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You would pull the torque converter nuts, so the trans separates from the engine leaving the torque converter in place
That way you do not risc damage to the pump
There is another cardinal rule about going back together,
The torque converter must "rattle"
That means the converter is loose in the bolt holes and rattles back and forth before you tighten the nuts
Note
I used to be a trans R&R guy back when the AOID was brand new
Got a ton of hard knocks experience real quick on those early AODs
Gotcha! That makes sense now. Based on what i have done, should i just take the trans over to a shop to have it evaluated/rebuilt you think? I would try and rebuild it myself if it doesnt require many specialized tools, but have never messed with a trans.
No, if you did not hear a big pop or were not way out of alignment, you should be okay
Might want to replace the front converter seal though (anyway) and check the bushing for clearance
Pulled the valve covers off and this thing is pretty filthy. I was able to pull the intake and the heads tonight to get a rough idea of overall condition of the engine. The guy I bought it from said he thought someone rebuilt the engine recently, but I highly doubt it given the condition. I can feel a ridge on the back cylinder wall on either side. Will try and take the rest apart this week and decide what all this needs after I get it cleaned up.
In the process of rebuilding and cleaning the carb along with cleaning the 10 pounds of grease and mud off of the transfer case. Luckily, both look good I don't think any repairs are necessary other than new gaskets and seals. Going to attempt to take the body off the frame in the next couple of weeks by sliding 4x4's under the front and rear and jacking them up and setting on jack stands. I will then put the frame on wheel skates and move that over so I can work on sanding/ blasting both over the fall/winter.
Well, the body and frame are finally separated. Removing body mount bolts has to be my least favorite task! had the same issues on my 72' Highboy. Every single one fought me. The frame is in great shape minus the body mount holes. I will address these after I get the frame stripped down and sandblasted. Taking the body off the frame by myself was quite the chore, but only had one "oh ****" moment when I bumped one of my jack stands and it was leaning precariously...
Going to do most of the frame work this Fall and then try and get to the body this winter. Since I'm sandblasting, I'm torn on whether to do Por15 or do go with a more traditional paint. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts, let me know.
You would pull the torque converter nuts, so the trans separates from the engine leaving the torque converter in place
Yes. I’ve never seen that before. It comes apart the same way it goes together but in reverse order. Seat the torque converter in the from pump. Install the transmission. Rotate the engine to install the converter nuts/bolts. There is no way to install the converter on the flex plate and then bolt the trans to the engine without damaging the pump.
Originally Posted by DHDeichmann
The guy I bought it from said he thought someone rebuilt the engine recently, but I highly doubt it given the condition
It looks like someone was there before or I’m mistaken. When did Ford put heads with adjustable rockers on these engines. My 302 and 351W engine have pedestal mount rockers arms.
Originally Posted by DHDeichmann
, I'm torn on whether to do Por15 or do go with a more traditional paint. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts, let me know.
The body shop that helped with the CJ and the F-150 uses Chassis Saver paint. I’ve been told POR-15 is good but needs a top coat?
Bronco Graveyard had “frame saver” repair parts for the mounts. I bought a pair but did not need them. The patch pieces are thick metal.
Yes. I’ve never seen that before. It comes apart the same way it goes together but in reverse order. Seat the torque converter in the from pump. Install the transmission. Rotate the engine to install the converter nuts/bolts. There is no way to install the converter on the flex plate and then bolt the trans to the engine without damaging the pump.
It looks like someone was there before or I’m mistaken. When did for put heads with adjustable rockers on these engines. My 302 and 351W engine have pedestal mount rockers arms.
The body shop that helped with the CJ and the F-150 uses Chassis Saver paint. I’ve been told POR-15 is good but needs a top coat?
Bronco Graveyard had “frame saver” repair parts for the mounts. I bought a pair but did not need them. The patch pieces are thick metal.
Yeah I was looking at their frame saver parts and will be getting those for sure.
In the slow and painful process of using PB Blaster and trying to get the cross members and remaining suspension bolts take off so I can get the axles separated from the frame. I had intended on not going too crazy with the removal over every component, but I think I am going to remove every rivet and replace with bolts because there is a bunch of trapped rust between the various components. Not sure what the best way to approach it is going to be, but I will probably use a combination of drill / grinder and chisel to get all these old rivets off. Half are questionable anyway and since im going this far, better just do it all.
I had intended on not going too crazy with the removal over every component, but I think I am going to remove every rivet and replace with bolts because there is a bunch of trapped rust between the various components. Not sure what the best way to approach it is going to be, but I will probably use a combination of drill / grinder and chisel to get all these old rivets off.
I replaced the coil spring/ shock brackets because the replacement frame had single shock brackets and I wanted dual shock like I had on my old frame. It was crazy how much debris gets trapped in between the bracket and the frame. I didn’t bother remove all the other mounts. Use whatever works best for you? I used a grinder and air chisel/air hammer to remove the rivets.
I replaced the coil spring/ shock brackets because the replacement frame had single shock brackets and I wanted dual shock like I had on my old frame. It was crazy how much debris gets trapped in between the bracket and the frame. I didn’t bother remove all the other mounts. Use whatever works best for you? I used a grinder and air chisel/air hammer to remove the rivets.
did you notice a big difference adding the extra shocks up front? Debating if I’m gonna do the same.
Finally got everything stripped from the frame this weekend. Now I just have to break down the axles and some other parts before I setup my poly sandblasting containment. Drilled most of the rivets out on the top flange, now just to flip it over and drill the remainder on the bottom flange to break the frame down completely. Still undecided on what I'm going to coat it with, but Im thinking paint rather than powder coat since I'm trying to save as much $ on this one because my Highboy projects is spiraling haha.
In the process of removing the remainder of the front steering and suspension components from the front axle. The lower spring retaining nuts were nearly impossible to get broken free. Used about a can of PB blaster over the past week, and finally some heat to get these off. Only think that compared was the body mounts in the amount of frustration haha.
There's a bit more corrosion than I would like to see, but not sure if it is worth replacing anything at this time...thoughts? Likely going to sandblast all of the metal components and paint along with frame before I start reassembly this winter.
I don’t think you have much choice but clean up and reuse the lower spring mounts. I had to replace the beams when I took my suspension apart because the welded nuts broke loose when I tried to remove the upper studs.
Since they go under the spring, now is the time to find some sway bar brackets and the bar
Alright, I give up... How the hell do I get this lower steering knuckle bolt off? I was able to break it free and turn it about 10 degrees with a wrench, but now I'm hitting the side and can't reposition the wrench to get another turn on it...Is there a special wrench for this?
Also, the grease in these hubs is nasty. The spindles don't look the best, not sure if these are ok to put back on after cleaning and new seals and bearings or if the seals will leak due to the corrosion of the spindle?
