When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a protorque starter I am putting in. one large lug for the main cable from starter side of relay and then it has a little tab which I assume is the NSS wire? Would that be correct?
Don't know what motor or starter but generally with that type of starter,big lug to battery side of relay which is not needed for starter,small lug to key switch 12v in start position only. Or in your case,the NSS. If you have an aftermarket ignition that requires constant 12v,you can eliminate the fender well mounted relay (solenoid) completely and use the S lead from solenoid to the small terminal on the starter.
Last edited by headloct; Jun 20, 2025 at 10:39 AM.
Reason: addition
so its a 73 F100 with a 302. The wiring was all chewed and other issues so I have yanked everything out, bought a new kit and and in the process of rewiring the whole thing. Its a total new build on the 302 so its a bunch of new parts, one being the this starter.
headloct is correct. You can go 2 different ways with this. Either eliminate the fender mounted solenoid and use the starters internal solenoid, or run a jumper from the big lug of the starter to the small lug. This way, you are still using the fender mounted solenoid and powering the starter solenoid with the main 12vdc. When the key is in the start position, 12vdc goes the the large and small lugs and the engine cranks. Release the key and all power to the starter is stopped.
Another reason to keep the original fender mounted starter relay is you might need the small "I" output for something important, like running to the coil positive to bypass the resistor wire.
It might not start on a cold winter day with a weak battery without this bypass, which sends full battery voltage to the coil positive while cranking.
Edit: Info from Google AI search.... The PMGR starter solenoid typically draws between 25 to 50 amps when initially latching, then tapers off to about 10 amps. This significant current draw is important for ensuring the solenoid engages properly.
I don't think it would be wise to try and pull this kind of amperage through the ingition switch.