Gear shift tube replacement
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,347
Likes: 803
From: Mi'kma'ki
The last time I replaced one was last summer in the F450 and I didn't notice, when I tighten the steering column bolts back up, I did so, so there wasn't enough clearance for the brake switch and it stick on. I couldn't figure out why my torque converter wasn't locking sometimes (whenever the boo would stick) until I noticed the brake lights were still on after I parked the truck.
The shift tube is pretty easy to replace. I noticed the doorman part isn't made exactly like oem, so if you want to make sure the shift lever lines up, you can tweak the indent bracket a little by smacking it with a hammer. Sounds crude, but it works haha.
The shift tube is pretty easy to replace. I noticed the doorman part isn't made exactly like oem, so if you want to make sure the shift lever lines up, you can tweak the indent bracket a little by smacking it with a hammer. Sounds crude, but it works haha.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,359
Likes: 2,593
From: Near Salt Lake City
1st tip, remove the PRNDL indicator cable (or you'll break something expensive)
2nd tip, lower the column down onto the seat with the steering wheel still on there
Pretty easy to replace the part, yes watch a few videos
Those Torx bolts are T30's
2nd tip, lower the column down onto the seat with the steering wheel still on there
Pretty easy to replace the part, yes watch a few videos
Those Torx bolts are T30's
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 470
Likes: 90
I just did this because mine also broke as I was "troubleshooting" why it wouldn't go into Park.
+1 for what @manicmechanic007 said
The only thing in the way is the PRND21 indicator string. Unless, like mine, I had a wire for something running under the column and had to move that also. Factory wiring isn't a problem. Then the steering column can come down and rest on the seat (move it forward if you need to, obviously). The inner rod of mine was steel, and had bent a little from when the tube finally broke. I hammered it straight (it wasn't much) and reused it instead of the aluminum one that I had bought.
If your shifting is a little tight, get a replacement cable also. Mine was a little stiff, and it wouldn't return to Park. Replaced the cable and now it shifts better than new. Click-click-click. A baby could do it. Now, getting that d-m cable around the wiring harness behind the parking brake was not easy, but totally worth it in my case. You'll pull it out, and insert the new one, from underneath.
+1 for what @manicmechanic007 said
The only thing in the way is the PRND21 indicator string. Unless, like mine, I had a wire for something running under the column and had to move that also. Factory wiring isn't a problem. Then the steering column can come down and rest on the seat (move it forward if you need to, obviously). The inner rod of mine was steel, and had bent a little from when the tube finally broke. I hammered it straight (it wasn't much) and reused it instead of the aluminum one that I had bought.
If your shifting is a little tight, get a replacement cable also. Mine was a little stiff, and it wouldn't return to Park. Replaced the cable and now it shifts better than new. Click-click-click. A baby could do it. Now, getting that d-m cable around the wiring harness behind the parking brake was not easy, but totally worth it in my case. You'll pull it out, and insert the new one, from underneath.
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