I am going to be pulling the engine out of my 1988 F350 Custom (4x4, Long Bed, Crew Cab?) to make it easier to do smog delete, injectors, etc. And I have to replace the radiator core support from a typical rusted out issue. Already decided to upgrade to electric fans since I am pulling the whole front off.

I also want to take the time to clean the engine and would like to get a solid/stock rebuild kit. The site I linked below has a master kit as an example but I also don't know what options to choose from. I do not want to send the block off yet since I want to get it out of my parents driveway by the end of the month. I just want to rehab the engine enough to put a bit more pep back in. Eventually, I will pull the engine again to do some performance upgrades and will probably send the block off to get inspected and rehabed then. I do want to try and keep the 351W but am open to swapping in a 460 in the future (rebuild & performance parts).

My goal is a general overlanding vehicle that retains a semi stock look from the outside, but inside will be upgraded. This will also be my second vehicle but I plan to drive it daily because when it was running it was fun to drive.

So any tips on what to look for in a rebuild kit or links to ones please.

https://northernautoparts.com/ford-351w-1987-1993-master-kit/?srsltid=AfmBOooxrrBtmVfxS9LFySyYyYD_5xiR3d3mH6J0U r0tcPiuo7oFiKdaft8

 

Well, first off, you usually send the block to the machine shop first, as it may have a crack in it.
Also, you will then know what pistons to get. If you buy .030, and you have standard bore, you have to send it to the machine shop.
If you send to the machine shop, they may say its already .060, and needs to be bored, then you probably will want another block.
Or if the machine shop says its already .030, then you will want to go .060.

If your not wanting to send the block off, you may end up spending a lot of money(wasted) on a junk block.

What's wrong with the engine? Is it apart or heads still on?
Have you done a compression test.

Also, a big no to electric fans. Have you not read all the posts about how the electric fans do not move as much air as the stock system when in working conditions?

 

The engine is still in. It died on me in my parents driveway a few months ago and I have been chasing the issue since. I did a compression test but can't remember what I did. It was one of the first things suggested when I replaced the spark plugs. It was running and driving mostly before it died and would crank but not start. I am now down to pulling the injectors and fuel rail to replace and clean respectively (After that is messing with timing but I would send it out for that).

But part of the core support where is attaches to the frame is rusted out (I guess its a known water pooling issue). Since I have to take a a lot of front end stuff off for that I figured I would pull the engine. It would make the injector replacement and much easier, I have one bolt left at the back and simply cannot get to it. It would also help me reach behind engine as I delete the smog. I do need to replace one valve cover gasket as well. I also had to replace both main oil seals so I need to clean the engine too.

I was hoping there was a basic kit to save money. The one I linked seems to be in line with others so I used it as an example. I was hoping there was a kit with seals, belt, etc. Just a simple refresh so I can drive it while I look at a engine swap to maybe a 460 that I rebuild way down the line. But I also do not know what has been repaired and replaced. It was exempt due to mileage quite awhile ago. And it was farm truck for its whole life so there aren't records after it was exempted. If I could find a donor truck in a salvage yard that had all the 7.3 IDI stuff but otherwise is not useable I would make that a long summer project (I teach).

At the end of the month if I still can't get it to run I will be having it towed to a shop, giving them what I have done, and then hope its not expensive.

I am spending to get a good modern 3 row all aluminum radiator with two large electric fans and a shroud. The wiring kit I got has variable temps but also a a/c wire and a manual switch so I can turn the fans on. I also got a hose replacement kit as well. I am not reusing any stock parts. I even am swapping in a better pump like I did with the alternator so it would stop killing batteries.

I also have random wires and a switch. I hope its not them causing my issue. There is a toggle switch next to the radio and an unplugged wire that leads into the front bench seat on the drivers side. I think it was an attempt at a heated seat because there is a big janky patch on the seat. They are the all vinyl ones. I want to switch to the old ones that had a cloth insert specifially so I can put in heated seats and not melt it all.

 

It seems like you might be better off diagnosing why the engine quit in the first place rather than doing a lot of rebuild work. It could be a simple spark or fuel related issue.

 

I've gone over it as much as I can with it being stuck in a driveway. It was supposed to be a running project. The last things to check are the injectors and fuel rail for clog/blockage because I get the correct fuel psi but no fuel seems to be delivered. The current injectors do click and there is compression.

Its got two new fuel tanks with new sending units, no leaks on the lines, new tank selector valve, new fuel filter and inline pump, new throttle position sensor, new map (or maf? forget), new and upgraded alternator and new battery after the old alternator killed three (one old and two new). Thankfully it was under warranty. It also got a new ignition module and distributor. New spark plugs and wires. And I already had to replace some lines due to rot.

I simply can't reach the last bolt for the air intake manifold to get it off which would allow me to pull the fuel rail and injectors. I have a smog delete kit that I know would help me reach behind the engine.

Just a thought since I have to pull out most of the front end stuff to replace the core support that rotted out. Figured if I have it opened up like that already why not pull the motor which would make it easier for me to delete and air pump and even swap to a higher capacity pump for the coolant. Plus make my life easier to get to injectors and fuel rails. Plus it would let me give it a thorough cleaning due to the mail seal leaks. And since I have a small valve cover leak I was hoping there was a belt, hose, etc. refresh kit. Moreso also because there are no records after it was exempted years ago when it rolled over the odometer and reached the correct age.

I have the space in my parents garage to keep it inside and they do not mind. If I can't get it running at the end of the month the plan is to tow it to a local shop and hope its not expensive. Like when I took it to a shop when I got it back to town on a trailer.

 

If the bolt you are having trouble with is the center bolt under the upper manifold, it has a Torx T40 head. I use a homemade tool.

Also, you can usually reach under and place a 3/8 drive, T40 socket on the bolt and then insert a long 3/8 extension down through the gap in the upper manifold.

 

Completely agree with this and a high probability of spending a lot of money on an engine that still doesn’t start.

How did it die? Loss of fuel or spark? How was replacing the spark plugs going to help if you didn’t make sure it is a spark issue? Go rent or buy a noid light to see if the computer is triggering the injectors to fire.

What is the problem with the air injection and EGR systems that you are going to remove one or both of them?

Are you also going to replace the catalytic converter with a modern converter without an air tube?

Maybe you should do that sooner than later if you aren’t going to take a logical troubleshooting approach.

The stock one or two row radiator along with the mechanical fan is more than enough to keep the engine cool. A 3 row radiator and electric fans are money wasted. What do you mean you are “swapping in a better pump like I did with the alternator so it would stop killing batteries?” There Enns’s has an electric water pump instead of the mechanical pump?

IMO, you need to follow the mystery wires to see where they go.

Is the computer triggering the injectors to fire? Would you share with us what “correct” fuel pressure you are seeing?

Why did you replace the distributor and ICM?

Which upper plenum bolt can you not remove?

Another waste of money. There is no reason for a high flow water pump.

 

I got that one out by buying some long torx. The one I can't reach is the middle one at the back. I got 5 of the bolts out. There are insulated hoses above it that I don't want to risk bending and with the smog hoses right next to it I can't get a socket on it, nor see where it is.

 

Its just what I wanted to put in as part of my refresh. Since I plan this to be a 3-4 year project and make it a overlander along the lines of Unreal Adventure where you have to road miles and trails (and never sell since its 95% my dream truck I know I will pick things specifically to upgrade or replace because I enjoy working on it. Though I also need to replace the whole bed and do not look forward to hauling one. This is my second vehicle and while my plan was to sell/trade in my Dodge Ram to get a good down payment for a newer vehicle that is more family friendly. But I think once I get Clifford the Big Red Moose running and driving well I will turn my attention to freshen up the Dodge to keep for now until rates don't suck.

The idea of pulling the engine out to make it easier was because of how much I have to remove to get out the core support (rusted out where one side bolts to the frame) Stands are not expensive and I have access to a hoist. Thats why I thought of a refresh kit. I have worded it wrong but with the age of the hoses and seals, plus a valve cover leaking, I was hoping there was a kit that maybe had those. Like I have seen engine wiring harness kits meant to replace aging wires. Not a full breakdown. That was my bad with my wording and example. Like I was able to get a full hose kit for coolant system.

I don't plan on selling this. This was intended as a running project though but surprises happen. Its more or less my dream truck with its size and mine (6'5"). Even with my height I struggle with some cars.

Also my deadline is mine alone, not my parents. If needed I can run into November since I will have several breaks that month. If I had a garage I would have broken it all down anyways like my Dads new 77 (?) Yahama Motorcycle that he bought because it was the same year, make, and model as his first and the one he had when he met my mom. First time she went to his place it was broken down in the living room and dining table.

I plan on using this to do the Transcontinental Coast to Coast mostly offroad trails and even road trip to camp one night above the artic circle. And my fiancé (who doesn't like proper camping) has already agreed that she would go (or fly in for last legs) if I get it solid enough. My next big project over Christmas is probably to swap in a 05 D60 in the front with the new hub units (forgot what they are called) that let me still use my old school rims to match the back. I know its a replacement kit and not a offset or adapter.

Feel free to ask additional questions. I am at work so do not have access to my notebook where I track what I have done. So questions help me recall what I have done and I know I won't always answer all parts of a question sometimes. I do not mind being reminded. I try to emphasize to my students to contact me when they have questions and it wont be held against them like some teachers.

 

I would focus your attention on why the engine does not run. Jumping to a 'rebuild' [I hate that term because it's used too often for something you are not doing], may fix your problem, but usually it tends to be a massive money/time loss.

As mentioned above, buying a 'rebuild' kit and not knowing your block is any good is foolish. I waited months to confirm my block was worth building. It was and only after that information did I buy any part.

 

I have also come to terms with this being 1000% a passion project. So I do not mind putting things in that may be considered silly but will still work great. But the goal is a somewhat stock look outside and even glancing inside but behind the scenes its different. Like at some point I will need a roof rack and I will probably try and build my own. But I want to integrate the roof rack into the roll cage to same some space for my head.

 

My daily driver is a 1981 VW Pickup, I also have a mint 91 VW Cabriolet, I tow my 2020 5th wheel with my 95 F250. I can afford to buy new cars. I totally understand passion and wasting money to keep these things on the road. I also ride a bicycle that is $14k. All of it is a waste of money.....so I totally understand passion projects.

 

Silly? I'm sure there are other terms to use.

Passion doesn't protect your wallet from poor planning.
Poor planning just extends the time line of the project.
Repeat, and the project will not be complete, ever.

Learn from others mistakes, plan first, buy what you need, build it once.
Then move on to another project.

 

You will need to either measure your self, or get the block and heads into a machine shop to be measured before you can order any type of parts for it or a rebuild kit.

The bearings and cyl bores will need to be measured, possibly bored. It’s also possible the engine has been rebuilt in the past, and is already at or beyond its limits.

If no machine shop, you’ll be on your own to measure and ensure the correct bearings and rings are used.

If using a machine shop, the machinist will tell you what bearings and rings size is required when he is finished. Then, you can order the parts / rebuild kit.

Summit has a big selection as well.

As above, Imo, no point rebuilding anything until you get it running / sorted out why it won’t run first.

Good luck with it.

 

My newest road bike is a 1986 Miyata 710, although I have several others... I still ride the '75 Fuji S-10S that I bought new in Oct '76 as a scratched floor model.. That one I rode over 35k miles in its first few years 1976-1980... I also have a pair of 1984 Univegas (built in same factory as Miyata), a Viva Sport (upgraded by me to same-year Miyata 710 specs) and a Gran Tourismo (think Miyata 610 touring bike)... I still can still commute 12.5 miles on the Miyata 710 at a riding speed of over 21mph The average gets dropped to ~18mph counting time stopped at traffic lights - The 12.5 miles is somewhere between 42-43 minutes. Not bad for a 65+ year-old man!!!

Other things in the stable-
'66 Comet Caliente 34k miles
'70 Mach 1 351C-4V auto (wife's car when we met) 23k miles
2x '73 Cougar XR-7 351C-4V both ~75k miles
'89 Crown Vic LX now with 600+hp 395W fun sleeper!
'95 F250 7.5L
'00 Marquis GS (MIL's car when she got put in home) 21k miles
'04 Crown Vic Sport-- bucket seats/console/floor shift - think 'poor man's Marauder'
'05 Town Car wife's current daily
'17 Taurus SEL my daily
PLUS
18' open car hauling trailer
26' enclosed trailer