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I’ve done a ton of research online and I just want to make sure 100%, but a roller cam 302 engine does use a steel distributor gear correct? I bought a hydraulic roller 302 engine from a gentleman who freshened it up and he put in a nice billet distributor, but being paranoid I took it out and saw there’s a cast gear. I bought a new distributor with steel gear but want to make sure I can throw that in.
So that question has a debatable answer. I have always been told you have to use either a bronze or steel gear on a roller cam. but I recently had this conversation with Howard's cam tech dept and he assured me you can run any gear on a roller cam it's all internet nonsense.
I run bronze gears, and I still do, but I think it would be foolish to argue with the people who make the cams..
I just can’t figure out why he’d go thru the trouble of making it nice and then put in a cast gear, I looked all over and inside and it’s a 87 E7TE block, has the factory roller setup in it, I see he put in roller rockers and stuff, converted to front sump pan, gaskets, etc. I guess I’m just confused. I’d trying to get it buttoned up with the small stuff so I can get it in the 79.
If the gear on the cam is also billet i.e. one piece you don't want a cast iron gear. (it is seperate on some cams)
There are composit gear out now that replace bronze for rollers. It should also be good on a flat tappet.
I think it depends most on what the cam is made out of and if the gear is a different material than the cam billet.
It appears Howard's presses a cast gear onto their cams and can be used with cast dizzy gear. Or so the interwebs says.
Cams with gears made of billet steel it is often recommended to use bronze, composite or steel gear. Reasoning being the billet steel will eat up the cast iron gear. I would think that occurs with brass and composite too but perhaps those are less likely to also inflict damage on the cam gear which would ruin the cam.
Key thing being, use what the cam manufacture recommends. Me, I think I would err on the side of caution and just run a bronze gear. It may wear out sooner than other options, but replacing a distributor gear is much easier than replacing a cam.
The cam I bought was from Howards, it's a billet roller , same blank as everyone else. gear is part of the cam.
Running dissimilar metals on each other is common practice throughout the engine and in everything mechanical. not sure why a cam would be the only exception.
I wish there was an absolute final answer on this, the fact there isn't would indicate that it's a solution in search of a problem.
I think in a normal street vehicle, low rpm, relatively low stress, I don't think it matters at all. By the time the either gear wears out (assuming proper engine maintenance) the rest of the engine will be worn out too.
In extreme conditions such as racing the use of of bronze or composite gears probably has more to do with putting a "fuse" in the system since it is cheaper to replace a bronze gear than it is to replace a custom billet cam & custom curved dizzy if, for example, the oil pump seizes. The camshaft industry out of precaution recommends bronze or composite gears as an up-sell measure and CYA. If you didn't follow their recommendation it gives them grounds to refuse warranty coverage.
Decided to ask AI what it thought about it and kind of confirms my suspicions that it is used as a sacrificial part.
Question: "Why run a bronze distributor gear on billet steel cam from a metallurgical standpoint?"
AI Answer: "From a metallurgical standpoint, running a bronze distributor gear on a billet steel cam is recommended because bronze is softer than steel. This softer material helps prevent damage to the harder billet steel camshaft, as the bronze gear will wear out before the camshaft does, protecting it from excessive wear.
Bronze gears are often described as sacrificial because they are designed to wear out more quickly than the camshaft, thereby reducing the risk of damaging the camshaft.
This sacrificial nature of bronze gears ensures that the camshaft remains intact and functional, even under high-stress conditions.
Steel gears, especially those that are not properly hardened or melonized, can cause significant damage to billet steel camshafts due to the hardness mismatch, leading to potential engine failure.
Therefore, using a bronze gear on a billet steel cam is a precautionary measure to protect the camshaft and ensure the longevity of the engine.
In summary, the choice of a bronze gear for a billet steel camshaft is based on the metallurgical principle of material compatibility, where the softer bronze gear sacrifices itself to protect the harder steel camshaft."
I just wish there was a 100% answer, it’s the only thing left I gotta do to button it up, I get that a cast gear can sacrifice to safe the roller cam, but I see everywhere else roller cam steel gear. My head hurts thinking about it. Then again I hear 2 hard metals don’t go well together. Very confusing.
The two metal deal is nonsense really, dissimilar metals run on each other all the time. a flat tappet lifter is harder than the cast cam. a timing chain is harder than the cast gears. you could go on for hours.
My opinion, run a steel or bronze gear on a roller cam, and yes it's probably stupid. but for the price of a gear I don't want to worry about it.
Any roller cam engine from Ford already has the proper gear on distributor, it's the aftermarket that gets you into trouble. Many stock 5.0 engines last over 200,000 miles. Ford has or had several grinds of camshafts.
If it's a billet cam gear you have to run a special dizzy gear. If its cast then cast is OK. It depend on the gear itself. Not neccessarily the cam as they can be made seperately for some gears.