I changed out the sending unit about 2 weeks ago. Worked ok until today. I tested and the guage is fine
Are the all this crappy? Does anyone make one that will last?

 

How did you test the gauge? Remove the sending unit and test it with your OHM meter. It should read 60-86 ohms empty, 8-12 ohms full. The gauges have to be tested with the ICVR you are using and with a 10 ohm and 75 ohm resistor used in place of the sending units. Grounding the sender wire proves nothing and can damage the gauge. All the gauges use the same resistance only the faces are different to depict what they are measuring.

 

ICVR? Meaning please.

 

Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator - ( I think that’s correct) Anyway, it’s a voltage regulator that limits/reduces the voltage going to the gauges, since they don’t want a full 12 volts.

 

Got it. I always thought they called them constant voltage regulators, 5v as I recall.

 

As usual, I frequently get things partially correct. You’re right, it’s likely “Instrument Constant Voltage Regulator”.

 

Where can I find a new one?

 

Pretty sure Dennis Carpenter, and most of the vendors for our tru is carry aftermarket ones. Like all reproduced electrical items, though, I don’t trust em, likely Chinese-made, with inconsistent quality. You might find an NOS one on eBay or on RearCounter.

Note: this should be a good number for a genuine Ford par: B9MZ-10804-C
There are plenty available NOS on eBay.

 

I’m running into the same problem with a turn signal switch. One wire fell right out before I even got to test it. I repaired it, but now that I am able to test it, it doesn’t stay in either direction. I may have bought on DC, but I can’t swear to it. I’m going to have to pull the steering wheel off and see if I can solve the problem. I wouldn’t mind finding a NOS, but don’t know the part number.

 

You're both right. Well Steve was until he changed his original answer.

In the parts catalog they consistently refer to them as

B9MF-10804-A - REGULATOR ASSY. - INSTRUMENT CLUSTER VOLTAGE



And in the service manual they refer to them as Constant Voltage Regulator or Gauge Voltage Regulator.



No matter what you call it I'd personally sway toward a modern solid-state device. The drawing in the manual alludes to how the originals work - the coil inside heats up causing the contacts to make - but once they do, they immediately break. They receive 12 volts but to get down to the 5 needed it is trying to make and break the circuit constantly using timing so that it 'appears' to the gauges like they are receiving roughly 5 volts. Sorta kinda works but I find NOS originals all the time that simply do not work at all or do not work correctly. Pretty sure @Crop Duster would agree with me that solid-state is actually the better alternative these days. I was even thinking about making my own solid-state circuit design that I could fit inside of the original shell.

It's a bit like points ignition versus Pertronix. One is old school, and one is more refined. Less moving parts, less maintenance.

 

Unibody, by most accounts, one aftermarket supplier of TS switches makes very good stuff, even if it is Chinese made. Shee-Mar.

https://shee-mar.com

 

1961/62 F100/250 2WD trucks used a different switch than all other years.

C0DZ-13341-A - SWITCH and MOUNTING PLATE - TURN INDICATOR (Marked FEK-14486-A)



They are reproduced since the car line used the same switch in those years. Also some available NOS that are not priced too bad. In this case I'd go NOS but a good reproduction probably fine, too. Shee-Mar has a good rep as far as I've heard.

C0dz-13341-A for sale | eBay

You can also search on

CODZ-13341-A - with an 'O' instead of a zero. People often make that mistake thinking the first quadrant is all letters.

 

The web page linked to RA for a full catalog. For my truck, no turn signal switch listing. However on eBay, there is a NOS available. Certainly not like the original, it’s plastic and looks very close to the aftermarket I had purchased. Not sure I would go with that particular one. Now that I know the part number, I’ll keep my eye out for one

 

Yes, quite often Ford had slightly different parts - especially over time - for the service replacements compared to the factory assembly line parts they used. Not always but definitely true. Plastic isn't always bad - it's resistance to corrosion makes it a great choice for many applications. And it holds up fairly well for a decade or so if conditions are not too extreme. Once 10 years is up a lot of car makers stop stocking parts for them - at least that was common back in the day - it seems they have a longer shelf life these days. Also, may have been less expensive to switch to the plastic housing. They were good at counting pennies.

 

I do concur with @TA455HO the solid-state regulators are better and a bit cheaper. The only difference you will see is with the original type of regulator the gauges will on startup react a little faster since the original type will send a full 12V to the gauge until it heats up. After that no difference.