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Hi, I bought a vacuum gauge to set my idle mixture screws (learning). What port on the carb do I hook it it up to? When standing in front of it. There is a small one to the left that is empty. The center large for the PCV and on the right another small that leads to the distributor
Anything that reads vacuum at idle will work, preferably directly from the intake manifold. One port on the carb will not have a reading at idle. Depending on what you have access to you might need to make a tee and connect into an existing system.
Anything that reads vacuum at idle will work, preferably directly from the intake manifold. One port on the carb will not have a reading at idle. Depending on what you have access to you might need to make a tee and connect into an existing system.
okay I found it. So I adjusted the mixture screws but still no reading change. It bounces between 10-15, no matter the change of the screws. What would cause that.
https://www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/post/engine-vacuum-troubleshooting
Common Vacuum Test Results:
Normal Engine: On most engines, accelerate to around 2000 rpm and then quickly release the throttle. The engine should snap right back to a steady 17- 21″hg vacuum.
Steady low between 5-10″hg vacuum: This indicates that the engine has a leak in the intake manifold or the intake gasket.
Steady low between 10-15″hg vacuum: This reading indicates late valve timing. There’s a chance the vehicle has jumped timing. Check the timing belt or chain depending on the application.
Steady low between 15-18″hg vacuum: This low reading indicates retarded ignition timing. Advance the timing on the distributor to correct this problem, and recheck vacuum.
Fluctuating Needle: A fluctuating needle indicates there’s a problem with a valve or a there’s an engine misfire.
Needle drops during acceleration: If the needle drops steady during acceleration there’s a restriction in the exhaust or intake. This is typically due to a clogged muffler or exhaust system.