Wool Wax, if you noted above with the comparison chart, is strangely missing? Could it be because the company posting it can't compare? Wool wax is a thicker application of Fluid film, but NO chemicals are added, its pure sheep wool oil. They also make different iterations of the product for different use cases. There is Creeping WW, that slowly creeps into areas that can't be reached, there is also hard shell WW for areas you want protected but see surface touching on occasion. There is Clear for doing under hood and doors and such and the black. Pretty sure its carbon black they use. It doesn't evaporate like oil and FF, is non toxic, so no worries if some gets washed off and down the drain, unlike oil.

One proper application is good for years so no repeating every year. Highly recommend it. Safe enough to eat, though would recommend adding bread and peanut butter if you do.

 

Wool wax reminds me of black fluid film.

 

 

I've used both... now that I recently bought Woolwax in black. IMHO, after using the Woolwax, FF cannot hold a candle to it. Woolwax out of the can is thicker, will hold on a vertical surface and not run and drip off like FF. Have used FF in spot duty on my truck for years.

Probably going to order more in the near future, Woolwax black, to apply in spots and especially on my stock 6R140 trans lines to see how it hold up to heat. The thick HV Woolwax is like a grease and I put it on the trans mount there I showed on my thread.... that does not like heat... it melted off BUT it did work well in the rear wheel wells. It stayed covered and collected dust... good stuff there as that's what it's made for.

Not like the rest of my trans lines need it as they are solid and rust free, but I'm going to cover them with spray black WW and see how it holds up to the heat from the trans fluid. I sprayed my wife's wheel bearing adjustment nuts because the steelies with new snow tires did nit include hub covers, which I'd imagine got hot from the bearings turrning, and that stuff stayed put on those very clean nuts/axle ends... I was impressed.

 

Thats because its the same material. The only difference is Wool Wax isn't thinned down like Fluid Film. Its like 50 weight oil compared to 5 weight oil.

 

From their website:

Lanolin is a unique organic substance derived from the wool grease coating on raw sheep wool. It is an all natural, incredibility effective substance that acts as a moisture barrier and lubricant.


WoolWax® Undercoating Formula is a lanolin based corrosion inhibitor developed solely to protect the undercarriages of automobiles and trucks. Our lanolin is blended with other proprietary agents to provide long term corrosion protection. WoolWax® will provide long term protection (annual application) against salt, liquid calcium chloride, brine, and all other ice control agents that are being used by municipal departments.

Most other undercoating products contain up to 70% solvents, which make these products very thin and watery. Without a very thick viscosity, these products break down and wash off quickly. WoolWax® is solvent free and very thick and viscous. It applies like a heavy latex paint, which makes it very resistant to wash-off. WoolWax™ does not dry. It remains soft and pliable and continues to be active, migrating into all the inaccessible areas.

Woolwax® contains much more raw woolgrease (lanolin) than competitive products. This makes Woolwax™ thicker and much more resistant to wash off. Thereby providing a longer period of protection for exposed undercarriage areas. Woolwax™ is a maintenance application. A Woolwax™ treatment will easily provide protection through even the harshest of winter conditions. Woolwax™ is extremely resistant to wash-off. Woolwax™ contains no solvents, so there is no evaporation process. In the protected enclosed areas (doors, frame rails, etc.) a single treatment will provide protection for an indefinite period of time (years). The exposed area of the undercarriage should be re-treated every other year, or as needed depending on the use, and geographic region (snowbelt area, etc.). In most cases a Woolwax™ treatment will last 2 years. Some people do prefer to do a touch-up of the undercarriage every winter. There is no need to remove or power wash the existing Woolwax™. Simply give it a rinse with a garden hose to clean it up a bit, and apply a fresh coat right over the existing Woolwax™. Many of our Undercoaters suggest treating vehicles in the warmer weather so that the Woolwax™ creeps and migrates into all the inaccessible areas.



Here's their dealer finder if you are at least curious at all. I used the zip code 11530 and 13 businesses who use Woolwax came up within 85 miles from that zip code. Just FYI.

 

the milspray is some hocus pocus chemical that nj DOT and local military use. I just had it done and it looks like paint....very smooth ....Ive done the black fluid film in the past and the milspray looks 100 times better.

main reason for going with the milspray is it was local and I dont have to do it.

these guys must pretreat with something to do a before clean and then do the milspray....it looks that good.

 

Did you take any before and after pictures?

 

There is a wash used to chemically treat the surface without damage so the product can stick to it. Its a powerful organic degreaser that doesn't harm the environment. Wish I knew what it is cause it sure does clean things.

 

Cool... good luck.

 

didn’t do any before pics …back has been bothering me.


after pics …maybe…starting to feel better

 

Here are some pics …ba k is still bothering me so no under chasis pics.

the misplay was put on 23 hours ago ….so most of the drip off has happened…but not fully dried.

they did everything they would have done to a steel body …chasis, thru holes, wheel wells, doors, tail gate, etc.

I have seen salt dissolve aluminum during the hurricane sandy days so I’m in the group that doesnt believe aluminum is immune from salt.


they applicator said he did see any rust and wanted to know how that was possible on a 5 year old north east truck. I told him I used “salt away” before winter and during . The “ salt away “ for 4 vehicles was about 1 gallon and about 35 dollars. I would put the recommended mix in a 5 gallon bucket, then use a sump pump to feed a 1800 psi pressure washer and use a wide spray. Leaving it on to dry.

 

Has anyone tried PB Blaster Surface Shield? It's also lanolin based. I was doing a deep dive on all the rust preventatives about a year ago and their product seemed to hold up the best (2yr before re-application). I don't recall the Wool Wax product being in the testing which has me re-evaluating my options before.

I could get away with not coating the underside of my truck living on the coast, but I have since moved north and need to get a handle on this before my truck starts wasting away with the rest of them.

 

I heard about Surface Shield but never looked into it... looked into it and found this video which I find interesting... from a YouTuber in Ohio.

Video is from 4 years ago.

 

I can tell you as fact that Wool Wax will last at LEAST 5 years. The 2019 F450 I had was coated a week or so after it left the dealer and other than a couple areas where there are parts rubbing and heat, the coating was still 100%. The rear diff had a bare area with a little rust, it was near the pinion where it gets the hottest, and the springs that rubbed were bare. All the doors weeped and the tailgate weeped, and thats a PITA to keep clean which would be my only complaint.

This is my F350 that I coated last October, before winter and haven't touched since.




It will look just like this a year from now.