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Hello all, I am in need of some guidance. My front axle is leaking fluid out where out where the differential housing mates to the axle arm. I believe it is just an RTV gasket, its puking a lot of fluid up and I am tired of staining the driveway, and am very worried about using 4x4. I recently repacked the wheel bearings but I want to pack the bearing that is inside the knuckle. I am also planning on throwing some greasable u-joints in there, I am surprised that my f-250 didn't have any greasable U-joints. Is this common?
I have the service manual and think I have a pretty good plan formulated but just wanted to run it by you guys.
Take off the wheels, take off the caliper, take off the hubs, take off the spindles, pull the axle shafts out of the differential, drop the housing, and then replace the gasket.
I haven't messed around with the actual axle at all, I am a bit nervous. Does this sound right?
I believe it is just an RTV gasket, its puking a lot of fluid up…. but I want to pack the bearing that is inside the knuckle. I am also planning on throwing some greasable u-joints in there, I am surprised that my f-250 didn't have any greasable U-joints. Is this common?
Take off the wheels, take off the caliper, take off the hubs, take off the spindles, pull the axle shafts out of the differential, drop the housing, and then replace the gasket.
RTV is correct. Why is it “puking a lot of fluid?” Before you do all that work, have you verified that the breather hose is not clogged? Bearing inside the knuckle? Are you referring to the bearing inside the spindle? You should have inspected and greased that when you did the wheel bearings. Yes, the u-joints were sealed units. Personally I replace them with the same thing instead of parts with grease fittings. There is the debate about greaseable joints being weaker because they are hollow but I look at the fact that the sealed joints lasted 20+ years.
I would also replace the axle seals while I have the center section out of the truck.
Your plan sounds good to me. If the ball joints are unknown age now would be a good time to replace them too.
I used to use greaseable u joints. I used to replace them every few years. I've broke them before. Last time I did the job I used Spicer sealed joints. I haven't broken one or had to replace one for being loose since. Spicer sealed is my recommendation.
RTV is correct. Why is it “puking a lot of fluid?” Before you do all that work, have you verified that the breather hose is not clogged? Bearing inside the knuckle? Are you referring to the bearing inside the spindle? You should have inspected and greased that when you did the wheel bearings. Yes, the u-joints were sealed units. Personally I replace them with the same thing instead of parts with grease fittings. There is the debate about greaseable joints being weaker because they are hollow but I look at the fact that the sealed joints lasted 20+ years.
I would also replace the axle seals while I have the center section out of the truck.
I will check the breather hose, its coming out of the bottom of the differential. Its inside the spindle, but I have to take the spindle off to get to it so I didn't do it when I did the wheel bearings. I did some more research on the greasable u-joints and found the same debate. I will probably leave them be or replace them with the spicer u-joints.
Your plan sounds good to me. If the ball joints are unknown age now would be a good time to replace them too.
I used to use greaseable u joints. I used to replace them every few years. I've broke them before. Last time I did the job I used Spicer sealed joints. I haven't broken one or had to replace one for being loose since. Spicer sealed is my recommendation.
The front ball joints are in really good condition actually, I don't think I will replace them this time around. I will go with the spicers as breaking the greaseable ones seems to be an issue.
X3 for non greaseable SLS. If you’re removing the diff off the beam, do yourself a favor and replace the inner u joint at a minimum, saves from messing it with again any time soon, it’s a pain to get at. Personally I’d do all of them, and bj too.
FYI. A breather should be higher than what it is venting, especially if you are going into water. It was originally clipped up onto the frame rail.
X3 for non greaseable SLS. If you’re removing the diff off the beam, do yourself a favor and replace the inner u joint at a minimum, saves from messing it with again any time soon, it’s a pain to get at. Personally I’d do all of them, and bj too.
FYI. A breather should be higher than what it is venting, especially if you are going into water. It was originally clipped up onto the frame rail.
I see, I will get some U-joints on order along with some ball joints.
Yeah its hung up on the frame right now, I will take it off and blow some brake clean or something through it.
I checked on the breather for the front differential expecting it to be full of garbage, but it was clean. I blew it out with some brake clean and hung it back up on the frame.
I have some spicer universal joints picked out, I also have some ball joints picked out.
I am also found the seals for the differential carrier.
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