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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Ordered 2026 6.7 HO....

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Old Sep 3, 2025 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
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Ordered 2026 6.7 HO....

What is the best practice, wait until warranty is about up to install bypass oil filtration and replace CP4 fuel pump or just do it right upon delivery??
 
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 04:58 AM
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Congrats on the new truck... truthfully, it was me and knowing what I know now, I'd do a disaster prevention kit (cheaper up front at $400) and if the CP4 blows, you will save the rest of the fuel system which may or may not be warrantied by Ford, depending on what took out the CP4. I have run fuel additives religiously since new and many here have different opinions on this, just like with engine oil. It would be cheaper to just replace the pump then have to replace the entire fuel system OR, if it's financially possible, you could go with the DCR right off the bat. You plan on running any fuel additives?

As to the oil bypass kit, why wait? Do it right from new. This way, it will prevent wear right from the get-go. What kit you going with?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 07:39 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion.
In all my previous diesel SD's I ran Opti-Lube, not sure if there is much difference between them all, they just seemed to be the one with the most data at the time....so unless there are better options that is what I will stay with.
Regarding the bypass kit, not sure as there are several out there, I need to deep dive the differences a bit more, but leaning towards FS2500 as they have been around a long time, but I do want to look at BulletProof and Insane Diesel.
Open to suggestions from those who have been down this road already.

V/R
 
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 08:11 AM
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Do NOT recommend Filtration Solutions ANYMORE

Originally Posted by coriolis2k
Thanks for the suggestion.
In all my previous diesel SD's I ran Opti-Lube, not sure if there is much difference between them all, they just seemed to be the one with the most data at the time....so unless there are better options that is what I will stay with.
Regarding the bypass kit, not sure as there are several out there, I need to deep dive the differences a bit more, but leaning towards FS2500 as they have been around a long time, but I do want to look at BulletProof and Insane Diesel.
Open to suggestions from those who have been down this road already.

V/R
I have to recommend against the FS2500 even though I have one but will be replacing it with a Dieselcraft OC25 centrifugal bypass filter. See my thread on "The Overkill method of bypass filtration..."

Prior to me recently ordering the OC25, I had ordered two of their spin on filters, not cheap at $69.75, with $30ish shipping. I have been leaving messages on their website which have gone unanswered and just left a message on Randy's wife's voice mail the other day and still have not received any communication from them. I want a refund and have not received any info on when it will ship or anything else.

They used to answer the phone all the time back when, so have no idea what is going but this is completely unacceptable...

Do yourself a favor and Google Filtration Solutions Inc and you will see the latest BAD reviews.

I ordered those filters on August 4th and have gotten zero notice from their company.


 

Last edited by Overkill2; Sep 4, 2025 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Add to post/again
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 08:26 AM
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https://www.google.com/search?sca_es...PooWfqA8#ebo=1
 
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 11:12 AM
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I've owned and put a lot of miles on 6.7 since they came out in the summer of 2010. 155k on my 2011 truck, 100k on a 2015, 2017 and 2020 and 63k on my current 2023 truck.
I've never had CP4 issue. I'm in construction and see subs driving these trucks, sometimes 70 men a day on a job site. A lot of Fords in that group. And I only know of one truck that lost it's CP4. That fellow was a project managers for a large excavation company and his CP4 went out at 110,000 miles and he told me he had NEVER changed the fuel filter and he blamed the failure on that.

My plumber has a 2017 truck with over 300,000 miles still running the original CP4. He's replaced brakes, shocks, front hubs, track bar. but still running stock CP4.
I see too many of these trucks that just run and run if you take care of them.

If you have a new 26. realize there have been a few modifications to improve the CP4 over the past 15 years. It's not the same fuel pump we saw in 2011 or even 2017. So your risk should be less than folks with older trucks.

To each their own. A lot of it depends on the fuel you buy and your maintenance. But it seems that if you buy fuel from volume fuel stations, Don't use fuel from back yard tanks, Drain your water seperator if you live in a high humidity area. Be careful to not let fuel gel. Especially if you live in areas that don't winterize fuel at the pump and get caught in a cold snap in the south, your chances of CP4 failure are pretty small.

I do run Opti-Lube in my trucks. Opti-Lube XPD in the cold months ( Dec-Feb) and Opti-Lube " Summer" in the warmer months. The Summer product is more cost effective if all you want it more lubrication and increase Cetane. I live in Utah, So it's a very dry climate, so I don't have condensation from Humidity to deal with. rare to find any water or alge in the fuel. I buy fuel and DEF at the pump, So I'm usually buying fuel from new stations that have installed DEF at the pump and they move enough fuel to keep it all fresh. The refineries in our area winterize diesel fuel beginning Oct 1st and run thru March 31st. Which probably covers almost all chances of Gelling. But I add XPD during the coldest months just in case. ( my truck often sits all day at ski resort in 0°-10° temps).

It's your money,do as you please. But if I had a new truck, I wouldn't be tearing into it to change out a fuel pump until the warranty was over. I'd be more worried about letting somebody drive it and they put gas or DEF in the fuel tank. I'd be careful about adding additives during cold weather to remove Gelled up fuel lines ( ie Diesel 911 or products that supposedly disolve gelled fuel) , Any alcohol product lacks lubrication and can hurt the fuel pump) Definitely don't try and start a truck with gelled fuel lines where you starve the pump . The CP4 uses fuel to lubricate, and if you starve the pump, you loose lubrication. ( same problem with clogged fuel filters that might starve the pump).

Congrats on the truck, I hope you enjoy it.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 12:21 PM
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My vote is not to modify a truck with warranty
 
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 12:56 PM
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Yep... "modified" my 16 with warranty with a FS2500, S&B CAI and a S&S Gen 2 DPK...

But I get it... everyone's MMV and every body got one. An opinion that is...

And if I buy a new one or one for my son, I'll do the same...

Another thing to keep in mind, don't think the mods are as bad as guys think and more importantly, taking a new truck with a DPK and a bypass to the dealer for an oil change is important than thinking the above items are bad. Sure receipts are one thing, but having them documented at the dealer is more than likely key.

I had the first few oil changes done at the dealer than started doing them myself. That's what I think... i could be wrong.
 

Last edited by Overkill2; Sep 4, 2025 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Add to post
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 03:44 PM
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I would not give a manufacturer to refuse warranty work because of a mod. My 2 cents. Enjoy your new truck in good health. Hope she serves you well.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2025 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by FishOnOne
My vote is not to modify a truck with warranty

I generally agree with that.

I have a different opinion on “loop hole warranties” where ford can decide for reasons within ford’s control the ford won’t warranty a repair.


example….ford won’t cover a cp4 repair if fuel rail sensors show rust…the fuel rail sensor are made of cheap pot metal and ford built the water trap system and the water detection system…logs will show no water in fuel events and no water in the fuel trap.. but the cheap pot metal has rust and thus warranty is denied.

my opinion of course ..based on that…a DPK went in as soon as i drove my new truck home.

but I can turn a wrench and would not be afraid to replace a failed cp4 with a dcr.

 
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Old Sep 12, 2025 | 08:53 PM
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Just did my 1st oil change at 2500 miles, I plan to install bypass filter and DPK on next oil change at 7500. The DCR is new and relatively untested on a large scale for any length of time. It’s marketed as a solution, but is it? We won’t know for years and it’ll prob never be installed in enough trucks to ever know if a difference exists


.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2025 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by UFG8RMIKE
Just did my 1st oil change at 2500 miles, I plan to install bypass filter and DPK on next oil change at 7500. The DCR is new and relatively untested on a large scale for any length of time. It’s marketed as a solution, but is it? We won’t know for years and it’ll prob never be installed in enough trucks to ever know if a difference exists


.
What bypass kit are you installing? Whatever you do, do not order a Filtration Solutions FS2500...

As to the DCR, did you see the video where one of the test trucks had been getting bad fuel, water laden, appeared to be on a regular basis and the DCR just kept humming along?
 

Last edited by Overkill2; Sep 13, 2025 at 01:20 PM. Reason: add to post
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 11:46 AM
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I “DCR’d mine as the warranty was about to expire. It’s not a DD and I use it to strictly haul my boat and truck camper. I didn’t want to have the pump fail while out of town and for the most part that was the reason I swapped the pump out.

That being said if I was to order a new one or buy a new on, in my case I would swap the pump out ASAP.

You’re driving habits may not put you in a position where you’re out of town with your boat behind you or out in Utah flat towing on a bronco.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2025 | 06:47 AM
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I am for sure going to go with the S&S DCR Pump Conversion, just one the fence as to doing it at truck delivery or waiting until warranty is up.
I have also been looking at the FASS EGR filter, but I don't see a solution for the 2026 F350 yet.
 
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