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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 06:10 PM
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Traction bar install

Going with the S&B kit. The kit is the exact same kit I used on my prior truck.


 
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 06:11 PM
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 07:04 PM
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I went the cheap-o route, lol

https://activesuspension.com/pages/ras

Obviously, the S&B kit is like the Cadillac to my Yugo, but the RAS springs fit my particular use case more affordably...
 
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 07:22 PM
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I actually like the RAS springs.


my use case is I need rear axle being held in linear place moreso than axle wrap control.


there are a lot of road caverns from heavy trucks on the roads I drive and sometimes at speeds above 65 I feel the rear axle wiggling out of true . The truck has 27k miles so it’s not componet wear . Issue is the 37” tires amplifies the axle wiggle . Had this problem on my previous truck and the exact same traction bars held the rear axle in alignment.


its not a problem on good roads …just the junky ones with the deep depressions from heavy trucks.



 
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 07:47 PM
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I opted for the RAS springs not so much for axle wrap, but more for assisting with reducing rear end squat when I'm towing my utility trailers. It does a fantastic job doing that, and I can adjust the preload of the springs as necessary. Helps a little with sway, too.

I get the concept of the traction bars, it's the same principle as the ladder bars we used to put on our hot rods back in the 60's and 70's (for leaf spring suspensions, that is). Only that was for addressing high-torque acceleration. But, same principle, reduce wrap and keep the axle true (especially without posi-trac).

The cool thing about the S&B kit you show above is that it doesn't require welding. But, it is still an option if you didn't want to go with nuts and bolts. Good call, looks like a well-made kit.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2025 | 03:42 AM
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There are bolt on or weld instructions.

i initially was thinking weld on …but now thing today’s weld technology is going to send electrical surges through the frame and our trucks have to many modules so welding is probally risky. I have one of those clamp on surge arrestor but don’t want to find out the hard way if the arrestor . Doesn’t work.



 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
I actually like the RAS springs.


my use case is I need rear axle being held in linear place moreso than axle wrap control.


there are a lot of road caverns from heavy trucks on the roads I drive and sometimes at speeds above 65 I feel the rear axle wiggling out of true . The truck has 27k miles so it’s not componet wear . Issue is the 37” tires amplifies the axle wiggle . Had this problem on my previous truck and the exact same traction bars held the rear axle in alignment.


its not a problem on good roads …just the junky ones with the deep depressions from heavy trucks.
do you get that wriggling going through s-bends as well? I have 37s and I’ve just started noticing it - either something’s wearing or it’s normal and I missed it before.
 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
Going with the S&B kit. The kit is the exact same kit I used on my prior truck.
I'm glad you were able to find them since their website is no longer up. Pics when done would be cool.
 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
I actually like the RAS springs.


my use case is I need rear axle being held in linear place moreso than axle wrap control.


there are a lot of road caverns from heavy trucks on the roads I drive and sometimes at speeds above 65 I feel the rear axle wiggling out of true . The truck has 27k miles so it’s not component wear . Issue is the 37” tires amplifies the axle wiggle . Had this problem on my previous truck and the exact same traction bars held the rear axle in alignment.


its not a problem on good roads …just the junky ones with the deep depressions from heavy trucks.
Originally Posted by Euroman
do you get that wriggling going through s-bends as well? I have 37s and I’ve just started noticing it - either something’s wearing or it’s normal and I missed it before.
IMO, whenever you increase the size of tire you run, you are adding more weight and with a taller tire, the force is greater on the effect it has on the suspension designed to be used with stock sized tires and wheels that still wear out because parts do. Therefore, suspension components, like rubber leaf spring bushings, will wear quicker with a larger tire. Plus, the effect of driving through crap roads sucks with a heavy-duty truck with stock tires/wheels. It has to suck even more with a truck with bigger tires/wheels. Just my two cents.

And that wiggle you have to feeling Fritz has to be the factory rubber bushings twisting. Nothing else to flex like that in the **** end. Unless it's axle wrap, but driving at speed you and not accelerating, I don't think it's that.

I'm sure those tractions bars will help some though but can't see getting around those soft rubber bushings in the rear leaf springs with bigger tires on rough roads.

Just my two cents... I could be wrong.


 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
IMO, whenever you increase the size of tire you run, you are adding more weight and with a taller tire, the force is greater on the effect it has on the suspension designed to be used with stock sized tires and wheels that still wear out because parts do. Therefore, suspension components, like rubber leaf spring bushings, will wear quicker with a larger tire. Plus, the effect of driving through crap roads sucks with a heavy-duty truck with stock tires/wheels. It has to suck even more with a truck with bigger tires/wheels. Just my two cents.

And that wiggle you have to feeling Fritz has to be the factory rubber bushings twisting. Nothing else to flex like that in the **** end. Unless it's axle wrap, but driving at speed you and not accelerating, I don't think it's that.

I'm sure those tractions bars will help some though but can't see getting around those soft rubber bushings in the rear leaf springs with bigger tires on rough roads.

Just my two cents... I could be wrong.

those Australian bushing sort of look like elastomeric bushing we use in helicopters
they are thin pieces of stainless steel laminated with a rubber like compound so the bushing/bearing gives full movement, but it is held firm and reduces vibration feedback
last thousands of hours going round and round
 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 08:48 AM
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only when driving high speed within the deep road caverns of heavy trucks....mainly on apsalt highways at about 65mph+.

37" tires and 5" rear lift.

had this on my prior truck with the same setup and the exact same traction bars im going to install took care of it on my prior truck.

the oscillation can be best described as a slight counter steer at the rear as the rear tracks the deep gullies.

its not a balance type vibration ......you get the sense that both sides of the rear axle are moving forward and aft in opposite directions slightly in response to severe road imperfections.

if I was going to replace a shackle bushing...I would think only the front ones would make a difference since the rear is designed to move forward and aft becuase of the leaf hanger.
 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
only when driving high speed within the deep road caverns of heavy trucks....mainly on apsalt highways at about 65mph+.

‐----‐----------------------------------------------
>>>37" tires and 5" rear lift.<<<<
----------------------------------------------------

had this on my prior truck with the same setup and the exact same traction bars im going to install took care of it on my prior truck.

the oscillation can be best described as a slight counter steer at the rear as the rear tracks the deep gullies.

its not a balance type vibration ......you get the sense that both sides of the rear axle are moving forward and aft in opposite directions slightly in response to severe road imperfections.

if I was going to replace a shackle bushing...I would think only the front ones would make a difference since the rear is designed to move forward and aft becuase of the leaf hanger.
Nailed it.

Sounds like this is not your first rodeo...

Appreciate the comments.

Pics please.
 
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Old May 1, 2025 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
only when driving high speed within the deep road caverns of heavy trucks....mainly on apsalt highways at about 65mph+.

37" tires and 5" rear lift.

had this on my prior truck with the same setup and the exact same traction bars im going to install took care of it on my prior truck.

the oscillation can be best described as a slight counter steer at the rear as the rear tracks the deep gullies.

its not a balance type vibration ......you get the sense that both sides of the rear axle are moving forward and aft in opposite directions slightly in response to severe road imperfections.

if I was going to replace a shackle bushing...I would think only the front ones would make a difference since the rear is designed to move forward and aft becuase of the leaf hanger.
you just nailed my motorhome, it has 11 feet behind the rear wheels and a 266 wheel base so the smallest of wiggle is felt all the way up front
​​the rear does that exact thing
the way the air ride and panhandle bar are located it allows the off center track .
Gives the sidewalls he'll.
Fix was a big sway bar, and poly bushings in the two wide trailing arms.

Real fix is roads that don't cave🤣
 
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Old May 24, 2025 | 04:04 AM
  #14  
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Welding on your super dut pick-up :strongly recommended that you remove battery cables as I did not

[/QUOTE]
 
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Old May 27, 2025 | 09:28 AM
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If you weld on frame you need a zap catcher



 
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