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I’m really just wanting to by pass emissions and maybe squeeze some hp out also my solenoids (i think) are causing air fuel mix problems so getting rid of the efi wouldn’t be all the bad
How are the emissions and whatever solenoids you are talking about costing you horsepower or other problems? Have you ever checked for fault codes? There might be codes even though the light is not on. Is the fuel pressure in specs? What transmission do you have: manual or automatic? If auto does it have an overdrive cancel button on the dashboard?
I’m really just wanting to by pass emissions and maybe squeeze some hp out. also my solenoids (i think) are causing air fuel mix problems so getting rid of the efi wouldn’t be all the bad
There is a ton more HP just dying to get out of one of these early truck engines but... you need an intact and properly functioning EFI system to pass a smog test.
Putting a carb on this motor isn't all that hard, you need a carb and intake, distributor and ignition system. But that won't make much difference in power output because the EFI system isn't holding it back.. the cam is. But a carb under the hood of what is supposed to be an EFI vehicle is an automatic fail I would suspect.. doesn't matter how it runs.
Yep, cam trash. I think last Ford docs I had seen showed it around 177/183 dur, around 0.380/0.410 lift, and about a 109LSA. Something just pathetic. 89 should have a roller ready block, find a late truck roller cam or HO. I swear I saw the roller trucks were about 18-20 deg more intake duration alone, exhaust about +30. Lift a wash. I cannot say the power spec, but I believe it went from 185hp like my '88 302 to 205hp for the 302 with the spicier camshaft for 1994?
Conan has an old Crane grind camshaft card that could easily be duplicated and was made for these EFI trucks. That would be the best idea so you can actually have some valve lift, despite the E7s.
Carb swap is pointless and will be far more spendy than one imagines.
slight update i think when you step on it its not opening up the throttle body all the way something in there that is definitely wrong, it’s a manual 3rd gear is very torque heavy and it doesn’t pull as hard sometimes so i’m going to try and get in there and clean everything out
slight update i think when you step on it its not opening up the throttle body all the way
Easy enough to test that, pull the intake hoses off the TB and have someone sit in the truck and hit the pedal while you watch.
Originally Posted by Jloveless
something in there that is definitely wrong, it’s a manual 3rd gear is very torque heavy and it doesn’t pull as hard sometimes
Check fuel prrssure and the base timing, if either one of those is out of spec the motor will be down on power. But just so you know the stock cam in this thing peaks at 3500-4000rpm and it's not exactly powerful in perfect working condition.
I don’t think that number is right. Doesn’t the OEM cam have a 114 or 116LSA?
No not this early flat tappet cam, this just demonstrates that it's the total package( all cam specs combined) that define the results, a single cam spec on it's own doesn't really tell you much.
Here is a good chart, it's incomplete but I have seen much of this data verified elsewhere. There were several cams (or possibly the same cam used several times) in both carbed and EFI engines. WRT to the base 5.0 cam used in early trucks it is so small and mild that it doesn't upset map based EFI control which is mostly about having a strong and steady vacuum signal.
Here is a good chart, it's incomplete but I have seen much of this data verified elsewhere. There were several cams (or possibly the same cam used several times) in both carbed and EFI engines. WRT to the base 5.0 cam used in early trucks it is so small and mild that it doesn't upset map based EFI control which is mostly about having a strong and steady vacuum signal.
would you have any cam recommendations brand and spec? i’m not too familiar with actual engine work, i’m looking at replacing the tb and maybe intake i was looking at fabing up an aluminum box and intake (it’ll make a cool noise)
Both the F4TE truck cam and the 5.0 HO cam are significant upgrades from what you have that could be done quite inexpensively using donor parts, your block should be roller ready which means all these parts will drop right in. I wouldn't waste any time changing or modifying the intake or TB, there is nothing restrictive about them on this motor.
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