Well the discovery on my 2011 F250SD has revealed an A/C compressor locked solid.... with no belt, I cannot get it to budge so concluding that "she's dead Jim". Watched a couple videos and scanned related forums.... it seems if you get 10 years out of one of these, that tends to be the life expectancy.

Seems it is a tight squeeze, but folks are taking the compressors out of the bottom. Since my unit is locked solid I'm going to presume that there is metal debris now in the HIGH side line heading toward the condenser. From what I read & understand, these systems use the parallel type condensers which cannot be flushed. I'm sure the high side line can be flushed but I suspect I'm looking at a replacement condenser as well.

For those who have been down this road, was your orifice tube plugged up or did all the debris stop at the condenser inlet? I know the old school A/C guys automatically changed orifice tube & accumulator when a compressor locked down solid for fear of debris ruining the new one.

Looking for those with experience on these A/C systems.... is there another sub forum since this isn't unique to the 6.7L ?

 

My 19 was locked solid when I drove it this spring, it had sat for about 2 months. I bought everything, removed the compressor from the bottom, dis assembled it, no damage to the compressor. But there wasn't any oil in it. So I only changed the compressor,

 

My “locked compressor“ was on a ‘00 F-250 and it turned out to be a failed clutch bearing. So I was also able to get by with just changing the compressor, orifice, and accumulator.

Pull your orifice. If it’s not full of metal debris you may be lucky too. Or at least as lucky as possible when still needing to replace A/C components.

 

Well yesterday I removed all the engine bay components. Dead compressor came out the bottom, had to remove the passenger side steering link to gain enough clearance and the compressor JUST fits between the frame and suspension.

Pulled the condenser out and inspected for debris... and the orifice tube, On the HIGH side line from compressor to condenser entry, I saw some tiny shiny specs, which I'm going to suspect are metallic debris from the dead compressor. Closely inspected the hard lines and hoses leaving the condenser (high pressure liquid/gas mixture) in search of the orifice tube. There's nothing in that liquid HIGH line all the way to the bulkhead fitting going into the cab. I've concluded the 2011 F250SD must use a TEV which lives in the dash area right before the evaporator circuit.

The HIGH side vapor line from compressor to condenser has a filter/screen looking enlarged chamber in the otherwise small line. I'm planning to back flush this line and see if I get debris. If that line is open WITHOUT debris, then I'll conclude the clutch destroyed itself and I have just a compressor replacement (along with some line flushing and a bunch of new seals & O-rings). I'll post up my findings......

EDIT - confirmed when ordering parts, the 2011 uses a TEV which bolts directly to the firewall.... right behind where the high pressure liquid and low pressure vapor lines attached. Pair of 4mm allens hold it fast. Very little working room there; fortunately I have a mini-ratchet with hex bits so planning on that guy to R & R.

 

Status update:

Dead A/C compressor indeed came out the bottom; required disconnect of the pass. side inner tie rod from the center link. Steering fork came in handy to separate the tapered tie rod ball, but destroyed the boot in the process. Confirmed the compressor was original from 2011. Since metal fragments were observed in the high pressure gas line (compressor -> condenser) opted to change the condenser since the amount of contamination was unknown. Fired the parts cannon and bought all NEW hoses (3 in total) as well as the compressor and expansion valve. Pretty much a complete Stage Zero A/C rebuild. I drained the compressor from what PAG oil came with it (some leaked, soaked the box lining) and installed 4 oz. (half bottle PAG 46) per recommendation of Ford Tech A-Rod.

Hopefully we are pulling the vacuum today and confirm the system is to the German standard "Guten TIte"......

 

I don’t know about ford vehicles but some vehicles have a filter drier in the condenser or before it.

 

This one comes with a desiccant bag built into the condenser. I've seen plenty of filter/accumulator/dryer units right after the evaporator exit and prior to the suction hose to the compressor. FORD designed this one differently; straight out of the evaporator low pressure gas port to the compressor with just a hardline/hose between them.

 

Next status update:

Reassembly is complete. Installed the new expansion valve; bolts into the firewall using a LONG pair of 4mm hex socket heads. A little tight, but a 4mm hex driver bit, swivel adapter and a 3/8" ratchet is all that is needed to R&R. The FORD part comes with the new gaskets (inside); the FoMoCo hoses on the outside have the needed gaskets. In all I replaced every hose in the engine bay; kept the hard pipe J piece which connected to the high pressure gas side (top) of the accumulator. OE hoses are a joy, after attempting CHI_WAN_ESE aftermarket hoses on Volvo's in the past (never again, nothing fits). 100% new gaskets at every connection; I lubed them all with the extra PAG 46 oil I had onhand. For the record, the serpentine hose went better than expected. Used a 1/2" ratchet with 3/8" reducer (for the tensioner) and my cheater pipe on the ratchet... it takes a fair bit of stroke to rotate the tensioner enough to get the dual V belt (2011 only I'm told) over the sheaves. Basically I followed the recommendation of A-Rod and his sequence works nicely.

Fired the beast up, and she started immediately! Since it's cool here tomorrow morning, I'm driving it back home to GA and will charge the AC up there.

Total new parts purchased from RockAuto: FoMoCo belt, GM Gold idlers and tensioner, Everything else FORD including compressor, 3 lines, expansion valve, and condenser.

I'll post up cooling statistics once she is charged with R134a.

 

You may know this, but don’t plug the compressor clutch in until you’re ready to charge the system. The HVAC system may run the compressor when you don’t expect it to. The pressure switch is the only thing protecting it until your system is charged.

 

Good tip, thanks! Boy, that connector is a bugger to reach.... I'm going to check my manual and see if there is a fuse above the A/C system that I could pull to confirm it cannot be switched on.

 

Final Update:

My truck's AC system has been restored. Pulled a full vacuum and then isolated the system; waited 10+ minutes and the gauge needles never moved. Weighed in a proper charge (740 grams per the FoMoCo label). Compressor got 4 oz. of PAG 46 oil prior to installation (the reason they supply them with the sealed caps, so it doesn't run out as you fish the bugger UP into position on the 6.7L). As my Dad taught me, I weighed in the R134a using a digital scale. Actual weight is key for this type of refrigerant as the performance is quite "peaky".... you don't want to be over/under charged (which old R12 was much more tolerant of). When the original compressor failed, it took the fuse out with it (I think #46) that lives in the cramped engine bay panel near the driver side hood hinge. I plan to replace the FoMoCo tiny micro relay, as the top of it is cracked.... but it still functions.

The repair wasn't cheap, but I'm sure if a FORD garage had done this same job it would have been $3K to $4K! I learned a lot about the accessories on my 2011 6.7L. Since my truck has 148K on it now, perhaps this winter I'll plan to revisit the water pumps..... need to find out how many miles those are expected to operate before failure.