Yeah, now sounds like "right switch wrong truck"?

What year & model Ford pick up are we talking about?

NOS NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH 1967-77 FORD F-100 F-150 F-250 F-350 PICKUP TRUCK STEERING COLUMN-MOUNT (C7TZ-7A247ANOS)

Not there tracing wires, but maybe a PO added a separate toggle switch in the mix .... like maybe to let him toggle the BU lights on with the truck in park to see as Cousin Maphis & he unloaded sugar or loaded up his next delivery at night down by the old tobacco barn?

 

Its a 1973 f100 longbed...other than yanking it out of a barn and finding lots of wires chewed, I didn't really see a lot of non-factory-hack job stuff but maybe.

 

That means if my windshield washer pump works, which it is, then the fuse is good. Can you tell me where the NSS is located, and if it is in the steering column or not? By that, i mean is it under the Turn Signal switch, or down at the bottom of the column like a 79 chevy? I dont see one. I looked at the picture in the link and i cant tell where it goes. My NSS obviously doesnt work because my truck will start in any gear and then take off without ever being in park or N.

Funny you then mention a toggle switch. mine has one under the dash and after 3 months have yet to figure out wtf its for. Maybe i ought to toggle it!

 

I found it in the steering column just above the floor. I cleaned it and it works fine but....
The pin that sticks out of the steering column is sheered off. i ordered one from LMC for $6. hopefully i can snap off the old one and snap on the new one.

 

i'm still fkg with this thing!!! i have the switch in the posts up above my first one. (automatic trans, column mounted). I found the actuating pin at Carpenter and installed it. it wasnt that bad. just needed a small screw driver to pop it out. oh yeah, it did suck, i had to remove the brake pedal to get to it! i also dropped the column. i put it all back together and i still don't have back up lights! i bought a new switch and i STILL dont have any. i have ONE wire that has power to the switch out of the four of them, and only with the key on. The engine will start only in Park and N. (btw that toggle switch controls power to this switch, it's apparently an anti theft sw). My wipers/washer works, therefore, the fuse is good, correct?.

IS THERE ONLY ONE keyed wire to this switch that runs both the starter solenoid AND the backup lights, or is there supposed to be another one just for back up lights??
IF there is only one, then I must have a break between the sw and the lights. If there is supposed to be more, does anybody know where it comes from? It's impossible to put a test light on the connector pins, because if you separate the connector enough to do it it disconnects. If there is only one hot wire to this, i will try to trace it. If not, i need help to find it's source. thanks
BTW, i bought a new switch and it doesnt do anything different than the old one. I also need to know what colors the wire is that goes to the backup lights please. I dont see how there can only be one hot wire going to this switch if there is one to the solenoid and only one to the lights, because that's only 3wires, and there's four on the connector.

 

The BU lights use the Black/Red wires. One is hot anytime when the key is "ON" (maybe "Accessory" too, never tried it that I recall?), the other only gets hot when the NSS switch is moved to "REVERSE" position by the tab to connect it to the other one, thus passing current to the BU LIGHTS.

The START function uses the Red/Blue wires. One is hot Only when the ignition key is turned to "START", the other only gets hot when the NSS switch is moved to "PARK" or "NEUTRAL" position by the tab to connect it to the other one, thus passing current to the START SOLENOID.

This all depends on proper adjustment of the switch. Like already said, it's really two switches built as one controlling two separate power circuits. Inside is a long plunger with contacts that connect the paired wires only in various positions as detailed above.


.

 

So the main thing is that there should be another hot when the key is turned on. Two keyed hots

 

NO, just one black/red wires will be hot if key is just on RUN, (and maybe in ACCESSORY too, .... I meant to try it today, but I forgot, like shift from park into into reverse with the engine off and the key in Accessory),

Just one of the red/blue wires will be hot only when you turn the key all the way to START.

In both cases, that NSS switch will connect that hot to the other same color when you move the shift lever to Park, Reverse, or Neutral.

 

Can you please clarify what color i am looking for that goes to my back up lites? Looking at that switch, I only see where it will connect either both R/bu or both Bl/r, in park or N, i really don't see anywhere on it where it will connect anything in the R position.
From the first reply I see that the second Bk/R wire, that is not they Keyed Hot, goes to the back up lights. I tell you, looking at the picture of that switch, and also looking at the back of the actual switch, i don't see how this F'g thing does what it does

 

It has a cross bar inside the switch mounted in plastic, positioned so it connects the two Blue/red wires when in Park, then it disconnects as it slides by and connects the two Black/red wires in Reverse, then it passes them and disconnects as it connects the contacts for the Blue/red wires again as the shifter is now in Neutral. It still moves as the lever is moved to 3, 2, or 1 but there are then no contacts to connect either pair of wires via the cross bar.

The Black with Red tracer pair of wires are for the Back Up light circuit.
One of them is hot when the key is on.
The other receives power (becomes hot) through this switch only when the shifter is in Reverse.
Is only one lead needed until near the back bumper where is a splice and both back lights get + power.
If properly grounded the back up lights will light up.

It is essential that it be adjusted properly on the collumn, the holes are elongated for the purpose.

More than that would require you to tear one or more open for a closer look.

 

i CANT tell you how much i appreciate that post bra!!! i will sharpen the tip of the test light and stab it thru the other Bk/R wire's insulation and see if the switch is working. it HAS to as i can't possibly have two bad switches!!! i'll have to crawl around and find where that B/r wire is broken. what sucks is it goes over the top of the side gas tank (camper special), and chances are...murphys law. We'll see. Doesnt look like it will rain today!! yeeee ha, can't wait to bust a move!

 

Mine goes out from the cab above the drivers foot and joins in the bundle going back along the driver side frame rail along with brake/signal & tail lights & fuel sender wires. It might go over the side tank, or inside the frame rail behind the tank The other one would come from the fuse block under the dash, fuse #11, is a15 amp fuse.


It is fed by the ignition switch when it is in Accessory or Run.


I used to have a write up on adjusting the NSS but sadly, it's missing. I forget what position you put the trans in to use that hole, but I'll look later.

 

Hey I put the new switch in found the fuse went bad on me mysteriously because up until this morning my turn signals worked. I wrapped the fuse in tin foil and reinserted, I had power to start but now the fuse doesn't work. In fact the whole fuse block under the dash, that only holds 5 fuses, it's DEAD!! Does this come from the headlight switch? I have a new headlight switch here, should I risk it? I'm stuck outside now! There's got to be another fuse box somewhere.
any tricks for pulling out the headlight ****??. I stripped the allen set screw now my fingers are raw from pushing down the button on top of the switch and it won't come out.
ok. Got it out finally and changed the headlight switch. My little fuse box is still dead. What feeds this thing?

 

Only fuse box I know of, it gets power from the ignition switch for some, not all. Headlights / tail lights, marker lights, brake lights are some circuits that will work without a key, as will the horn, the courtesy lights .... but back up lights need the key in on or accessory. Radio needs key in run or accessory. Heater needs the key. Gauges, ignition, starter need key.

You really only have 5 fuses in the box? There is a fusible link coming off the starter relay where the big fat wire from the battery pos is attached, is black / yellow I think.

 

5 fuses are
F-1 heater/ac 30A
F-2 t/s, backup, windshield, washer 14A
F-3 PRNDL lamp, instrument panel 3A
F-4 Dome lamp and glove box lamp. 15A
F-5 emer warnng flasher and stoplamp sw. 20A

My headlights don't work either!! but the horn did when i put a test light on the horn relay.
I'm beat. Just pushed a scooter that was stolen up a steep hill.
The Fuse box wires all come out the top, are all taped up, make a quick U turn, where they are tied to and join another big bundle of wires back towards the back of the dash.. Where the they go i got no idea. In the meantime my truck is stuck in my sister's back yard. I'm going to go watch the Mariners and the Seahawks. I've F'n HAD IT!
i'll try and find it by tomorrow a.m,