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Erattic idle/dies

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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 04:22 PM
  #1  
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Erattic idle/dies

I have a 1990 f250 with a 5.8 v8 I have a new maf sensor and new throttle body and I'm in the middle of putting a egr on but the idle still goes crazy idling anywhere from 2.8k-500rpm I've checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. Ive replaced some hoses and connections that I thought might have a leak. Dont quite know what's wrong so if anybody has some knowledge on this it'd help a lot.
thanks
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 01:46 AM
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So random idle fluctuations and no codes of vacuum leaks? Step one if you havent already is just unplugging the battery for a few minutes.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Truckwardo
So random idle fluctuations and no codes of vacuum leaks? Step one if you havent already is just unplugging the battery for a few minutes.
can't tell if this is a serious answer but I'll try it either way. Thank you if it is.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 01:55 AM
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After reconnecting the battery, the ECU will power on and begin relearning the engine's operating parameters based on input from the new sensors. This process may take some time and driving under various conditions for the ECU to fully optimize the settings.

your block learn value might need a full reset to operate with the new sensors. This is the job of the block learn integrator. The computer in your truck is fairly sophisticated. Once all the sensors are calibrated you have to see if the condition persists. The idle air control actuator could be faulty or slow to respond. You throttle body could be worn. But if you change sensors you have to relearn the computer.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Truckwardo
After reconnecting the battery, the ECU will power on and begin relearning the engine's operating parameters based on input from the new sensors. This process may take some time and driving under various conditions for the ECU to fully optimize the settings.

your block learn value might need a full reset to operate with the new sensors. This is the job of the block learn integrator. The computer in your truck is fairly sophisticated. Once all the sensors are calibrated you have to see if the condition persists. The idle air control actuator could be faulty or slow to respond. You throttle body could be worn. But if you change sensors you have to relearn the computer.
that makes a lot of sense actually probably should have thought of something across the lines, thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 02:24 AM
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You probably meant to type "MAP sensor", not MAF sensor. 1990 F250's didn't have MAF sensors.
Have you pulled engine codes? Was the MAP sensor bad?
What hoses and connections did you replace?
Where did you source the throttle body? What was wrong with the old one?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Soup bean
You probably meant to type "MAP sensor", not MAF sensor. 1990 F250's didn't have MAF sensors.
Have you pulled engine codes? Was the MAP sensor bad?
What hoses and connections did you replace?
Where did you source the throttle body? What was wrong with the old one?
have not pulled engine codes previous owner did and said it check engine was because of egr delete and I put that back on, I replaced the vacuum hoses near the throttle body because they were loose, previous owner sourced throttle body and I'm pretty sure the brand was bbs or bds I don't remember off the top of my head, and I replaced the map sensor because I did a quick search on the idle and that's what it gave me to be honest. I'm not to mechanicaly inclined yet and haven't had to work on an old car till now so it's new stuff
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bogman
have not pulled engine codes previous owner did and said it check engine was because of egr delete and I put that back on, I replaced the vacuum hoses near the throttle body because they were loose, previous owner sourced throttle body and I'm pretty sure the brand was bbs or bds I don't remember off the top of my head, and I replaced the map sensor because I did a quick search on the idle and that's what it gave me to be honest. I'm not to mechanicaly inclined yet and haven't had to work on an old car till now so it's new stuff
Did you save the old throttle body and MAP sensor? The original parts on these trucks are generally higher quality than recently made replacement parts.
Post pictures of your throttle body and your map sensor.
Post a few pictures of each side of your engine.
Here's a video that will give you a general idea of what the vacuum lines do, but it's not identical to your engine. The vacuum lines that aren't covered in the video are one from the vacuum tree to the MAP sensor, one to the power brake booster, and one from the PCV valve, on the passenger's side valve cover, to the upper intake.

Is the new throttle body similar to the old one?
Did you transfer the Idle Air Control Valve to the new throttle body?
Here's a picture of the Idle Air Control Valve, bolted to the side of the throttle body.

(I'll edit the picture in. It won't upload right now).
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak.
Did you use a gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body?
The Idle Air Control Valve also needs a gasket.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 05:03 AM
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Idle Air Control Valve
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Soup bean
Did you save the old throttle body and MAP sensor? The original parts on these trucks are generally higher quality than recently made replacement parts.
Post pictures of your throttle body and your map sensor.
Post a few pictures of each side of your engine.
Here's a video that will give you a general idea of what the vacuum lines do, but it's not identical to your engine. The vacuum lines that aren't covered in the video are one from the vacuum tree to the MAP sensor, one to the power brake booster, and one from the PCV valve, on the passenger's side valve cover, to the upper intake.
https://youtu.be/iq9mr-a5y78?si=_DNZAIOImBWkxk5O

Is the new throttle body similar to the old one?
Did you transfer the Idle Air Control Valve to the new throttle body?
Here's a picture of the Idle Air Control Valve, bolted to the side of the throttle body.

(I'll edit the picture in. It won't upload right now).
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak.
Did you use a gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body?
The Idle Air Control Valve also needs a gasket.
I don't think it's similar to the old one the previous owner decided to put on a lot of new parts and cut corners so I'm tryna figure out how to fix them, I honestly dont know the answer to some of these questions I'll be sure to post some pictures of the engine.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Soup bean
Did you save the old throttle body and MAP sensor? The original parts on these trucks are generally higher quality than recently made replacement parts.
Post pictures of your throttle body and your map sensor.
Post a few pictures of each side of your engine.
Here's a video that will give you a general idea of what the vacuum lines do, but it's not identical to your engine. The vacuum lines that aren't covered in the video are one from the vacuum tree to the MAP sensor, one to the power brake booster, and one from the PCV valve, on the passenger's side valve cover, to the upper intake.
https://youtu.be/iq9mr-a5y78?si=_DNZAIOImBWkxk5O

Is the new throttle body similar to the old one?
Did you transfer the Idle Air Control Valve to the new throttle body?
Here's a picture of the Idle Air Control Valve, bolted to the side of the throttle body.

(I'll edit the picture in. It won't upload right now).
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak.
Did you use a gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body?
The Idle Air Control Valve also needs a gasket.






here are those photos I'm planing on putting a egr on today but I've gotten mixed answers on whether that would help or not
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 10:04 AM
  #12  
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I'd be tempted to plug the vacuum ports on the throttle body, and the T you have there.
Then, following the BBK instructions EXACTLY, set your idle.

Have you previously followed the BBK instructions to set your idle rpm?

Why did you swap your MAP and throttle body?
If you have the exact same issue, it's obviously something else, and I'd be tempted to put the originals back on and figure out what is causing the issue.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 10:16 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by wwhite
I'd be tempted to plug the vacuum ports on the throttle body, and the T you have there.
Then, following the BBK instructions EXACTLY, set your idle.

Have you previously followed the BBK instructions to set your idle rpm?

Why did you swap your MAP and throttle body?
If you have the exact same issue, it's obviously something else, and I'd be tempted to put the originals back on and figure out what is causing the issue.
I didn't put those parts on except the hoses, the previous owner did a whole bunch of stuff and I don't know what corners were cut
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Truckwardo
So random idle fluctuations and no codes of vacuum leaks? Step one if you havent already is just unplugging the battery for a few minutes.
I feel very dumb now but it worked great just doing that, funny how such a small thing creates such a big problem.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 11:50 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Bogman
I feel very dumb now but it worked great just doing that, funny how such a small thing creates such a big problem.
Awesome if it can be that simple.
Here's a video on various under hood components.
 
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