When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Think mine is bent, when I was doing my pivot bushing, I noticed the axle sits very twisted in the bracket. VERY twisted. To the point the bushing has crazy force on it and the ears of bracket don't hold it tight. Unbolted the radius arm and the axle straightened out.
Cant find any video anywhere or even write up. I assume I take off shock, coil spring retainer. Bottom bolt. Front two bolts maybe. Do I have to remove the whole coild spring and seat? Guess ill find out but anytips would be great. Have torch, breaker bar, 3ft pipe, 1 1/8 socket, plenty of liquid wrench ready to go
I made the choice to drill the rivets in the radius arm bracket when I replaced my bushings. You'll need some good 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits and an angle grinder to get them where you can hammer them out. Grind the tops flat for those that you can reach. Then 1/4" drill at least to the depth of the frame, followed with the 1/2" until the cap can be knocked off. Then a heavy duty punch to knock the rivet out. Replace with some 1/2" grade 8s (fine thread if you can get them) plus a lock washer and some loc-tite and you're good to go. Grade 5 might actually be good enough, but your call on that.
You don't need to remove rivets or any of that crap if the bracket isn't rusted. Jack the axle up so the nut points flatter rather than at the frame and you can get a socket on it. Remove it. Pull the axle forward using a ratchet strap or come along or whatever around the axle and something on the front of the truck and once it's out you can replace the bushing easily.
Done about a thousand sets myself
Done it every way possible
You will find the bushings ARE on a bind when all assembled and sitting at the normal ride height
That is why the bushings take a HEAVY "set" and wear out on the top anyway
So, One easy way is to get it unbolted some (partially disassembled) and then use a come-a-long
Big fan of the ones that bolt off like a van or 95 bronco,
I cut the rivets on most these days and go back together with new correct Ford bolts
Not sure if the captured nut style bolt setup stuff is still available from Ford but using the factory bolts is the way to go if you can get them
Think mine is bent, when I was doing my pivot bushing, I noticed the axle sits very twisted in the bracket. VERY twisted. To the point the bushing has crazy force on it and the ears of bracket don't hold it tight. Unbolted the radius arm and the axle straightened out.
Cant find any video anywhere or even write up. I assume I take off shock, coil spring retainer. Bottom bolt. Front two bolts maybe. Do I have to remove the whole coild spring and seat? Guess I’ll find out but any tips would be great. Have torch, breaker bar, 3ft pipe, 1 1/8 socket, plenty of liquid wrench ready to go
I find it hard to believe that the radius arm is bent that much. A picture is worth a thousand words….
Yes. In order to R&R the radius arm you will have to remove the coil spring, upper stud and lower bolt on the I-beam/ TTB, disconnect the shocks from the radius and beam. You will probably also have to disconnect the sway bar. I have never looked for a how-to video or write-up but there has to be several of each. I’m sure there is one on here somewhere.
Originally Posted by seschenburg
I made the choice to drill the rivets in the radius arm bracket when I replaced my bushings. You'll need some good 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits and an angle grinder to get them where you can hammer them out. Grind the tops flat for those that you can reach. Then 1/4" drill at least to the depth of the frame, followed with the 1/2" until the cap can be knocked off. Then a heavy duty punch to knock the rivet out. Replace with some 1/2" grade 8s (fine thread if you can get them) plus a lock washer and some loc-tite and you're good to go. Grade 5 might actually be good enough, but your call on that.
Sure you could do that but why? I never remove the bracket unless it is bad and that still leaves the front connected to the beam so you’re only halfway there. When I worked at the dealership I was taught to remove the spring and shock then loosen the stud and bolt to let the arm “flop around.” That way you aren’t removing rivets and fighting the arm to get it lined back up to go into the bracket.
I made the choice to drill the rivets in the radius arm bracket when I replaced my bushings. You'll need some good 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits and an angle grinder to get them where you can hammer them out. Grind the tops flat for those that you can reach. Then 1/4" drill at least to the depth of the frame, followed with the 1/2" until the cap can be knocked off. Then a heavy duty punch to knock the rivet out. Replace with some 1/2" grade 8s (fine thread if you can get them) plus a lock washer and some loc-tite and you're good to go. Grade 5 might actually be good enough, but your call on that.
You don't need to remove rivets or any of that crap if the bracket isn't rusted. Jack the axle up so the nut points flatter rather than at the frame and you can get a socket on it. Remove it. Pull the axle forward using a ratchet strap or come along or whatever around the axle and something on the front of the truck and once it's out you can replace the bushing easily.
Don't even need to remove the wheel.
Thanks but where in my original ppst do I mention I need to replace the bushing?
Done about a thousand sets myself
Done it every way possible
You will find the bushings ARE on a bind when all assembled and sitting at the normal ride height
That is why the bushings take a HEAVY "set" and wear out on the top anyway
So, One easy way is to get it unbolted some (partially disassembled) and then use a come-a-long
Big fan of the ones that bolt off like a van or 95 bronco,
I cut the rivets on most these days and go back together with new correct Ford bolts
Not sure if the captured nut style bolt setup stuff is still available from Ford but using the factory bolts is the way to go if you can get them
geez you guys really need to read the post 😆😆
my axle pivot bushing is twisted. The axle beam is twisted. When I unbolt the radius arm it sits straight. Why I think radius arm is bent.
I find it hard to believe that the radius arm is bent that much. A picture is worth a thousand words….
Yes. In order to R&R the radius arm you will have to remove the coil spring, upper stud and lower bolt on the I-beam/ TTB, disconnect the shocks from the radius and beam. You will probably also have to disconnect the sway bar. I have never looked for a how-to video or write-up but there has to be several of each. I’m sure there is one on here somewhere.
Sure you could do that but why? I never remove the bracket unless it is bad and that still leaves the front connected to the beam so you’re only halfway there. When I worked at the dealership I was taught to remove the spring and shock then loosen the stud and bolt to let the arm “flop around.” That way you aren’t removing rivets and fighting the arm to get it lined back up to go into the bracket.
that much? It would only need a tiny bend to throw the whole geometry of the axle off. Why then is my axle so twisted in the pivot bracket? When I unbolt radius arm the axle straightens out? Also what is a photo going to do? The radius arm is pre bent from factory. You wouldnt be able to tell if it has a 1/8inch bend from a photo. Youd need to place s new one next to it side by side.
also I searched for an hour last night. Could not find one video of 4x4 radius arm removal. Theyre all 2wd. Completely different process.
Are you looking at it with the vehicle’s weight on it or hanging? There will be a lot of pressure on the bushing with the suspension at full droop.
Radius arm is bent for tire clearance but you are claiming it is bent in a different direction.
Like I said I’ve never looked because it was taught how to do it when I was in a Ford training school. I explained the process. Unbolt stuff. Remove the arm. Put stuff back together.
Are you looking at it with the vehicle’s weight on it or hanging? There will be a lot of pressure on the bushing with the suspension at full droop.
Radius arm is bent for tire clearance but you are claiming it is bent in a different direction.
Like I said I’ve never looked because it was taught how to do it when I was in a Ford training school. I explained the process. Unbolt stuff. Remove the arm. Put stuff back together.
is my original post that poorly worded? My axle pivot bushing is cocked in the bracket. When my radius arm is disconnected it is straight. When the radius arm is connected the arm is twisted in the *pivot bushing bracket*. Whether the weight is off or truck is sitting on ground. If the radius arm is connected. The axle is twisted and the bushing is ****ed. If I disconnect radius arm the arm and pivot bushing sits straight. This post has absolutely nothing to do with the radius arm bushing. I know at full droop the radius arm bushings have force on them. Again. Nothing to do with radius arm bushings.
2WD or 4WD? I just removed my radius arms last week on my 2WD. It required the removal of the through bolt in the bottom of the TIB. Coil spring and seat need to come out first. My truck was a rust belt warrior, so it required heat and lots of ugga duggas. Since the bolt visible in the middle the heat was applied to the bolt and not the TIB. Not going to lie - it's a bitch. Replace the bolt when you're done. It's going to get cherry and I wouldn't trust it after that. Bronco Graveyard might have it. I haven't looked for replacements yet. Can't comment on 4WD setups.
2WD or 4WD? I just removed my radius arms last week on my 2WD. It required the removal of the through bolt in the bottom of the TIB. Coil spring and seat need to come out first. My truck was a rust belt warrior, so it required heat and lots of ugga duggas. Since the bolt visible in the middle the heat was applied to the bolt and not the TIB. Not going to lie - it's a bitch. Replace the bolt when you're done. It's going to get cherry and I wouldn't trust it after that. Bronco Graveyard might have it. I haven't looked for replacements yet. Can't comment on 4WD setups.
thanks eh. Its 4wd though. I bave a new arm on order from my local auto shop. I wouldnt trust bronco graveyard for anything. They sent me the wrong nuts for my coil stud and the “laser cnc’d” axle pivot bracket didnt line up at all. Got a refund after I bought another one from another company and it lined up great.
If the radius arm was bent enough that it is what is causing the bushing problem, you would have insane tire wear problems. And the truck would be violently pulling one direction. I jumped a curb in my truck one winter when I misjudged a turn, and the towns ability to salt roads. When I realized I was committed I steered into it straight on, 40mph over an 8 inch curb and didn't bend anything. So unless yours was purposely abused I can't see it being bent. Other than maybe it is almost totally rusted through.
