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Ok, looking at getting a leece Neville altinator. I know that there's been tons of discussions on negative impacts on glow plugs, over heating etc.
Potential solution I'm thinking is to put a voltage regulator between the alternator and GPR/GPCM, and then a hot wire between the alternator and positive battery terminal.
Battery will get full voltage/amperage from alt, GPR/GPCM will only get 12 v thru the regulator.
I think you'd need a regulator between the supply wire to the GPR/GPCM and the batteries, not just from the alternator. Interested to see what voltage regulator you use for this. It will have to handle 200A or so for a short duration.
Why do you need the larger alternator - how do you plan to use it?
My alternator of unknown lineage is heading south, since you can't buy a new motorcraft, decided to go with the best I can afford, don't need it today..but next year I might...kinda like my BTS trans, when I need it... I need it.
The wire between the alternator and GPCM looks like a 4 ga wire (good for about 80a), do the GPs really draw 200a?
Sounds like a 6.0 alternator would be a good candidate for you. I have one on mine. There 135 amps and pretty much bolt right up. On some you have to clearance the alternator bracket very slightly at the bottom. Wiring is the same. I got mine off rockauto. A brand new Bosch unit. There $173 on there today part # is al7606n
If you do not plan to add a winch, tons of accessory lights, or a high powered stereo system, a Bosch is probably the best bet IMO. I believe my Bosch has been problem free and strong since around 2012.
I currently run a Mechman 400A alt and I had to send it in late last yr, early this yr, can't recall. Others have not had issues with their mechmans. You obviously know Leece Neville is a solid option as well.
while supposedly not good for the GP's, I don't do anything different with starting procedure and it's been fine for a little over a yr and a half. The only thing I have noticed is the truck doesn't fire up as quickly as it does with the Bosch; it cranks slightly longer before firing up.
They draw almost that much for a few seconds (11V/0.5 ohms x 8 plugs = 176A), then as they heat up, their resistance increases and the current drops.
I'll second the Bosch alternator. I have one now as my upper alternator, and it's extra 25A capacity does not push the voltage too high at idle, yet is a good replacement alternative for the OEM unit.
175 amps would require 3/0 cable, that's bigger than the factory battery cables. Looking at the wire coming off the alternator, looks like 4 gauge wire, which is rated for 85 amps max. We all know the 80 % rule, wire should only carry 80% of max capacity.
175 amps would require 3/0 cable, that's bigger than the factory battery cables. Looking at the wire coming off the alternator, looks like 4 gauge wire, which is rated for 85 amps max. We all know the 80 % rule, wire should only carry 80% of max capacity.
The 80% rule is for continuous operation. Much more current can be drawn for a short duration and infrequent duty cycle without overheating the wire, the shorter the duration of operation and more infrequent the duty cycle, the higher the current can be.
I honestly wouldn't even worry about the glow olug voltage thing. I haven't ever seen one single person that has actually had a issue by it. Just all hearsay. Pretty sure it's even been discussed a few times that when pcm senses voltage to high over a point which I don't remmeber what it was that it shuts the glow plugs off to prevent this.
If the PCM reads higher than expected voltage shortly after start up and the GPR is active, the PCM will cycle the GPR on/off/on/off with state changes about every 2 seconds.
. The only thing I have noticed is the truck doesn't fire up as quickly as it does with the Bosch; it cranks slightly longer before firing up.
