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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Missing at idle

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Old May 19, 2025 | 07:40 AM
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Missing at idle

Have a 1981 f100 with a 300 6 cyl. At idle it misses. Not a constant miss just every few seconds.
New plugs ,wires, distributor cap and rotor button. When you rev it higher it sounds like it stops missing.
Ideas?
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by apeckham
New plugs ,wires, distributor cap and rotor button…
Is the problem new after replacing these parts? Or were they changed trying to correct the problem, but did not help?


 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 11:00 AM
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Tell us you did not use the new platinum style plugs or something like that. These trucks like the old copper champion plugs.
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by apeckham
Have a 1981 f100 with a 300 6 cyl. At idle it misses. Not a constant miss just every few seconds.
New plugs ,wires, distributor cap and rotor button. When you rev it higher it sounds like it stops missing.
Ideas?
Mess with the idle mixture adjustment screw a little bit and see if you can tune it out.
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 03:07 PM
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I used the copper plugs, it was missing before I changed everything
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 05:27 PM
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I agree with Franklin, try closing the idle mixture screw all the way, counting the turns as you go. Gently seat the screw. Gently. I said gently twice so you don't damage the seat. Then turn it out the same number of turns it took to close it. Should be around 1.5 to 2 turns. Clearing the jet by turning in the screw will often heal a weak idle.
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 07:40 PM
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Also, check the spark plug wire orientation. If incorrect, it can cause a crossfire.
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 07:51 PM
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Is this a Duraspark system? If so, check for wear marks on the face of the distributor pickup coil. My experience here, complete with pictures and a heart-warming resolution:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tator-gap.html

Also check the flexible wires to the pickup coil. They can rub against the distributor body and wear through the insulation.

 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by apeckham
I used the copper plugs, it was missing before I changed everything
Tell us you did a compression test on the motor when the plug were out.
If you have a low hole that can cause a miss.

As for doing the test hot or cold and the throttle at wide open who works on a hot motor?
I have never dont a WOT compression test and as I cant see it making that much of a difference.
You are looking for even compression across all holes high or low but if too low can cause uses I would say no lower than 100 PSI.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2
I agree with Franklin, try closing the idle mixture screw all the way, counting the turns as you go. Gently seat the screw. Gently. I said gently twice so you don't damage the seat. Then turn it out the same number of turns it took to close it. Should be around 1.5 to 2 turns. Clearing the jet by turning in the screw will often heal a weak idle.
This has a Carter 1bbl carb. Where are the idle mixture screw located? I know there is a screw located on the left side of the carb as you're facing the truck.
 
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Old May 19, 2025 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Tell us you did a compression test on the motor when the plug were out.
If you have a low hole that can cause a miss.

As for doing the test hot or cold and the throttle at wide open who works on a hot motor?
I have never dont a WOT compression test and as I cant see it making that much of a difference.
You are looking for even compression across all holes high or low but if too low can cause uses I would say no lower than 100 PSI.
Dave ----
I haven't done a compression test yet,but it's next on my list
 
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Old May 20, 2025 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by apeckham
This has a Carter 1bbl carb. Where are the idle mixture screw located? I know there is a screw located on the left side of the carb as you're facing the truck.
There is a diagram of the Carter YF here:

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html

Click on the Walker tab. Part number 48 is the idle mixture needle valve.
 
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Old May 20, 2025 | 05:37 AM
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If you dont have a compression gauge also pick up a vacuum gauge as that can be used to adjust the carb.
After you lightly turn the idle mix screw in counting turns and back out to where it was get the motor up to temp.
Hook the vacuum gauge up to manifold vacuum and turn the idle mix screw in and out to get the highest vacuum reading on the gauge and if you want turn in 1/8 to 1/4 turn and see how it idles.

Also what is the timing set to? I think factory is around 6* BTDC you can bump this up to 10* BTDC or a little more if you dont get pinging or hot restart kick back.
IIRC mine is around 12* BTDC but I do get a little pinging under load and low RPM of around 1000 RPM in overdrive @ 35 - 40 MPH
When I get pinging I just back out of the throttle a little or pull it out of overdrive.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 20, 2025 | 06:13 AM
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Sticker says 10 btdc , I've messed with it from 12 degrees to 0 degrees, still has the occasional miss at idle and it pings at load
 
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Old May 20, 2025 | 06:51 AM
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Definitely pick up a vacuum gauge, it will tell you a lot.
Try some different gasoline even some premium fuel.
see if it makes a difference. you posted you have some pinging.
You don't have to run it for ever.
I have found the quality of gas varies .
These distributors will wear out, check for slop in the shaft and marks on the pick up unit.
 
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