glow plug woes
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Take one of the g.p.'s which you've pulled. Look closely at the area between the hex facets and the bullet-style connector. Do you see the hard rubber grommet/washer? It is responsible for bringing the g.p. core out when you ratchet the g.p. body. Apparently, your grommet was heat damage enough to give way and allow the body to slip past it, as the body was threaded out.
the bullet style connector simply came off the core. It looks like it is machine pressed on to the core. the washers (there are two, a big one and a small one) came off as well. Either the tip is swollen, so that the core wouldn't come off when I started racheting it up and I broke the glow plug in the process, or the glow pulg was really weakened when I began to remove it, and the only thing that is holding the core in there is some carbon build up.
It sounds like the method you suggests assume that the bullet style connector is still on the core. Right?
the bullet style connector simply came off the core. It looks like it is machine pressed on to the core. the washers (there are two, a big one and a small one) came off as well. Either the tip is swollen, so that the core wouldn't come off when I started racheting it up and I broke the glow plug in the process, or the glow pulg was really weakened when I began to remove it, and the only thing that is holding the core in there is some carbon build up.
It sounds like the method you suggests assume that the bullet style connector is still on the core. Right?
Last edited by sfield; Dec 11, 2003 at 02:30 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
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From: Alabama Gulf Coast
"It sounds like the method you suggests assume that the bullet style connector is still on the core. Right?"
Yeah, I thought I understood you to say the core's bullet-style connector was still attached to the rest of the core (glow tube).
R.A.
Yeah, I thought I understood you to say the core's bullet-style connector was still attached to the rest of the core (glow tube).R.A.
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victory!
I removed the trouble g.p. tonight. I was lucky. Last night I re-inserted the threaded cover back into the g.p. hole. Tonight, when I was removing it to examine what was left of the glow plug, the heating tube came out with it. The tip looks fine, zero distortion. It will have to be replaced of course.
thanks r.a. for your helpful advice. I'll let you know if and when I get the g.p. system back on-line!
Sam
I removed the trouble g.p. tonight. I was lucky. Last night I re-inserted the threaded cover back into the g.p. hole. Tonight, when I was removing it to examine what was left of the glow plug, the heating tube came out with it. The tip looks fine, zero distortion. It will have to be replaced of course.
thanks r.a. for your helpful advice. I'll let you know if and when I get the g.p. system back on-line!
Sam
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Alabama Gulf Coast
Dang Sam,
I was just about to fire off a post regarding finding #1 TDC! Guess it serves me right for helping to put you through the worry you've had over the last 24 hours. WHEW! Man, I am just as happy as you!
Did the glow tube have carbon caked on it?
R.A.
I was just about to fire off a post regarding finding #1 TDC! Guess it serves me right for helping to put you through the worry you've had over the last 24 hours. WHEW! Man, I am just as happy as you!
Did the glow tube have carbon caked on it?
R.A.
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I am a little confused about the whole incident to tell you the truth. The bullet connector came off because the cover of the g.p. rotated independently of the heating core, but now the cover seems to be well attached to the heating core. hmmm. Oh well, I don't think you should lose your faith in beru g.ps.
I can't tell if the glow tube has something caked on it, or if it is just pitted and rough up. It looks much like the others. I guess I would describe it as more worn then caked with carbon. There really isn't much to distinguish it from the other except for a missing bullet connector and a strange wear pattern on the threads.
where does one get replacement beru g.p.s. Do ordinary autopart stores carry them?
thanks again!
sam
I can't tell if the glow tube has something caked on it, or if it is just pitted and rough up. It looks much like the others. I guess I would describe it as more worn then caked with carbon. There really isn't much to distinguish it from the other except for a missing bullet connector and a strange wear pattern on the threads.
where does one get replacement beru g.p.s. Do ordinary autopart stores carry them?
thanks again!
sam
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
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From: Alabama Gulf Coast
Yeah, Autozone has 'em.
They carry Motorcraft which is supplied by Beru. Will cost about $9.00 each. Part# should be ZD-9 (Ford's OEM# is F2TZ-12A342-A) but you might want to do a look-up just in case something changed between my 1990 and your 1991.
R.A.
They carry Motorcraft which is supplied by Beru. Will cost about $9.00 each. Part# should be ZD-9 (Ford's OEM# is F2TZ-12A342-A) but you might want to do a look-up just in case something changed between my 1990 and your 1991.
R.A.
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From: Alabama Gulf Coast
sfield,
One more thing I forgot to add. When re-installing the plugs. You,of course, do not use oil or grease to lubricate the threads as this will not only possibly show up as false resistance to the controller but also might make the g.p.'s stick if you want to remove them again.
Although Beru says not to use an anti-sieze compound, The Haynes manual recommends it. But then, I didn't find a procedure to find TDC in a Haynes manual dedicated only to the diesel engines of GM and Ford.
At any rate, I've had great success with Versachem's anti-sieze "Type 13". It has copper flakes in the formula. I just put a small amount around the first few threads closest to the glow tube.
Hope this helps, R.A.
One more thing I forgot to add. When re-installing the plugs. You,of course, do not use oil or grease to lubricate the threads as this will not only possibly show up as false resistance to the controller but also might make the g.p.'s stick if you want to remove them again.
Although Beru says not to use an anti-sieze compound, The Haynes manual recommends it. But then, I didn't find a procedure to find TDC in a Haynes manual dedicated only to the diesel engines of GM and Ford.
At any rate, I've had great success with Versachem's anti-sieze "Type 13". It has copper flakes in the formula. I just put a small amount around the first few threads closest to the glow tube.
Hope this helps, R.A.
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Glow Plug Connectors
This would be a 1993 ford F-series super duty 7.3 liter without turbo. It's model is listed as "COF" it came without a box because it a custom dump box was built for it. It is similar to a Superduty 450-550 as the max GRVW is 15000.
The connectors I need are just the ends that slip on to the glowplug as the wires are fine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The connectors I need are just the ends that slip on to the glowplug as the wires are fine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5
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glow plug voltage
hello, l have a 1992 f 350 4x4 and l put in 8 new glow plugs and a new relay. l am not sure if the voltage is corect going to the glow plugs. l have 4.62 volts when the key is on and 11.61 volts when the relay is on[ l put in a manual switch]. is this the right voltage.l have not tried to start the truck because l might burn out the plugs.Someone told me there should only be about 9 volts going to the plugs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Did you remove the white wire from it's terminal?
The white wire goes to ground to activate the glow plugs.
To comvert to manual, the white wire must be removed and you push button switch is used to supply a ground connection to close the relay.
The white wire goes to ground to activate the glow plugs.
To comvert to manual, the white wire must be removed and you push button switch is used to supply a ground connection to close the relay.
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