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Spent some time this weekend doing some touchup on the sandblasting...For some reason I had in my head to get everything blasted before I started priming. In hindsight, I should have done the blasting in smaller groups and primed in smaller groups to avoid as much touchup. Live and learn.
Found one small crack in the front driver support arm and a spot where the axle pivot bushing rusted through. Will weld these up at a later date. What was most important was getting all the freshly blasted material in primer tonight, which I did for the most part....
Had ANOTHER can of the 2K that must have been damaged in shipping, and could not finish tonight! Going to message Eastwood again and have them send replacements. Love the Optiflow product, but these cans and the way they package them for shipping are a joke.
Have the rear axle and front diff and bumpers to touchup blast this week and all the major stuff will be in primer by next weekend. I have the extreme chassis black gloss paint being delivered tomorrow.
As this is a budget build, I ended up ordering a 4" Rough Country lift with rear leaf springs for $900. I couldn't justify another $600 for the BDS (although I wanted to!). That should be delivered in the next 2 weeks, and January-March will focus on getting the rolling chassis assembled.
small crack bit of pitting optiflow primer mess of freshly blasted parts Damn can strikes again! Done-ish
Nice
You are lucky that driveline centering ball pivot shaft is in good shape
Good job sandblasting those parts
Weld up those cracks I saw
That is bushing metal in that radiator support or transfer case mount
Might be able to replace that metal too
Also...As I am looking to replace all of the bushings, and hardware, do you know if there is a comprehensive list anywhere of all of the replacement parts that get worn out, or will I just need to source piece by piece?
I replace with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. They have different kits available so you’d have to see exactly which one you need. There are also a lot of different sway bars so you’ll have to measure the old bushings and the bar before sitting down to order replacements. I reuse the old hardware unless it’s in bad shape. Bronco Graveyard usually has the special radius arm to TTB bolts and studs as well as other suspension hardware.
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Dec 9, 2025 at 04:32 PM.
Slowly making progress. I did some touchup on the rear axle and front diff along with some of the axles and driveshafts. Got them primed and then coated with Eastwood Extreme Chasiss Black. I liked the flat black look of the primer better than the gloss of the chassis black, but the gloss has the better chemical resistance and cleans up easier etc...
Hoping to get rid of 1/2 of the blast media, do a couple other small parts and then get rid of the remainder. I have used a mesh screen to filter and reuse this media about 3 times and it is getting very dusty. I will end up getting another 1,000 lbs of the fine crushed glass to do the body with this spring after I have the frame put back together and redo the poly containment that is getting filthy.
touchup and cleaning 2k primer after chassis black
Have a few days off, so I am hoping to get the frame savers installed and then get the frame painted. Cutting the openings for the frame savers went better than I had dreaded. Cut off wheel to get relief cuts, then a metal jigsaw to cut the openings. Just did the back (4) and will do the others later tonight. Then will sand to bare metal in those areas, tack weld all in place and then weld both the bottom and top before grinding smooth and painting. Also ordered a new tailgate and various bushings and frame components/hardware and axle rebuild kits that should be here in a couple days so I can start assembling once frame paint is cured.
7 out of 8 areas are toast positioned, measured and used a chalk marker to trace jigsaw goes through 1/32" metal like butter relief cuts thicker ones were a bit more of a pain, but all went rather quickly test fit for future welding
Not proud of my lack of welding skills, but its function over form I guess...
Have the 4 done on the main frame, will do the other 4 mounts later today. Then hoping to get everything primed and coated with chassis black in the next week or two so the frame can finally start getting bolted back together. The 4" Rough County lift kit should be here in a week along with the various other stuff. Only debating on taking the axles to someone to have them professionally rebuilt. They said if I bring the rebuild kits, it will be $600 per axle.
So my lift kit and a bunch of parts have been delivered. I ordered the Bushing Kit and realized that it obviously does not come with the replacement steel mounts. I ordered replacement body mount bolts, but I need to get the steel mounts/cups I guess. Anyone know the best place to source these? I didn't see an 8 pack that is sold separately anywhere and all of mine were beyond being able to be reused. The only kit that comes with bushings, comes with the rubber ones...Rubber
Got the body mounts primed and patched the really thin spot where the rear shock mounts to the frame. Going to apply the Extreme Chasis Black tomorrow, but I am still wondering if anything needs to be done with the front shock towers. Pictures below for reference, the mounting holes are still in good shape, but now with all the rust removed, the only points of contact are the 3 bolt hole locations and about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of void space is now between the remainder...Not sure if this is going to present future issues or not?
cut out ultra thin spot sliver of frame section void left primed repaired body mount holes
In the process of test fitting all of the primed frame attachments. After spending $200+ on frame hardware, I think I found what I like. About half of the existing old rivet holes are 1/2", but others are a bit smaller (around 7/16"). I had a hell of a time finding 7/16" serrated grade 8 flange head bolts, and had to order standard bolts and washers. I have elected to just drill out the smaller rivet holes where it makes sense in order to accept the larger 1/2" serrated grade 8 flange head bolts. These give a much tighter fit, have more bearing surface and will be more uniform. some of the smaller openings go down to 3/8" for various pieces.
Will get everything test fit, taken apart, and redcoat the openings where bare metal is exposed while the attachments get topcoat with chassis black.
Lower holes on the leaf spring hanger were a bit small, only had to drill the bottom two out. opted for the bigger hardware (and because color did not match haha) left a small amount so the bolt does the final cut and fits snugly in the frame opening (will clean up then frame and recoat)
