Wheel Hop
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 282
From: Billings Montana
Are you one of those who think they need to rev the engine up to 2000 rpm and then let the clutch out when starting from a stop? I find it hard to believe under normal driving conditions your pickup is chirping/scratching the tires from a stop. I have a pretty well built 292 V8 with a manual and I get absolutely no chirp/scratch when starting out from a stop. Not even when I put the skinny little 650 16 bias ply tires on. But I let the clutch out at an idle to the point of slight engagement then I start to apply throttle. No chirp/scratch and no smell of slipping/burning clutch!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 95
Likes: 13
Believe it. I learned to drive a stick 63 years ago and have had many manual transmission cars and trucks ever since. In fact, I have four of them right now ('79 Jeep, 2 '30 Model A's, '66 F100). When I got this truck, it had the 300 in it and the wheel hop was something I had never experienced before. I understand the process for smooth take-off as you described, but this truck would hop so much you could barely make forward progress. Caltracs settled it down, but what I'm trying to get the to bottom of is why my truck behaves so differently than yours.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 74
Likes: 16
From: SoCal
It's an open diff and a manual transmission (T5). I'm not getting on it when taking off, in fact quite the opposite to keep it from chirping. Also, the tires are wider than original and have very few miles on them.
I have played with the Caltracs preloads and have only been able to move the chirping from one side to the other.
Some of you have suggested the bigger engine might be the culprit, but it had this problem with the 300 IL6 in it.
I have played with the Caltracs preloads and have only been able to move the chirping from one side to the other.
Some of you have suggested the bigger engine might be the culprit, but it had this problem with the 300 IL6 in it.
But if you're saying it's happening going straight and at reasonable throttle there must be something else going on. The main things that come to mind are. Sticky brakes, binding throttle(making it hard to precisely control how much throttle you're actually giving it), driver error. Maybe you're not used to having that much torque. If possible you could provide a video of the issue. Would be a lot easier to figure out what's actually going on. These things are sometimes hard to get on video though.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 95
Likes: 13
Pavement. Let's go back to when I first got the truck. It had the 300 IL6 with 2 dead cylinders and it still hopped like mad even with very light throttle and conservative clutch engagement. Strait line on pavement. I changed the leaf springs and shocks, but that was awhile back and now I don't remember what shocks I got. The new leaf springs were specified for that truck according to the supplier.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 74
Likes: 16
From: SoCal
At very light throttle this shouldn't be an issue. If you replaced the rear springs and added caltracs the rear suspension should be sorted. I'm starting to think it might actually be oscillation. Like when the truck starts to move forward it pulls your foot off the gas which causes the truck to decel and you to hit the gas again causing the truck to jerk/buck. IF this is the case, you can make sure your butt/back is firmly resting against the back rest. And make sure your right heel is contacting the floor acting as a hinge to actuate the throttle. Clutch adjustment may be in order too. If you ever feel like you have to reach to actuate the pedals your driving position is wrong. You could try moving your seat forward and see if anything changes. These trucks always feel cramped so you might unintentionally have the seat farther back than it should be.
After that I'm stumped. Hopefully someone else will chime in or you can upload a video of the issue.
After that I'm stumped. Hopefully someone else will chime in or you can upload a video of the issue.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,057
Likes: 1,611
From: Seattle
Definitely not entirely normal. The Cal-Tracs sound like they could be acting as a Band-Aid for the real problem at this point and might mask further troubleshooting attempts. Personally, I'd probably remove them temporarily until the root cause was sorted then reinstall them, but I like to reduce factors when troubleshooting. Things that would bear looking at closely that come to mind.
Worn U-joints or slip splines
Out of phase yokes
Driveshaft imbalance
Pinion angle problems
Damaged driveshaft - dented or bent
Shackles worn
Bushings worn
Bent axle
Chassis flex
Leaf spring behavior - progressive leaf springs can contribute to wheel hop and all but the highest rated leaf spring option was progressive on the 1966 F100. Meaning both the 950 lb. and optional 1250 lb. were progressive. The optional 1650 lb. rear springs were single stage.
A small list of possibilities. I usually recommend not to exclude anything without verifying.
Have you ever had anyone else look at the situation? A suspension shop might see something. Just a thought - but if the Cal-Tracs get you close maybe it's not that big of a deal.
Worn U-joints or slip splines
Out of phase yokes
Driveshaft imbalance
Pinion angle problems
Damaged driveshaft - dented or bent
Shackles worn
Bushings worn
Bent axle
Chassis flex
Leaf spring behavior - progressive leaf springs can contribute to wheel hop and all but the highest rated leaf spring option was progressive on the 1966 F100. Meaning both the 950 lb. and optional 1250 lb. were progressive. The optional 1650 lb. rear springs were single stage.
A small list of possibilities. I usually recommend not to exclude anything without verifying.
Have you ever had anyone else look at the situation? A suspension shop might see something. Just a thought - but if the Cal-Tracs get you close maybe it's not that big of a deal.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 282
From: Billings Montana
Am I missing where it says what motor you have in it now. All I can find is that it had a 300 in it that had 2 dead cylinders. But it hopped with a worn out motor. You sure it isn't clutch related. Warped pressure plate grease on clutch, if it is a long wheel base is the carrier shot broken mounts for the springs motor tranny busted frame you aren't seeing somewhere. Take some pictures and post from under the pickup. If you have a gopro use a mag base mount and put it under the truck pointed at the diff and see what the rear is doing.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 610
Likes: 42
From: Lacey
Typically Calvert wants you to use their's since they engineer the bars with the adjustable shocks they offer. I completely agree that it could be that there's some other issue going on causing the chirp.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,469
Likes: 965
From: Tri Cities, TN
I agree with @TA455HO you have some underlying problem, and the Cal tracks are a Band-Aid.
I have a SWB 65, 3:70 Trac Lok rear, new 1250#, 6 leaf, (5/1) springs, new bushings, Monroe gas shocks. 4-barrel Cleveland with a C6. 255/60-17's 440 treadwear on the back. It never wheel hops no matter how you launch it. I will say the back end is stiff and makes for a little unpleasant ride on a bumpy road.
I have a SWB 65, 3:70 Trac Lok rear, new 1250#, 6 leaf, (5/1) springs, new bushings, Monroe gas shocks. 4-barrel Cleveland with a C6. 255/60-17's 440 treadwear on the back. It never wheel hops no matter how you launch it. I will say the back end is stiff and makes for a little unpleasant ride on a bumpy road.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 95
Likes: 13
I discovered the underlying problem causing my tires to chirp going around corners. I became suspicious of the third member so I pulled it. Found out it has a Detroit Locker in it. No wonder it chirps. Converting to Trutrack.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 985
From: Near Yosemite CA
are you changing whole 9" or just carrier?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
I ran a Detroit locker & Cal-Trac's on my drag car, 70 AMC Javelin and yes I had 9 x 16 slicks.
I also ran new factory leaf springs, 6 each side IIRC and cheap Monro shocks and never any problems at the track.
On the shocks & springs a Co. always wants you to buy their products but you can get factory parts to work just s good.
You have to make sure the shocks dont "top out" as the suspension pulls apart on take off if set up right.
When they top out it will lift the tire off the pavement and loose traction.
I have driven a car with a locker on the street and you do get some tire noise around corners when under power but you can work around it if you try.
I would rather have both tires "locked" when under power but that is me.
If you are happy with the changing out the locker go for it.
Dave ----
I also ran new factory leaf springs, 6 each side IIRC and cheap Monro shocks and never any problems at the track.
On the shocks & springs a Co. always wants you to buy their products but you can get factory parts to work just s good.
You have to make sure the shocks dont "top out" as the suspension pulls apart on take off if set up right.
When they top out it will lift the tire off the pavement and loose traction.
I have driven a car with a locker on the street and you do get some tire noise around corners when under power but you can work around it if you try.
I would rather have both tires "locked" when under power but that is me.
If you are happy with the changing out the locker go for it.
Dave ----