Hi guys… I hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

So, a slightly odd issue here that I am hoping you can help with.

First, the truck… it is my 2006 Ford F250SD with V10, automatic, 4x4, crew cab. 189,000 miles.

I have driven it about 3,000 miles now. And it is a real sweetheart, I love my truck without a doubt and we thank the Lord for it. But, it does something a little odd from time to time. It sometimes dies at slower speeds. At 30 or below, occasionally (like once every 500 miles or so?) the engine dies. Yes, at times on the roadway, at times in parking lots, like pulling into a slot. After it dies, once I stop, put it in park and hit the key, it starts right up every time and it all goes away for hundreds of miles before it pops up again.

It never does it at highway speeds (I am usually driving at a consistent 2,000 RPMish), and it may not do it under load at all. It might always be while I am off the gas (I am unsure but believe that might be the case) but it does do it both when “flying by hand” and while using cruise control.

I am just coming off chemotherapy and I can tell you that the truck idles perfectly fine while it was warming up (for my body’s needs, not the trucks!) on my cancer center days. I had to have the truck warm so I would let it idle for 15-20 minutes every one of those days and there were many of those, maybe 30+ days (2 times a day) like that.

No engine light, no codes, nothing. Gauges are all ideal, can’t look any better! It just randomly dies. It hasn’t really been a problem because it always starts right back up without issue and drives for many miles without trouble.

Any ideas my friends?

Thank you for your time on this…


Rand

 

I had a somewhat simular issue with my truck a few years ago. It ran great in all forward gears, but when I put it in reverse, it died. It turned out to be the electronically controlled throttle.
I also heard of a story where someones truck was dying when going over bumps, that turned out to be a damaged loose wire that was hitting the transmission case and shorting out.
Anyway, heres some things to check/do:

1. Check all wires and connections
2. check vacuum lines
3. perform a throttle body relearn
4. Perform a torque converter stall test
5. Check fuel lines and pressure

hope you find out whats going on!

 

Hi Mykah! Thanks for the suggestions and I will keep them in mind. I appreciate your reminders and suggestions.

I had another shutdown yesterday while headed up a steep hill at about 20 mph. This big beautiful blue pickup of mine has zero forward momentum once that sweet V10 decides to nod off. Hahaha! The good news is that there was nobody behind me and I was able to just put it back in park and start it right up, finished climbing up the hill.

Checked the codes once I got home, about 5 hours and 150 miles later and… you guessed it… all green and go, no DTC’s. I have an Innova 3100j code reader and I did a Ford Enhanced test battery, both KOEO and KOER.

KOEO reports a P1464, which might be ancient for all I know. I don’t seem to have any A/C issues honestly, it seems plenty cold right now. I don’t think that could have anything to do with the random shutdowns, right guys?

The KEOR test reports the same P1464, nothing more.

Sstill taking bids on what might be going on here, anyone else with this kind of experience? Thanks guys!

Rand

 

Ignition switch? I had one of the GM cars years ago that got recalled for the switch failing. It tended to like to die on corners.

 

Most likely the reason your getting code p1464 is because you didn't turn off the climate system when you did the key on engine on test. Even if that isn't the case, it shouldn't cause engine stalling. As noted by another user, it could be your ignition switch. Mines kinda touchy and the truck still thinks the keys are in the ignition even when they aren't. Those things do wear out.

 

Okay guys… so, this brings up a really great question. Ignition switch. I have never done one of these. And, to be frank, I had no idea what one looked like until today - potentially. Here is what comes up for ignition switch on Autozone:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...436/201357_0_0

Now, you say ignition switch and I think the cylinder lock on the steering column. This is obviously not that. So, the reason this interests me is because a few reviews on the Autozone website reference how their trucks shift linkage was repaired by changing this ignition switch unit. Well, guess who just so happens to have trouble with their transmission shift linkage? You guessed it. Me.

I was speaking to my wife yesterday and proposed that it might have something to do with the auto tranny shift linkage not being quite right, it makes some odd clicking sounds when I shift and it is kind of difficult for me to get it in the proper gear at all times. I asked her if she thought it was possible that the shifter might be slightly out of alignment and is sending some odd signals to the computer and it has no idea what to do with them, so it might shut it down. Remember, I always shift back into park before restarting and that seems to always work fine, it restarts perfectly every time. It is true that I have to kind of hunt around for it to get into drive or reverse, but I had kind of gotten used to that process. The gear position indicator is usually about on the edge of each letter, so it is never centered on the shift indicator itself, always shifted off either to the right or the left and like it said above, it does make an odd clicking sound when I shift gears and then try to get the shifter on the column to seat properly.

Since I have no experience with this subsystem, is it true that this part (shown above) is the ignition switch module I would need, and does t have anything to do with the gear shift indicator or selecting the proper OD, 3, R, etc. ? If so, you guys might have put me on the right trail.

I am cautiously optimistic we might be onto something, but will await hearing from you guys on your thoughts.

Thank you, I assure you that I appreciate all you are doing to help me get to the bottom of this.

Rand

 

My 2011 F350 kept stalling. I finally tracked down a bad positive battery cable.

Check the battery cables - inspect for corrosion, bend the cables back and forth (especially at the ends) to check for loose or broken wires, If you have a DVOM measure resistance through the cable. Also inspect and/or replace the PCM relay and fuel pump relay.

 

Your stalling out sounds like the fuel pump relay problem a lot of us had. I do not know if the 2006's still had the micro relay or went back to external ones by then. Someone that knows should be along shortly. If they are the micros that are embedded in the junction box (fuse box) you'll need to do a bypass unless you want to buy a entire new box. If they are back to normal external relays, you can just swap it out. The only caveat I have on this one is that most of the time with the relay problem, they don;t start back up immediately. Usually have to sit for a random amount of time until the relay decides to work.

If it turns out to be the relay, check out the V10 forum, lots of threads on this there. Search my name there and you'll find one with step by step instructions for the bypass as well as pisc that another member added later.

The linkage issue is an interesting take on this. Not sure if that would cause it, but I guess it could. Mine is loose too and I have just been too lazy to go fix it, but it's never caused me to stall out either. There's a thread here on that too. It's basically just tightening two torx screws on the steering column if I remember right.

 

The P1464 is probably causing the self tests to not complete. Set the climate to off and run them again. Also look for a P0231 stored.

 

Hi Deezal, and all… I appreciate the input! I do have a digital multimeter, and will gladly use it.

Can you tell me what kind of resistance I sure consider either reasonable or outside of tolerance?

Thanks for the quick tip there guys…

I will also run the self test again with my code reader later today. It’s raining here this morning but the weather is supposed to change later at this point.

Rand

 

Good morning all…

Just a quick update… I did the KOER enhanced tests again and got a new code, which is interesting. I turned the A/C system off before testing and now got a single new code: P0505… Idle Air System. However, I do not get that as a stored DTC or a check engine light of any kind.

Nor do I consider my dear pickup to run rough, or idle low. My idle speed with A/C off, engine warm is a needle below the 750 tic mark on the tach. Do you guys think that is unusually low? I have never detected a rough idle or rough running at any point, even .5 seconds prior to the random shutdowns.

Mykah, above, suggested a vacuum leak. I will likely look at that too here soon, if I can get it to quit raining. It was supposed to be super nice weather for the next week, but like so often on the Oregon Coast, “free beer tomorrow”, is always that, “better weather tomorrow”, and is rarely ever true. Hahahaha!

Rand

 

Hey guys, I just found this TSB: TSB 08-18-2.

https://stangnet.com/images/stories/...s/08-18-02.pdf

My model is in the list, and I am wondering if this might help me. Is there anything I can do about this throttle body clean myself? I did one once on our 2007 Focus and, after completing it, found out that the throttle body had a special coating which I had removed in my intense desire to clean it. Hahahaha!

And, I would imagine a reprogram of the PCM to be outside of my realm of reality as a shade tree mechanic type without the Blue Oval training program certification.

Still thinking that vacuum lines might be involved, and will check them out. Also, still hoping to hear the proper resistance numbers for the battery cable check. Not in a terrible hurry today because yes, it is still raining. Ha!


Rand

 

Might be a bad idle air control valve. Although normally you would see a rough or higher idle with that. My truck idles around 1100 when cold and about 800 when warmed up. 750 rpms is fine. Im kinda stumped on that now, lol.
Im on the oregon coast too and yeah, the weather is not very compatible with my personal truck maintenance schedule, lol.

 

Hi Mykah! I appreciate your help here. I have fixed many a thing on a vehicle, but the idle air control valve is not one of those things. I will have to look into it. As it is, I seem to be finding it hard to find it at NAPA, O’Reilly’s, or Autozone, the places we have near me here. Is this a dealer only kind of part?

Rand

 

I would recommend just cleaning both the Idle air control valve and the mass airflow sensor before replacing anything. while your at it double check all your vacuum lines and connections.