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I have a 2002 Ranger 3.0. I need the hose fitting with the red connector. It rusted off where lower radiator bypass hose attaches. Anyone have a source or part number. I would be grateful.
Ah yes... the hard-to-remove Temperature SENDER (not Sensor) elbow... this 1-wire unit supplies data only to the gauge on your dash... elsewhere is the 2-wire ECT SENSOR which provides data to the computer (ECM)... anyway, cheapest source I've found is EBay Motors:
Part # F77Z-18599-AA
PS: what IS the deal with that lower radiator bypass hose? Obviously a portion of the heated coolant joins the cooled flow coming out of the radiator, and goes directly back into the block... can't be for faster warm-up, that's what the thermostat is for...
Ah yes... the hard-to-remove Temperature SENDER (not Sensor) elbow... this 1-wire unit supplies data only to the gauge on your dash... elsewhere is the 2-wire ECT SENSOR which provides data to the computer (ECM)... anyway, cheapest source I've found is EBay Motors:
Part # F77Z-18599-AA
PS: what IS the deal with that lower radiator bypass hose? Obviously a portion of the heated coolant joins the cooled flow coming out of the radiator, and goes directly back into the block... can't be for faster warm-up, that's what the thermostat is for...
thanks for the Part# Dorman had one luckily . The bypass hose goes in under thermostat which would send water directly to the heater core.
Cool, what did they charge you? Do NOT use any pipe-dope or teflon tape beyond the red stuff already on there, as the single-wire operation requires a good electrical GROUND with the block/t-stat housing. Good luck getting the P/S pump and A/C compressor out of the way.
Cool, what did they charge you? Do NOT use any pipe-dope or teflon tape beyond the red stuff already on there, as the single-wire operation requires a good electrical GROUND with the block/t-stat housing. Good luck getting the P/S pump and A/C compressor out of the way.
Amazon had part. It was 26.64 that’s with tax. The hose connection on it had to be shortened about 8mm so it would clear belt tensioner/AC/PS unibracket.
Why does everyone seem to think that cutting off threads is right? Just take the accessories off and do it once without re-engineering a plumbing fitting.
Also, it will get plenty of metal to metal contact with silicone or Teflon all over the threads. When you screw it in the threads will cut through to get metal to metal contact.
If that pipe is corroded badly then you might need to pull the water pump anyway to inspect the impeller.
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