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I bought a used 93 Ex with hi miles and several small problems. One of the small problems became large when we got snow dumped on us last night. The 4X4 doesn't engage and I've traced the problem to the auto-hubs. I was hoping it was the shift-motor, so I took it off and cleaned the contacts and replaced it. It seems to work now and the front driver's-side shaft turns. My first question is if the passengerside should turn as well or if it somehow transfers to that side if other side slips? I took off the driver's side wheel and inspected the hub. An O-ring was torn and the grease inside was filthy and stiff. Will cleaning it and replacing help, and if so, what grease to use inside? If it would be easier to replace with Warn manual locking hubs, is it something fairly simple to do at home? A nearby dealer sells the kit with hub, spindle adaptor, and some socket you must need for $200. Any input would be extremely helpful.
i cleaned out my hubs and they worked better thn before with over 232k on them i cleaned out and used high temp axle grease and they work like brand new i wish i had the money to to change he hubs on my truck but try cleaning them out first
Well, I took them apart and cleaned them. I was hoping they'd immediately start working again, but no luck yet. They were EXTREMELY dirty so I'm sure I didn't hurt 'em any. One seemed like it was all in good shape, passenger side had a part with broken teeth in the hub. If nothing else, I did learn how they go together if I can ever afford to replace them with manuals. Thanks for the help.
The motor took no time at all AFTER reading several posts in these forums about the proper way to do it. Definately invest in a T20 tamper-proof torx bit! I didn't have one and that was the only problem I had. Also, search the posts for the procedure to pull the wires so you can take it off the truck. I pulled the harness, and if you look into the plug, you see a red insert around the center post. I took a dental pick and got under it to pull it out. Once that's out, pry the tabs against the wire you need out(should only need to pull blk,blue, and green) and pull wire out the back. Also, first thing I did was draw a diagram to show which wires went where. Now you can get out from under the truck and work at the workbench. Before removing the 3 torx screws on the case, SCRIBE A LINE across the case lid and case so it goes back on the same way. I recommend doing a search first on here because a lot of the posts had links to instructions with pictures. By the time I had researched it, I went straight out to the shop and did it no problem. Good luck and I hope this helped.
HI I JUST REPLACED MY AUTOMATIC HUBS TODAY. THE DRIVER SIDE WENT BAD. I CONVERTED TO WARN MANUAL HUBS. THEY COST 180.00 HOWEVER YOU NEED TO BUY THE CONVERSION KIT. THIS COST 60.00. FROM ADVANCE AUTO PARTS. THE SPINDLE IS ONLY 10.00. THE PROCESS IS FAIRLY EASY. THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE CONVERSION KIT EXPLAINS PROCEDURE TO A TEE. JUST MAKE SURE YOU READ INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. ALSO INSTRUCTIONS WITH MANUAL HUBS ARE CLEAR. THERE IS A SPINDLE WASHER AND LOCK RING. MAKE SURE YOU REINSTALL THESE. THIS IS DESCRIBED IN THE MANUAL LOCKING HUB DIRECTIONS. I NOTICED WITH MINE IF YOU LOCK THE HUBS IN YOU CAN STILL USE TOUCH BUTTON TO ACTIVATE TRANSFER CASE.
I had one auto hub go bad on me about two years ago on my 91 Explorer replace both with Warn manual hubs (cheaper then one auto hub)about $180.00 for everything in the kit and you don't have to rplace the spindle they are the same for either hubs You can lock them in and still use the shift on the fly with no problems
the only thing you mst remember is that "the hubs are manually locked in and must be manually unlocked" I keeped mine locked in all winter so I wouldn't forget to lock them in
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