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At a roadblock I’ve got a 1994 f150 5.0 5spd that starts runs great but bogs under full throttle or at any rpm driving unless eased to rpm. I’ve done new tps new fuel filter new coil new plugs wires new fuel regulator gutted the cat the truck has headers from when I bought it so smog isn’t hooked up or egr I’ve tested fuel pressure and it’s good but the truck runs rich or doesn’t burn the fuel well and will bog and almost hold whatever rpm it was at and backfire through exhaust and intake but all 8 plugs foul evenly the truck puffs black smoke but the only time I’ve got it to run great and even spin wheels under throttle is after I forgot I had the eec jumped to check engine codes and it ran perfect under load and full throttle so are we thinking computer or what?
At a roadblock I’ve got a 1994 f150 5.0 5spd …the truck has headers…..I’ve tested fuel pressure and it’s good
Is there an oxygen sensor and is it plugged in? Have you or did you ever check for Key On Engine Off (KOEO) fault codes or did you keep throwing your wallet at it? I have a fuel pressure gauge and there is no “good” mark anywhere on it so what pressures do you have with and without the vacuum line attached?
I know with the Tweecer program that at some point, once the EEC-IV sees a certain throttle opening, it should ignore the O2 sensor signal. If it is indeed bogging at full throttle, it's probably not the O2 sensor. On the other hand, it's too easy to just to unplug it and see what happens.
Great point on the test spec 'Good'. It's used all too often and when I was the Shop Foreman and the tech told me it was 'Good' I instantly knew the test was not done. I once had a tech tell me the coil was bad. I asked him how did he know that. 'I just know'. I had him hold the coil wire and I was going to crank over the engine. He jumped back and yelled 'No! It might just come back to life!'. The guys around me all laughed. I don't recall what the real problem was, but the car left with the same ignition coil.
If it is indeed bogging at full throttle, it's probably not the O2 sensor. On the other hand, it's too easy to just to unplug it and see what happens.
See… I was wondering if there was a sensor installed with the new exhaust system and you know that there is. If there is no sensor then it could definitely be a problem with overfueling.
See… I was wondering if there was a sensor installed with the new exhaust system and you know that there is. If there is no sensor then it could definitely be a problem with overfueling.
the way I'm reading the op post is that the cat us gutted. Which makes me thing that is has shorties to the original y pipe and cat. So it SHOULD have the O2 sensor unless it was removed or not hooles up. But on the other hand, he says it has no Smog equipment.
I guess with the 302 you may need a square head plug fitting with some thread tape (similar to what is pictured at this hyperlink) to cap off where the EGR pipe threads into the intake manifold, but the plug itself would have to be the same thread pitch as the EGR pipe threads at that point.
I know with the Tweecer program that at some point, once the EEC-IV sees a certain throttle opening, it should ignore the O2 sensor signal. If it is indeed bogging at full throttle, it's probably not the O2 sensor. On the other hand, it's too easy to just to unplug it and see what happens.
Great point on the test spec 'Good'. It's used all too often and when I was the Shop Foreman and the tech told me it was 'Good' I instantly knew the test was not done. I once had a tech tell me the coil was bad. I asked him how did he know that. 'I just know'. I had him hold the coil wire and I was going to crank over the engine. He jumped back and yelled 'No! It might just come back to life!'. The guys around me all laughed. I don't recall what the real problem was, but the car left with the same ignition coil.
the truck does have an o2 it runs the same plugged and unplugged it seems the problems are almost getting worse I haven’t been able to get it to run right I’m almost wondering what if it’s a fuel return line or some stupid **** but it’s still blowing black smoke I’ve re timed the engine and completely drained the computer touching both terminals together I’m gonna make a egr block off plate and order the truck sensor plug and see where it goes I really don’t want to switch to carb just for the sole reason of drivability
order the truck sensor plug and see where it goes I really don’t want to switch to carb just for the sole reason of drivability
Waste of time and money.
At idle and WOT, the computer is in closed loop.
At part throttle, its open loop and uses the O2 sensor as feed back.
Why did you change all this: new tps new fuel filter new coil new plugs wires new fuel regulator gutted the cat ?
Did you replace with motorcraft parts?
Is the TPS adjusted correctly, or did you just put it on?
Was the problem there before, or after you changed parts?
Did the problem happen suddenly or slowly?
To me, sounds like timing, running rich is fuel.
Is your fuel regulator working? What is the pressure at idle, and when driving?
Do you have any exhaust leaks?
If the cat is gutted, does it leak?
Probably crap aftermarket coil and plug wires, bad spark, and or cross fire/incorrect firing order on the plugs.
You don't notice at idle, but as soon as you put your foot into it major misfire coming out exhaust and intake.
Or you engine timing chain is completely stretched or jumped a tooth.
Doesn't spin the tires anymore, you probably have worn out the engine.
Mine had a fall on its face at tip in, finally got bad enough, that 4 injectors were bad, watching A/F go really lean(17.3), 8 new ones and all is good in never, never, land again.
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