When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got a truck here from a friend after they let some nitwit touch it... it originally had a wiring issue my from understanding, and i think i found that problem, the ignition module run and start wires were crossed at the two point connector, but then for reasons beyond me her friend wired the ignition coil to the voltage regulator and somehow made the truck run like this and they snapped the timing chain(replaced)
the ignition coil still has spark somehow, but the second winding has pretty low resistance(dont know how to accurately read a multimeter)
could it be that this is the wrong module or did it get wired wrong.
Got a truck here from a friend after they let some nitwit touch it... it originally had a wiring issue my from understanding, and i think i found that problem, the ignition module run and start wires were crossed at the two point connector, but then for reasons beyond me her friend wired the ignition coil to the voltage regulator and somehow made the truck run like this and they snapped the timing chain(replaced)
the ignition coil still has spark somehow, but the second winding has pretty low resistance(dont know how to accurately read a multimeter)
could it be that this is the wrong module or did it get wired wrong.
The red and white wires swapping in the connector you are holding is a normal thing, weird but normal.
The truck will run as long as the coil has power to the coil positive.
I your case, someone used the Key ON power from the voltage regulator as a power source for the coil. Are you using a stock round coil with the push ON horseshoe shaped connector?
With your current wiring you are running full voltage to the coil positive, Bypassing the resistor wire.
Jim
The red and white wires swapping in the connector you are holding is a normal thing, weird but normal.
The truck will run as long as the coil has power to the coil positive.
I your case, someone used the Key ON power from the voltage regulator as a power source for the coil. Are you using a stock round coil with the push ON horseshoe shaped connector?
With your current wiring you are running full voltage to the coil positive, Bypassing the resistor wire.
Jim
Yeah its a cylindrical coil that you put two horseshoes on, i completely undid the regulator deal because as far as i am aware a coil doesnt need a constant 12v running to it, plus they had a points condensor attached to the regulator for some reason, and the wires from the regulator, module, and coil were twisted together very sloppily. Right now i am trying to get spark to the hoses and if you say that is normal for the module to cross then my next guess will be the distributor
Yeah its a cylindrical coil that you put two horseshoes on, i completely undid the regulator deal because as far as i am aware a coil doesnt need a constant 12v running to it, plus they had a points condensor attached to the regulator for some reason, and the wires from the regulator, module, and coil were twisted together very sloppily. Right now i am trying to get spark to the hoses and if you say that is normal for the module to cross then my next guess will be the distributor
The condenser/capacitor near the voltage regulator is used as noise suppression for the AM band of the radio, not really needed in the modern world.
Reconnect everything in a stock configuration, ready to run. Turn the key ON.
Check the voltage at the coil positive, it should be around 6-8 volts and the coil should get warm.
This will verify the primary ingition circuit is intact and the ignition module is powered ON.
Jim
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
