the end result is the same, thinking it’s an internal failure
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From: Virginia
I am thinking something is wired wrong out at the solenoid/alternator. It was fine before you did that work. Not throwing you under the bus, but usually if something goes wrong after I do something else, I caused it. Coincidences do happen, but it's very rare.
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Cross-Country
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I thought the same, I checked and checked again. I went to a 150A 1 wire internally regulated Alt, And ran the 4ga wire with a mega fuse to the battery rather than the solenoid. I will admit, the power wire to the solenoid off the post of the battery was no good, I saw 4V at the solenoid causing it to click about 10 times a second. Will messing around I did have an arc on the solenoid between power and S. I just pulled off the ignition switch and moved it around with a pick after I tried some adjusting ( it was tight and hadn’t looked like it moved, how ever I was definitely old ) and it felt gritty between Off, Run and start positions. When I say gritty, I can hear it, and I can feel it. Really hoping that it wiped out the switch rather than a short somewhere
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FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
SO if I understand correctly, if the key is turned to "ON" it starts to crank but will not if the "S" wire is removed.
This happened after the 1 wire install what if you remove the 1 wire from the ALT?
What did you do with the other wires that went to the factory ALT and regulator? Maybe undo them and see what happens.
Maybe show us pictures of the "rewiring" and the solenoid wiring.
Dave ----
This happened after the 1 wire install what if you remove the 1 wire from the ALT?
What did you do with the other wires that went to the factory ALT and regulator? Maybe undo them and see what happens.
Maybe show us pictures of the "rewiring" and the solenoid wiring.
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2014
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SO if I understand correctly, if the key is turned to "ON" it starts to crank but will not if the "S" wire is removed.
This happened after the 1 wire install what if you remove the 1 wire from the ALT?
What did you do with the other wires that went to the factory ALT and regulator? Maybe undo them and see what happens.
Maybe show us pictures of the "rewiring" and the solenoid wiring.
Dave ----
This happened after the 1 wire install what if you remove the 1 wire from the ALT?
What did you do with the other wires that went to the factory ALT and regulator? Maybe undo them and see what happens.
Maybe show us pictures of the "rewiring" and the solenoid wiring.
Dave ----
**edit**
I’ll also add that the fusable link wires are on the power solenoid post as well, nothing happens without those, no under hood lights, cab lights, no power to anything
This is what the ignition switch looked like, relatively clean, but again, definitely felt gritty when sliding through positions when removed
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
What you let life get in the way, how dare you 
It's cool I was away last weekend so I understand.
When you can get pictures of the solenoid wiring but if you find the ignition switch fixes it then no need to.
Dave ----
It's cool I was away last weekend so I understand.When you can get pictures of the solenoid wiring but if you find the ignition switch fixes it then no need to.
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
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Yeah, I’m sure if I left it all alone it would have been fine, but I’m preparing the truck for the move to Arizona from Canada, so changing things is now creating issues I guess. Catch 22
FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
You know the factory did a pretty good job with our trucks to run in the freezing cold and the high heat of the desert in summer.
I have pulled a 20' enclosed trailer in 95*+ summer heat with only factory parts. No over heating or high running temps.
Most posts we see of over heating is after electric fan(s) have been installed and the motor driven fan removed just so you know.
Dave ----
I have pulled a 20' enclosed trailer in 95*+ summer heat with only factory parts. No over heating or high running temps.
Most posts we see of over heating is after electric fan(s) have been installed and the motor driven fan removed just so you know.
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2014
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You know the factory did a pretty good job with our trucks to run in the freezing cold and the high heat of the desert in summer.
I have pulled a 20' enclosed trailer in 95*+ summer heat with only factory parts. No over heating or high running temps.
Most posts we see of over heating is after electric fan(s) have been installed and the motor driven fan removed just so you know.
Dave ----
I have pulled a 20' enclosed trailer in 95*+ summer heat with only factory parts. No over heating or high running temps.
Most posts we see of over heating is after electric fan(s) have been installed and the motor driven fan removed just so you know.
Dave ----
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
Well I would tune for the 10% fuel you can get on the road when coming down to AZ as some states dont have ethanol free fuel.
When I lived in CT I would have needed to drive I think it was 50 miles to get ethanol free fuel and then 50 back home so that was not going to work.
Down here there was a station that had ethanol free fuel but I never gave it a try as I would not know where else to get it if on the road and needed fuel.
The only time I have had a fuel boiling problem was when it was 95*f+ and I sat with the AC running for 15 to 20 minutes waiting for someone.
Alsoi the same temperature pulling a 20' enclosed trailer and catching a few long traffic lights.
When I would get going the truck would stumble like out off gas and then be ok as long as I was moving where cooler air was pushed into the engine bay and cooler gas into the carb.
But once moving no more stumbling.
Dave ----
When I lived in CT I would have needed to drive I think it was 50 miles to get ethanol free fuel and then 50 back home so that was not going to work.
Down here there was a station that had ethanol free fuel but I never gave it a try as I would not know where else to get it if on the road and needed fuel.
The only time I have had a fuel boiling problem was when it was 95*f+ and I sat with the AC running for 15 to 20 minutes waiting for someone.
Alsoi the same temperature pulling a 20' enclosed trailer and catching a few long traffic lights.
When I would get going the truck would stumble like out off gas and then be ok as long as I was moving where cooler air was pushed into the engine bay and cooler gas into the carb.
But once moving no more stumbling.
Dave ----