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Bleeding brake system 2015 SD

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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 10:12 PM
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Bleeding brake system 2015 SD

Hey y’all,

Just replaced a front caliper and master cylinder on my 2015 F250 and I’ve been trying to get this brake system bled and I just can’t seem to get it right. Is there a technique or procedure to bleeding the abs module, I swear I’ve tried everything. does anybody have any suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 10:37 PM
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 11:45 PM
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No I did not…I figured since I was going to pressure bleed it it would be unnecessary. Am I wrong in assuming this?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 07:02 AM
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Are you sure it's the correct caliper for that side of the truck? Is the bleeder fitting at the top of the caliper?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 09:46 AM
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Yeah, it’s the correct side and the bleeder screw is at the top.

I will try bench bleeding the master cylinder today to see if that does the trick, I’ll keep you updated
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 10:40 AM
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I'd pull the MC and bench bleed it. Then put plugs in it and it should hold solid with pressure. This way you know that's not the problem.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 10:53 AM
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Ok, it happens more often than you'd think, so I had to ask.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 04:08 PM
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Update:

Bench bled the MC and re-pressure bled everything, but still for some reason the pedal will go slowly to the floor…the truck will stop but the brakes are still not like they were. Is it possible a bad abs module could cause this? Still air in the lines? Weirdly enough, I didn’t see a single air bubble when I pressure bled the system and I cycled an entire quart through each line at 40psi. thoughts?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 09:03 PM
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can you explain the pressure bleed...40psi? Are the newer trucks different...you are starting with the furthest wheel when bleeding correct?
My method is to put a hose from the bleeder screw into a bottle with some brake fluid...crack the screw, pump the brakes til air is gone, close screw ad move to the next wheel. I know the lines can be vac'd too but never heard of pressure bleeding
 
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 09:27 PM
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When I worked at a shop, we used a vacuum bleeder that you connect to your air compressor. Start at the right (passenger) rear tire suck brake fluid through until it is fresh clean fluid you're seeing, move on to left rear, then right front and finally left front. The system we used and the system I bought for myself since then has a reservoir that you insert in the master cylinder to keep the master topped up as you pull fluid through the system. Keep a very close eye on that to make sure you don't run the m/c dry and have to bench bleed it again.

Not sure what pressure bleeding is either unless your referring to the same type of vacuum system I am talking about and you adjusted your air compressor to 40 psi max.

That tool was the only way we could properly bleed brake systems with ABS.


 
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 09:32 PM
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A pressure bleeder applies pressure to the reservoir of the master cylinder. The method's been around for ages.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 10:22 PM
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I guess I'm old school and technically not a mechanic nor have many of the special tools. up until my last brake job, I still used the old 2 person method, lol but in my defense; I have not needed to bleed my brakes but a few times in my 30 some years nearly 40 yrs of my driving career

thanks for the knowledge
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 01:08 AM
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Yes I have been starting with the furthest caliper

I have a compressed air vacuum bleeder, tried that about 4-5 times, no luck

Yes the pressure bleeder just pressurizes a container with brake fluid and forces the fluid through the M/C, through the system and then you bleed at the calipers like normal.

Ford literature says to use a pressure bleeder set b/w 35-50 psi to bleed the abs system

I just re-bench bled the M/C again, re pressure bled again this time at 50 psi and cycled a half gallon of fluid through each line and STILL the pedal feels like crap. Brakes work, but not like how they used to.

I have never had this much trouble trying to get brakes to work, it’s crazy. Any more suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 05:06 AM
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Even though you didn't replace the HCU, have you bled it using diagnostic scan tool procedures (ABS Service Bleed instructions)?

I've had to do this before to tighten up a brake pedal.

If that doesn't do it, then either the MC has bad seals and is leaking into the booster or the caliper is bad.

Can you isolate the MC by putting back on the old caliper?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 09:25 AM
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Did you put plugs in the MC ports and see if it was solid after bleeding? If not it's time to do it and isolate where your problem is.
 
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