Head upgrade?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Thanks but this is not a cover up question. It’s a totally different subject is why I started another thread. I’m in the middle of changing lifters because cylinder 5 or 6 was tapping loud. While taking intake off to replace lifters, I broke off bolts. Now I want aluminum heads. I might not exactly know what I’m doing down to the t but I definitely know how not to mess up an engine. That’s why I’m doing research and schooling myself along with talking to nice guys like yourself to try to learn from people who’s been in my shoes before. I not randomly doing anything
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
can the gt40s utilize the rocker bolts instead of studs? I like the simplicity of not having to shim for valve lash
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Way too much head for stock block.
That will cost you about 7-1000. How do I know?, cause those are the heads I bought.
you will need to notch or get different pistons, 2.02 valves do not have the radial clearance, and will hit the piston.
get afr 160/165, probably cheaper than Edelbrock.
That will cost you about 7-1000. How do I know?, cause those are the heads I bought.
you will need to notch or get different pistons, 2.02 valves do not have the radial clearance, and will hit the piston.
get afr 160/165, probably cheaper than Edelbrock.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
is it bad to reuse rods, rockers and springs I already have? Maybe because of my lifter problem I should just get new springs?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 408
From: NE Ohio
Springs are more dependent on what camshaft you want to use.. Lift/spring rate, etc... Stock 5.0/351/5.8L is quite mild at less than .450Lift Anything more will require new 'other than stock' springs. Best to follow your cam recommendations.. Most OEM Ford heads max out at .520-ish lift, so anything more than that,you are looking at $$$$
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 408
From: NE Ohio
That is also dependent on the camshaft/cam timing events...'Claying' your block height/piston height/chamber/valve size combination is your best bet!
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Lead Driver
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I was saying he will have to get rid of the e7's on the reman engine. Jest, but not really
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,338
Likes: 293
From: Laramie, WY
Sounds like a somewhat tight budget project. Personally I wouldn't worry about the weight difference one bit between steel and alloy heads. With wanting to stay at 19#/hr injectors, a freshened set of GT40 from the junkyard and some long tube headers would be my move. Alex's Parts sells a nice spring kit for a mild lift setup if you wanted to replace them.
A 1995 351W is already a roller lifter setup, or it should be. The factory roller cam isn't terrible for a truck motor. I'm still running it. If you have the budget after heads and exhaust, some 1.7:1 roller rockers will get a bit more out of the stock cam. Or swap to a 35-512-8 cam instead and keep the 1.6:1 factory rockers, just going to be a little more money.
By the time the engine is air starved by the intake you're outside the realm of stock injectors. It would be the last thing I swapped, with the understanding that you'll need tuning.
A 1995 351W is already a roller lifter setup, or it should be. The factory roller cam isn't terrible for a truck motor. I'm still running it. If you have the budget after heads and exhaust, some 1.7:1 roller rockers will get a bit more out of the stock cam. Or swap to a 35-512-8 cam instead and keep the 1.6:1 factory rockers, just going to be a little more money.
By the time the engine is air starved by the intake you're outside the realm of stock injectors. It would be the last thing I swapped, with the understanding that you'll need tuning.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 408
From: NE Ohio
The old Ford Motorsport Y-302, X-303 and X-305 are all 'GT40-ish' variants. They used to be found quite frequently on eBay. Really old school would be the J-302s, but those had revised exhaust ports with staggered bolt flanges. My one buddy is still running ancient J-302s on the 347 in his Pinto Wagon drag car (ran 10.40s @ 124 back when our local track was still quarter-mile)
There are cheap aluminum heads out there, <$1k/pr, but remember you'll also need hardened pushrods, and adjustable rockers...
I bought my last new SBF heads over ten years ago, so I'm waaaay out of the loop as to what is out there for how much $$$$ today...
There are cheap aluminum heads out there, <$1k/pr, but remember you'll also need hardened pushrods, and adjustable rockers...
I bought my last new SBF heads over ten years ago, so I'm waaaay out of the loop as to what is out there for how much $$$$ today...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
I’m at a toss up between the gt40 heads and the afr 1472 165cc heads that wwhite mentioned above. Can someone help weigh the pros and cons? The afr heads seem to be the only aluminum heads I can find with the right valve clearance for my stock cam and pistons. I love the price of the gt40s but I love the look of aluminum. Are afr heads of good quality? Also what’s the difference in gt40 and gt40p?I’m only finding the p variant for sale
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Way too much head for stock block.
That will cost you about 7-1000. How do I know?, cause those are the heads I bought.
you will need to notch or get different pistons, 2.02 valves do not have the radial clearance, and will hit the piston.
get afr 160/165, probably cheaper than Edelbrock.
That will cost you about 7-1000. How do I know?, cause those are the heads I bought.
you will need to notch or get different pistons, 2.02 valves do not have the radial clearance, and will hit the piston.
get afr 160/165, probably cheaper than Edelbrock.