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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

No spark… possible distributor failure?

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Old May 28, 2025 | 07:02 AM
  #16  
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Is the Painless Wiring harness the same as that one?
I know that is a way to go as you can get the distributor and the ICM (box) but not the harness.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 28, 2025 | 07:45 AM
  #17  
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I did several tests with my VOM and the test for this harness failed. No reading. My assumption is this is why I have no spark. The other tests were successful.



 
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Old May 28, 2025 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by headtube
I did several tests with my VOM and the test for this harness failed. No reading. My assumption is this is why I have no spark. The other tests were successful.

Repeat the test at the distributor connector. See if it's the same.

I am not sure I would see this as causing a no run condition. As long as the Pulses from the distributor reach the ignition module, it should work.
Jim
 
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Old May 28, 2025 | 09:46 AM
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Does "no reading" mean infinite resistance?
This loop should not be connected to ground, it should be isolated from ground.

From Google....
Infinite resistance refers to a condition in an electrical circuit where no current can flow, typically indicated by an open circuit. In practical terms, it means that the resistance is so high that it is considered effectively infinite, often shown as "OL" (over limit) on a multimeter.
 
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Old May 28, 2025 | 11:53 AM
  #20  
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No reading = no indication on all ohm settings, did not respond. At the distributor side… this tested successfully…


 
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Old May 28, 2025 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by headtube
I did several tests with my VOM and the test for this harness failed. No reading. My assumption is this is why I have no spark. The other tests were successful.

Like was said, no reading is good. No reading would be greater than 70,000 ohms correct? If you hold the meter terminals apart in the air, you get "no reading" or like was mentioned infinity. In other words very very high ohms which is beyond the ability of the meter, which is what you want. You want these two wires to not be grounded.
 
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Old May 28, 2025 | 01:46 PM
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I don't think there's anything wrong with your harness.

Reconnect everything and do something voltage testing with the key ON. Engine not running.
Is your DS2 ignition module getting power on the red wire, in the 2 wire plug?
Check voltage at the at the coil positive.
Jim
 
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Old May 29, 2025 | 08:46 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
You might want to inspect the pick up coil, make sure it doesn't look odd, or corroded, and maybe try moving the dizzy shaft by hand, up/down/sideways, to see how much play it has.
Just to add a little more info, if the reluctor wheel is rubbing the sensor it will not produce spark. There needs to be a gap between the "gear looking thingie" and the fixed part that has a magnet inside.
So ... if you see rub marks, replace your distributor.
Good luck, Jim
 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 02:51 PM
  #24  
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Well, I’m baffled by this situation now. All tests check out in my favour, yet I continue to have no spark. The pick up coil checks out good. The positive side of the coil tests at 6.86V. Gets warm when key left on. There’s power going to the ICM red wire. All red wires test power on with test light. There is a gap at the pickup coil, no rubbing. There’s even the sound of spark when I move the pickup coil slightly toward the reluctor wheel (very small play here). I don’t understand what this might be. Starter solenoid? Key ignition switch? Bizzarre!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 04:24 PM
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You may have power to everything but to get spark the power have to stop to the NEG side of the coil and if I understand correctly the ICM / box dose this.
Also the ICM / box gets this from the pickup coil in the distributor. I know you checked it with a meter as pre the book but wonder if you can test to opening & breaking of the field?
Dave ----
 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 04:34 PM
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[QUOTE=FuzzFace2;21593494]You may have power to everything but to get spark the power have to stop to the NEG side of the coil and if I understand correctly the ICM / box dose this.
Also the ICM / box gets this from the pickup coil in the distributor. I know you checked it with a meter as pre the book but wonder if you can test to opening & breaking of the field?

 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by headtube
Well, I’m baffled by this situation now. All tests check out in my favour, yet I continue to have no spark. The pick up coil checks out good. The positive side of the coil tests at 6.86V. Gets warm when key left on. There’s power going to the ICM red wire. All red wires test power on with test light. There is a gap at the pickup coil, no rubbing. There’s even the sound of spark when I move the pickup coil slightly toward the reluctor wheel (very small play here). I don’t understand what this might be. Starter solenoid? Key ignition switch? Bizzarre!
You are correct, your tests check out good.
Test for spark at the coil wire, it been said that you can hit the distributor with a screw driver handle and create a single spark. I think that this is from kr98664, it's not something I have ever tried. It seems a little magical to me.

How much play in the rotor? Is the rotor going around? Did the shear pin break on the distributor gear?
If it makes you feel any better.... It should work, based on your testing.
Jim
 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
You are correct, your tests check out good.
Test for spark at the coil wire, it been said that you can hit the distributor with a screw driver handle and create a single spark. I think that this is from kr98664, it's not something I have ever tried. It seems a little magical to me.

How much play in the rotor? Is the rotor going around? Did the shear pin break on the distributor gear?
If it makes you feel any better.... It should work, based on your testing.
Jim
This is a good point. I did not re-read the whole thread, but does the rotor actually turn when you crank the engine over with the dist cap off?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 06:46 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
You are correct, your tests check out good.
Test for spark at the coil wire, it been said that you can hit the distributor with a screw driver handle and create a single spark. I think that this is from kr98664, it's not something I have ever tried. It seems a little magical to me.

How much play in the rotor? Is the rotor going around? Did the shear pin break on the distributor gear?
If it makes you feel any better.... It should work, based on your testing.
Jim
A bit of up and down and side to side play in the rotor shaft. Nothing excessive. Sheer pin intact. Dizzy spinning the rotor as normal. I’ve tried another coil also with no change. Wiring is good, no oxidation/corrosion at connections.

Could the ignition switch on the steering column give a no spark situation?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2025 | 06:50 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by headtube
A bit of up and down and side to side play in the rotor shaft. Nothing excessive. Sheer pin intact. Dizzy spinning the rotor as normal. I’ve tried another coil also with no change. Wiring is good, no oxidation/corrosion at connections.

Could the ignition switch on the steering column give a no spark situation?
Don't get side tracked. You had good voltage at the coil. That comes from the ignition switch.
 
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