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Next on my to do list is patching up driver side floor, rocker, and cab corner. Outside my wheel house of experience but going to give it gol. I started building a cart at summit but looking for recommendations from those who know.
also have a wire feed, flux core HF welder..the cheap one. It was free it is what I have..going to make my life easier if I get something that uses gas?
My primary sheet metal source on my current project '53 F100 has been Auto Metal Direct. Been very satisfied with the quality/fit. I understand the value of a free MIG machine, but gas shielded MIG is way mo' better. And a bit of unsolicited advice -- If your replacing lower cab corners, lower cowl corners, or doing any work on the lower part of the front or rear door pillars, check the door gap as you progress. Just tack new pieces until you've confirmed the fit. This assumes, of course, that you had an acceptable door fit to start with.
My primary sheet metal source on my current project '53 F100 has been Auto Metal Direct. Been very satisfied with the quality/fit. I understand the value of a free MIG machine, but gas shielded MIG is way mo' better. And a bit of unsolicited advice -- If your replacing lower cab corners, lower cowl corners, or doing any work on the lower part of the front or rear door pillars, check the door gap as you progress. Just tack new pieces until you've confirmed the fit. This assumes, of course, that you had an acceptable door fit to start with.
Thats the brand of metal I am seeing at Summit, looking to see if they put a memorial day promo out there that saves me some $$. Good to hear you had good luck with it, thx. I will have to take pricing the mig. I did not want to steel too much from parts $$ but the more I look the more metal needs attention.
If you go cheap on the welder you might be buying replacement replacement panels. Yes that was on purpose, you might booger up your first set of panels so bad you'll buy a second set. Check Eastwood for holiday sales on welders. A buddy saved over $200 over the holidays sale on one of their welders and loves it.
My primary sheet metal source on my current project '53 F100 has been Auto Metal Direct. Been very satisfied with the quality/fit. I understand the value of a free MIG machine, but gas shielded MIG is way mo' better. And a bit of unsolicited advice -- If your replacing lower cab corners, lower cowl corners, or doing any work on the lower part of the front or rear door pillars,check the door gap as you progress. Just tack new pieces until you've confirmed the fit.This assumes, of course, that you had an acceptable door fit to start with.
This is some of the best advice you can get when working on the cab.
Your call, your money. But a good gas mig welder will make a lot of difference. Look for a well known brand name, Lincoln, Miller or Hobart. You can often find them used. I've see guys using the cheaper ones and it does not end well most of the time. And flux core wire is messy.
When I started my project 55 F100, I needed to replace both front floor panels, both rear cab corners, both rockers, both lower front cab corners and the lower part of both sides of the firewall. I sourced the sheet metal from Midfifty Ford Parts (no longer in business) Dennis Carpenter, and LMC. My experience has been that none of them have fit perfectly without modification/massaging! I don't think it really matters much which vender you purchase them from, and I looked for the best deal I could get at the time.
I already had a cheap Lincoln welder that came from either Lowes or Home Depot, I don't remember which. It came with a mig regulator, but I had always used it with flux cored wire. When I started on the truck sheet metal, it didn't take me long to switch it over to Mig. I don't use the entire replacement panel either, only what I need to use in order to complete the work.
Before I started any body panel replacements, I bought a few steel fence post from Tractor supply. I used these to reinforce/stiffen the cab by tack welding them in place and to each other. As I performed the panel replacements, I found that I had to /modify my support system, by cutting out parts of it, however before I cut them out, I added new bracing as needed, to maintain strength.
As a side note, Midwest Early Ford Parts, will deliver your order to a number of events, for free. These events are list on their website. Other vendors may have this service as well.
Lastly, I use a common method of welding in the panels, that I have seen called, stitch welding. It's a simple method, that works well for me. I begin by placing a single bead of weld, once I have the panel in alignment. Then a few more to hold it in place. Once I am finished with that, I return to the first bead, and place a second bead about an inch from it, then move an inch and place another, then again and again, until i wind up back at the first bead. Then i place another bead there and continue the process until I have the entire panel welded in.
I hope I have been able to assist you and good luck with your project.
I have various welders, some I can use good enough, and others not so much. In today's market there's no reason not to buy TIG, here's one you may want to look at: https://yeswelder.com/collections/ti...elder-tig-205p
Given the nature of the thin metals you will be working with doing cab repair, any of these small machines will work just fine and you won't feel obligated to open a welding shop to justify the expense.
Appreciate tips! I will work on the parts sourcing this week and keep on the look out for a well priced used one. Had not considered Tig so o will need to do a little home work on the type of welding. I already have door gap issues as the leading edges are rubbing tight on the forward edges. Passenger side is a lot better rust wise as door glass was gone on the drivers when I got it but still runs hard pops when you open it.
driver side pictured this maybe getting a little ahead myself try to fits these until I fixe the drivers floor?
Opinions on these two welders at $450? Both come with bottles which looking at used seems to make the better deal in my minds eye.
I can't speak for the welders, as I'm not familiar with them
You do need to see if the bottles are owned or leased.
Mine, for example, belongs to American Welding Gas and I have to pay a rental fee every year. Even if I don't use it.
If they are owned, you need to find out if they can be exchanged or filled locally. Otherwise, they are of no use. Also, if owned and refilled, they will eventually need to be static tested, or they won't refill them. The test can be nearly as much as a replacement bottle.
Not intended to scare you away from them, but these are questions that need to be answered when determining if they are a good deal.
Opinions on these two welders at $450? Both come with bottles which looking at used seems to make the better deal in my minds eye.
Research to see who makes welders for Matco. It's probably fine but it would be nice to know the manufacturer if you ever needed parts for it. Is there somewhere that will service it? Clarke is a good brand (afaik) but that one doesn't seem to have a lot of controls and appears to be a more basic and entry level machine. It may be fine if all you'll ever do with it is sheet metal repair, if it will power down enough, but as you get better and gain talent you may want a better machine in the future. Again, check for service and parts availability. See if either of them can be set up to use .023 wire for welding light sheet metal. If .030 is the smallest it can use, you may want to rethink it. The Matco may be more versatile. See if you can find out how many miles are on them. If one's been used hard and the other has only had light home use and only had a couple rolls of wire through it, that may be a consideration. That's my 2c.
I can't speak for the welders, as I'm not familiar with them
You do need to see if the bottles are owned or leased.
Mine, for example, belongs to American Welding Gas and I have to pay a rental fee every year. Even if I don't use it.
If they are owned, you need to find out if they can be exchanged or filled locally. Otherwise, they are of no use. Also, if owned and refilled, they will eventually need to be static tested, or they won't refill them. The test can be nearly as much as a replacement bottle.
Not intended to scare you away from them, but these are questions that need to be answered when determining if they are a good deal.
Originally Posted by 52 Merc
Research to see who makes welders for Matco. It's probably fine but it would be nice to know the manufacturer if you ever needed parts for it. Is there somewhere that will service it? Clarke is a good brand (afaik) but that one doesn't seem to have a lot of controls and appears to be a more basic and entry level machine. It may be fine if all you'll ever do with it is sheet metal repair, if it will power down enough, but as you get better and gain talent you may want a better machine in the future. Again, check for service and parts availability. See if either of them can be set up to use .023 wire for welding light sheet metal. If .030 is the smallest it can use, you may want to rethink it. The Matco may be more versatile. See if you can find out how many miles are on them. If one's been used hard and the other has only had light home use and only had a couple rolls of wire through it, that may be a consideration. That's my 2c.
appreciate the feedback back tips. The Matco is noted as a Lincoln/century but neither of these indicate what wire they can run.. I assumed the bottles would have been paid for and you could exchange, probably should not assume that! I will send out some questions to the Matco guy..he is significantly closer to me.
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