DIY AC charge not cooling
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2025
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DIY AC charge not cooling
83 Bronco originally installed with AC and the PO had pulled it out. I installed all the components from THIS thread. I'll relay a few things that could be the issue and welcome your inputs. I called the vendor and confirmed I needed 10oz of oil. I left the compressor upside down for an hour or so and after installing I added 10oz directly into the compressor on the high side (I assumed it didn't matter). I had to convert the new hoses to 134. the low side adaptor seemed to work fine when trying to connect the 134 manifold (Schrader on Schrader). The high side did not - once the adapter was installed the strider valve didn't move at all. With the adapter removed it connected to the manifold fine. After thinking a bit, I figured I could remove the Schrader valve on the hose and keep the one in the adapter and that's what I did. I was able to get 36 oz of 134 in the system. When I removed the high side manifold a spurt of oil came out. With the AC on, I can tell it's ever so slightly chilled, but that's it. Not cold at all. The adapter on the low side was outgassing (hissing slightly) and I tried to reseat it. I put the cap on and here I am.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Is the compressor running all the time? Or is it cycling? Is the line that feeds the evaporator coil (coil in the dash/firewall) getting cold? Is the line going from the evap coil to the compressor getting cold? Is the line leaving the compressor going to the condenser coil(coil in front of the radiator) getting warm or hot?
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Cross-Country
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@Franklin2 Thanks for the quick reply!!
I reviewed
I used to install the 134. Uh oh, I didn't purge the yellow line between cans. How bad is that?
Still cycling
I'll check these in the morning - it's dark now and the neighbors have little kids.
I reviewed
Still cycling
I'll check these in the morning - it's dark now and the neighbors have little kids.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2025
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I pulled a vacuum for about 3 mins. It got down to 30mmHg and I closed it and held for an hour. Vacuum stayed. I opened it and vacuumed for a long time - took a good nap - maybe 2-3 hours.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Still cycling with 36 oz of freon in it, the evap coil indeed may be clogged. If the line from the evap coil to the compressor is very cold and condensing, that may also be a clue that the evap coil is clogged with mud.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
This can tell you if there is a problem inside the system / charge or clogged wise and kind of thinking this if the compressor is turning on & off.
I know the first time a filled my system with all new parts it took more than what everyone said it would.
Now if I could only find where the charge goes each year I would be really happy camper.
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2025
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Well, now you got me second guessing. I pulled the inner side of the shell off and it looked brand new - no leaves or anything. I didn't do the external side. Maybe that side is clogged. I'm having my coffee now and will get out there to check temps on everything mentioned earlier. After reporting I'll pull the cover off - hopefully I can do it with the hoses connected.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 445
Likes: 94
From: Texas, near Houston
83 Bronco originally installed with AC and the PO had pulled it out. I installed all the components from THIS thread. I'll relay a few things that could be the issue and welcome your inputs. I called the vendor and confirmed I needed 10oz of oil. I left the compressor upside down for an hour or so and after installing I added 10oz directly into the compressor on the high side (I assumed it didn't matter). I had to convert the new hoses to 134. the low side adaptor seemed to work fine when trying to connect the 134 manifold (Schrader on Schrader). The high side did not - once the adapter was installed the strider valve didn't move at all. With the adapter removed it connected to the manifold fine. After thinking a bit, I figured I could remove the Schrader valve on the hose and keep the one in the adapter and that's what I did. I was able to get 36 oz of 134 in the system. When I removed the high side manifold a spurt of oil came out. With the AC on, I can tell it's ever so slightly chilled, but that's it. Not cold at all. The adapter on the low side was outgassing (hissing slightly) and I tried to reseat it. I put the cap on and here I am.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2025
Posts: 76
Likes: 5
Is the compressor running all the time? Or is it cycling? Is the line that feeds the evaporator coil (coil in the dash/firewall) getting cold? Is the line going from the evap coil to the compressor getting cold? Is the line leaving the compressor going to the condenser coil(coil in front of the radiator) getting warm or hot?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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The side away from the engine is the upstream side and is where debris collects. Even if you don’t find any big chunks, dust still collects there, mixes with normal condensation, and forms a cement-like paste that acts like an insulator.
Now some possible bad news: Did you replace the receiver/dryer? If not, and the system sat open for an extended period, the desiccant inside is saturated with moisture.
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Cross-Country
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Do you mean the side facing the engine? That is the downstream side so nothing will collect there.
The side away from the engine is the upstream side and is where debris collects. Even if you don’t find any big chunks, dust still collects there, mixes with normal condensation, and forms a cement-like paste that acts like an insulator.
Good news, you can swing the evaporator (and attached receiver/dryer) out of the case without disconnecting anything, thanks to the flex lines.
Now some possible bad news: Did you replace the receiver/dryer? If not, and the system sat open for an extended period, the desiccant inside is saturated with moisture.
The side away from the engine is the upstream side and is where debris collects. Even if you don’t find any big chunks, dust still collects there, mixes with normal condensation, and forms a cement-like paste that acts like an insulator.
Good news, you can swing the evaporator (and attached receiver/dryer) out of the case without disconnecting anything, thanks to the flex lines.
Now some possible bad news: Did you replace the receiver/dryer? If not, and the system sat open for an extended period, the desiccant inside is saturated with moisture.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
I dont see a big difference between the high / low side so I am thinking a few things, low charge, bad compressor.
If there was a plugged line and the compressor was working I think you would see 1 side higher than the other then again maybe not because when the system is working right you see a pressure spread.
I still say it is low on charge because of the gauge readings, both close to same PSI, and the compressor turning on & off.
Besides replacing the dryer, done because of age and when the system sits open, did you look at or replace the orifice valve?
Dave ----
If there was a plugged line and the compressor was working I think you would see 1 side higher than the other then again maybe not because when the system is working right you see a pressure spread.
I still say it is low on charge because of the gauge readings, both close to same PSI, and the compressor turning on & off.
Besides replacing the dryer, done because of age and when the system sits open, did you look at or replace the orifice valve?
Dave ----
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,174
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For low cooling, I've had several instances (on various vehicles) of slippage at the compressor clutch. It's easy enough to check. Disconnect the pressure switch at the receiver/dryer. Use a test lead to connect battery power to the wire feeding the clutch. Physically trace it out if needed, but I think it is black with yellow dashes. You should hear a clunk as the clutch engages. Put a dap of paint on the pulley and face of the clutch as alignment marks. Run the engine for thirty seconds or so. No need to go any longer. Shut off the engine and look at the marks. If they have shifted more than 1/4", the clutch is slipping. If so, the next step would be to determine if it's a mechanical fault or wiring problem.
Be sure to use the jumper method to power the clutch directly from the battery. If you simply jumper across the pressure switch, that circuit is not powered while the key is in Start, causing a false indication of slippage.