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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Head won't come off

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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 03:57 PM
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Head won't come off

Hey everyone i have a cylinder head on my 1986 ford f250 all the head bolts are out except 1 I stripped the head of the bolt so I tried bolt extracters and those would just strippe more so I cut the head of the bolt off thinking I could just pull the head off but the head just bearly moves I've tried prying on it pounding on it just about everything I've read on here .any info is greatly appreciated
 
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 04:38 PM
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I would think being the head of the bolt is off, like you it would just lift off

Not knowing what you have to work with but I would get left handed drill bits and see if you car drill it enough to use a easy out being it is not clamping anymore I would think it would come out.

The other thing is try welding a nut onto what is left of the bolt and see if you can spin it out.
If you have a picture of what you are dealing with someone may have something different to try.
Dave -----
 
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 04:45 PM
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If you in fact only have the bolt shank left, then it is a stud, The head should lift off.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 04:49 PM
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There is a reason he could not get the bolt out. That is probably the same reason the head will not come off. I think it will take two large pry bars and two people on opposite ends of the head to pry it straight up. And that's probably not going to be easy.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Hutchinsonj91
the head just bearly moves

How much does it move? Would you say the head is still being held by the gasket or has that bond already been broken?

What engine? On V engines, I’ve made guide studs by cutting the heads off long bolts. This keeps the heads from sliding off once they break free, and allows safer lifting. Sounds like you already have one in place…

If the head is still somewhat bonded to the block, consider this old trick. Loosely install at least two bolts at diagonal corners, leaving about an 1/8” slack under the heads. Bump the starter and let compression break the head free.
 
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