Hiding A/C Lines?
I looked into the vintage air kit, but wasnt happy with the controls, and exit of the plumbing.
I am going with vintage air condensor, as it seems to have a better mounting system, and then going with restomod air for the actual blower unit as its smaller, and will allow me to hide the lines better, and Fat fendor garage dash valence to mount controls and vents.
Question, has anyone ran the AC lines down the inside of the fender to hide them more? If so do you have pictures? I dont plan on running a heater, and dont like the idea of having the bulkhead right in the middle of my firewall.
I would also love to hear any insight or issues you gus may of ran into while installing AC in your f100s. I have only done this once before in a 95 f100 that was full caged for offroad. Its been a few years.
I think the hardest part of it would be the connections at the evaporator box under the dash as most of them are geared towards the lines penetrating the firewall.
Good luck
Bobby
I think the hardest part of it would be the connections at the evaporator box under the dash as most of them are geared towards the lines penetrating the firewall.
Good luck
Bobby
Also i thought i would drop some pictures i found yesterday.
If you want pictures from another angle, I would have to get them. This is what I have found.
I had bought a fiberglass one from Mid Fifty but it sucked big time. Sent pictures and many calls later they gave me back my money and I tossed it.
That one I built out of metal, ,either 14 or 16 ga. Picked a size I wanted and bent it into a U on a large brake. Made it in 2 pieces as the metal was only 4 feet wide. The fiberglass unit had a cutout for the steering and a recess for the glove box. Did not really like that recess so I made it the way you see it now. But now I need to figure out how to mount the glove box door to work. Really happy with the way it is looking though.
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I had bought a fiberglass one from Mid Fifty but it sucked big time. Sent pictures and many calls later they gave me back my money and I tossed it.
That one I built out of metal, ,either 14 or 16 ga. Picked a size I wanted and bent it into a U on a large brake. Made it in 2 pieces as the metal was only 4 feet wide. The fiberglass unit had a cutout for the steering and a recess for the glove box. Did not really like that recess so I made it the way you see it now. But now I need to figure out how to mount the glove box door to work. Really happy with the way it is looking though.
welding a piece of 1/8 X3/8" flat bar to the bottom inside of the
door and then a piano hinge to it flush to the bottom..
Will be using pop rivets to mount it to the dash. The original hinges can't be used any longer so with the template I kept from my last build
I cut out new stays to support the door at the level position..
Did this first on my pickup and some explanation on post# 15 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15201350
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I ran my ac lines inside the inner fender. The extra work was worth it for me to achieve the clean look. VintageAir components were used, plus bulkhead connectors from others, mostly sourced on Summit Racing. The remote condenser is mounted under the bed. Sourced from Southern Air/Hot Rods.
Inner fender bulkhead connector.
Lines going through cowl leading to VintageAir unit. Horizontal lines going to the right go to the remote condenser mounted under the bed.
Lines to Vintage Air unit.
The 135° adapters. Lines go under the compressor and beside the distributor.
I ran my ac lines inside the inner fender. The extra work was worth it for me to achieve the clean look. VintageAir components were used, plus bulkhead connectors from others, mostly sourced on Summit Racing. The remote condenser is mounted under the bed. Sourced from Southern Air/Hot Rods.
Inner fender bulkhead connector.
Lines going through cowl leading to VintageAir unit. Horizontal lines going to the right go to the remote condenser mounted under the bed.
Lines to Vintage Air unit.
The 135° adapters. Lines go under the compressor and beside the distributor.
I assume the hinge is already mounted to the door.
If so, through some trial and error use some gorilla tape to tape the part of the hinge facing the dash into place. Trace the left and right side and bottom of the hinge if it is out of line so you know where to move it outside the lines to adjust it and re-tape. Once you have it in place you can then tape it more solidly to the dash and mark the screw holes.
It's basically what I did to line up the holes to drill out for my upper seat belt mounts.












