Does front seal main require moving water pump?
2000 F150 4.2 4wd

doss this forum have signatures?

 

Click on your screen name on the upper right (if you're on a computer) and a menu will pop open. Edit signature is there.

The seal can be replaced without removing the water pump. The damper does need removing though. Here's a good real-world video, shows all of the typical problems a person might encounter.

Different year but they're all about the same.

 

On phone see edit details but don’t see anything saying signature just bio.
mine is a 2000

 

Log on with a PC sometime and set all that stuff up
4.2 is the same as an old 3,8
Pretty easy job once you get the damper removed
I use an Ice pick and poke a hole in the seal, then a hex head metal screw to screw into the hole and pull the seal out
To make it even easier, you could buy the seal installer. I and most techs just use the correct size deep socket

 

theres the sleeve option or buying a new harmonic balance. Do harm balancers go bad or wouldnt the leaking oil cause damage to rubber on the harmonic balancer??

 

Harmonic balancers
They do go bad but not often
I have replaced about 4 in 40 years
A speedy sleeve is usually sufficient
As far as oil ruing the rubber, that also needs to be a ton of oil for a real long time
The malleable iron inertia ring they call it, will shift and start coming off
Doubt yours is that bad yet

 

i wonder if you could do from under truck on ramps and not have to remove as much stuff

 

I’ve replaced everything but one idler, water pump and harmonic balancer and still getting a noise or squeal even after replacing fan clutch. Leaning towards water pump or harmonic balancer.

 

only thing left is balancer water pump and bottom grooved pulley.

 

Is a front main seal easy or difficult? If easy I guess it’s difficult if new one becomes bent…

Advance sold me numerous rear seals .

 

Your last sentence above is confusing. Of course, a bent seal will be hard to install.

Good luck. Where did you get the new damper?

Link from your other thread -

 

They sold me the rear seal and none of the 3 stores had the front in stock. Finally had the front delivered to store and installed now the new Harmonic balance won’t go on far enough to get old bolt to thread. If a new bolt should be installed why wouldnt a new HB include the bolt. I’ve tried tapping with a hammer and tapping with a 4x4 wood piece and it won’t go on any further. No new key or bolt with new harmonic balancer.

 

Bc stupid autocorrect changed if to “of”

I despise autocorrect.

 

Did you compare the new one to the old one? The distance between the surface that seats inside and the bolt surface. Also, take the key out of the crank and test fit it in to the new damper. And, if you haven't taken it back apart yet, make sure that the key didn't slide up out of the keyway and get jammed behind the damper. The parts are simple but getting them all to fit together well can take some effort.

Dampers are sometimes almost an interference fit on the crankshaft. Very tight. On older cars sometimes you have to do some honing inside the damper surface.

I don't know about these later Fords. Might be you just got a tight one. Somebody out here has probably done one and will know. Make sure that you get it right, don't just crank things down and hope (no offense). A simple mistake can damage your crankshaft, requiring engine disassembly. Simple parts, very important.

 

someone told me you tap it on that doesn’t seem right. I probably need the loan a tool installer and then a new bolt.
if fact I just read you don’t tap or hit it bc it can mess up your thrush bearing inside.