Power window problems
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
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From: Here, there, and everywhe
Power window problems
94 Aero
Driver window is down, will not roll up. Pass window works well. Both using driver switches. Maybe driver window door switch bad?
Are there two fuses for windows, one left and one right, or is there only one fuse for both? Where are the fuse(s) located?
If it is not a fuse, what is the best way to diagnose the problem?
Driver window is down, will not roll up. Pass window works well. Both using driver switches. Maybe driver window door switch bad?
Are there two fuses for windows, one left and one right, or is there only one fuse for both? Where are the fuse(s) located?
If it is not a fuse, what is the best way to diagnose the problem?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,010
Likes: 203
From: SoCal
There are a couple of possibilities.
Switch may be worn out. If you can get to it, pull off the connector and use an ohmmeter on the switch terminals to see if switch actuations make connections. Then make a jumper to short out the (correct) terminals on the switch socket to see if that activates the motor.
The window motor may be worn out, and just needs to be replaced. Usually the driver's side gets used a lot more than the passenger side.
Switch may be worn out. If you can get to it, pull off the connector and use an ohmmeter on the switch terminals to see if switch actuations make connections. Then make a jumper to short out the (correct) terminals on the switch socket to see if that activates the motor.
The window motor may be worn out, and just needs to be replaced. Usually the driver's side gets used a lot more than the passenger side.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
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From: Here, there, and everywhe
I was in process of diagnosing the problem, but before I determined a cause, everything started working again. For now going to watch. When I get a bit of spare money I will replace the switches since everything else seems to be ok
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 402
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And then it suddenly won't work.
Been there.
Tip to xlt4wd90, 3 possibilities ( switch, motor, wires).
Over the years, I've tried several switches and a tin'ing of wire ends.
My very recent fix was a new motor, Cardone 82-31, part number for driver side regardless of the misinformation out there.
Much more robust motor than stock.
Been there.
Tip to xlt4wd90, 3 possibilities ( switch, motor, wires).
Over the years, I've tried several switches and a tin'ing of wire ends.
My very recent fix was a new motor, Cardone 82-31, part number for driver side regardless of the misinformation out there.
Much more robust motor than stock.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,010
Likes: 203
From: SoCal
I thought about wiring as well, but that usually hits the passenger side first. The driver side window only needs power, and does not have to run long wires through two doors, so it's much less likely to break from too many cycles of door openings and closings.
If both windows don't work, then I would suspect the power wire going to the switch.
If both windows don't work, then I would suspect the power wire going to the switch.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 402
Likes: 16
Just to be clear, the wiring problem is at ANY wire end, where Ford crimped to naked copper as on my '89 (& other years).
Oxidation then breeds gremlins, especially in high current applications such as a window motor.
Backgrounder link to my fix, years ago
Typical lug at window switch, crimped to naked copper.
****
Pic Cardone left 82-31 vs original stye (regardless of description misinformation at Rock)
Pic Cardone right 82-32
Oxidation then breeds gremlins, especially in high current applications such as a window motor.
Backgrounder link to my fix, years ago
Typical lug at window switch, crimped to naked copper.
****
Pic Cardone left 82-31 vs original stye (regardless of description misinformation at Rock)
Pic Cardone right 82-32
Last edited by RojoStar; Aug 17, 2025 at 04:55 AM. Reason: More pics
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,010
Likes: 203
From: SoCal
When I was working at Ford, one of the things I saw being done with wiring harnesses was they used special grease guns to shoot grease into the pins at the ends of wires to prevent ingress of moisture. That may have been for critical electronics, like the EEC connectors. Now they use rubber dams with the tight-fitting holes.
One thing I've experienced with wiring in doors is when the window seal is compromised and water gets into the doors. Then all wiring becomes vulnerable to moisture. I guess these are not considered "critical", as they're not as protected as EEC wiring.
One thing I've experienced with wiring in doors is when the window seal is compromised and water gets into the doors. Then all wiring becomes vulnerable to moisture. I guess these are not considered "critical", as they're not as protected as EEC wiring.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
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From: Here, there, and everywhe
As expected only temp working. Weird wiring setup, so cannot proceed without wiring diagram. Best I can tell without a wiring diagram, there are three hot wires going to switch cluster, one for each side window motors and one for door locks. So, where do I find a wiring diagram for 94 Aero?
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 402
Likes: 16
If we can agree that the way forward is to 1) change out the window motor and to 2) hit the crimped lugs with solder, then you will not need the wiring diagram to know what the wires do.
However, just for you my friend, I have lifted a very nice diagram out of a '93 Ranger shop manual on my shelf, identical in architecture to my '89 and likely your '94, only differing in a few wire colors.
BLack is still GND and LB/BK is still (ign switched) power.
Pic wiring diagram...
However, just for you my friend, I have lifted a very nice diagram out of a '93 Ranger shop manual on my shelf, identical in architecture to my '89 and likely your '94, only differing in a few wire colors.
BLack is still GND and LB/BK is still (ign switched) power.
Pic wiring diagram...
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
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From: Here, there, and everywhe
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 54
Likes: 8
From: Here, there, and everywhe
Took me two days before I understood exactly what the diagram was telling me. It was way beyond me until I had a DUH moment. I was looking at it from an AC standpoint instead of DC. Talk about dumb.
Once I understood what the diagram was telling me, it was simple to isolate the problem. A bad switch. Motor and wiring are fine. Window now rolled up waiting for the new switch to arrive.
Without the diagram and my DUH moment, I would probably still be banging my head against the wall.
Note to future readers. Wiring colors on diagram posted above do not match Aerostar colors, but everything else is correct.
Once I understood what the diagram was telling me, it was simple to isolate the problem. A bad switch. Motor and wiring are fine. Window now rolled up waiting for the new switch to arrive.
Without the diagram and my DUH moment, I would probably still be banging my head against the wall.
Note to future readers. Wiring colors on diagram posted above do not match Aerostar colors, but everything else is correct.
Trailering
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 16
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From: Laramie,WY.
One problem that causes the window to go down but not up. The 3 plastic plugs are basically toast. Inside the housing where the gear is are 3 plastic 3/4" rods about 1/2" long. They just wear out. They are available and replaceable. I had to replace them in all 4 motors in my wife's 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis.
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2023
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xlt4WD 90
I have the same problem on a '97 F150
Driver's side window is up and won't move; passenger side okay.
Driver's side stopped working after switches grouped on the driver's left arm rest got pretty wet from leaving the window down this summer. It didn't begin working again after it dried out.
Should I suspect blown fuse as a result of getting wet before trying what you suggested to mmerlinn? If so, is the fuse under the hood or above driver's left leg?
If not a fuse, I have an multimeter and can do what you suggested but would like to know, is the connector you mention behind the door panel? Yes, definitely a newbie to this stuff. Understand what a 'jumper' is but don't quite follow "to short out the correct terminals on the switch socket".
Please, can you dumb that directive down?
I have the same problem on a '97 F150
Driver's side window is up and won't move; passenger side okay.
Driver's side stopped working after switches grouped on the driver's left arm rest got pretty wet from leaving the window down this summer. It didn't begin working again after it dried out.
Should I suspect blown fuse as a result of getting wet before trying what you suggested to mmerlinn? If so, is the fuse under the hood or above driver's left leg?
If not a fuse, I have an multimeter and can do what you suggested but would like to know, is the connector you mention behind the door panel? Yes, definitely a newbie to this stuff. Understand what a 'jumper' is but don't quite follow "to short out the correct terminals on the switch socket".
Please, can you dumb that directive down?
Last edited by dignity; Oct 3, 2025 at 09:11 PM. Reason: Make it reply to someone
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,010
Likes: 203
From: SoCal
You might want to post the question on one of the F150 forums, as the only information I have are for the Aerostar.
In my 1990 Aerostar, the fuse box is under the dash, above my left knee. The window motor switches are fed by a light blue wire with black stripe, coming from fuse 14 (20A). This is the power source. The window motor on the driver's side has yellow wire on one side and white with black stripe on the other side. There is also a black ground wire coming out of the switch. The window switch would switch the power and ground wires between the two motor wires; one connection set for turning the motor in one direction, and reversed for turning the motor the other direction.
You will need to find the equivalent wires on your truck, which may have different colors, and jump between the power/ground wires to the motor wires to see if that actuates the motor.
In your case, my guess is the motor is fine, but the switch is corroded from getting wet. You can either try to disassemble it and clean it out, or just replace it.
In my 1990 Aerostar, the fuse box is under the dash, above my left knee. The window motor switches are fed by a light blue wire with black stripe, coming from fuse 14 (20A). This is the power source. The window motor on the driver's side has yellow wire on one side and white with black stripe on the other side. There is also a black ground wire coming out of the switch. The window switch would switch the power and ground wires between the two motor wires; one connection set for turning the motor in one direction, and reversed for turning the motor the other direction.
You will need to find the equivalent wires on your truck, which may have different colors, and jump between the power/ground wires to the motor wires to see if that actuates the motor.
In your case, my guess is the motor is fine, but the switch is corroded from getting wet. You can either try to disassemble it and clean it out, or just replace it.
Last edited by xlt4wd90; Oct 4, 2025 at 06:11 PM.
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