2011+ Brake Caliper Options
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 71
Likes: 26
2011+ Brake Caliper Options
I noticed my drivers front caliper has a cracked dust boot when I was pressing the piston in to change pads. I haven't noticed any sticking yet, but I assume as water and dirt gets inside it will seize up from corrosion.
I've read lots of other threads with issues with reman calipers and have been looking at options for new versus reman... would new raybestos calipers be better than reman raybestos/centric/ACDelco, etc since they are new pistons and bores and not rebuilt? They are a bit more costly, but I don't mind paying upfront to do it once, rather than change them out in a year or two, I hate anything related to disconnecting the brake lines and bleeding the brakes.
I like the added bonus of new calipers so I can have a spare set (no core to return) to try rebuilding myself if I change them before the piston corrodes.
I've read lots of other threads with issues with reman calipers and have been looking at options for new versus reman... would new raybestos calipers be better than reman raybestos/centric/ACDelco, etc since they are new pistons and bores and not rebuilt? They are a bit more costly, but I don't mind paying upfront to do it once, rather than change them out in a year or two, I hate anything related to disconnecting the brake lines and bleeding the brakes.
I like the added bonus of new calipers so I can have a spare set (no core to return) to try rebuilding myself if I change them before the piston corrodes.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 258
I’ve had way better luck rebuilding the calipers myself vers buy reman crap. I get the seal kits and new pistons (usually $50 does one axle) and spend a while cleaning the seal and dust boot bores before assembling. So far since 2017 I rebuilt the front calipers and bought rears as the axle I got was missing them, got 3 years out of the reman ones and they started sticking, rebuilt those in 2020 and haven’t had any caliper issues since.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,760
Likes: 9,113
From: Western NY
I had my brakes done at my buddy's shop... he lets me buy my own parts. I went with new Raybestos calipers from Rock Auto, no cores required.. One of the mechanics told me the last brake change that the rear calipers were looking a little corroded inside where the piston seals are. Since I was doing the rears, I said screw it and did the front calipers as well... now just have to be better with inspecting those slide pins more to keep them lubed and sliding freely.
2011 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY 6.7L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Caliper | RockAuto
2011 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY 6.7L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Caliper | RockAuto
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
I have a 2013 F-350 6.7 crew cab. I pull a 35' toy hauler.
I replaced front and rear brakes.
3/14/2021 59,600 miles
Bought from Summit Racing
Everything and I am 100% happy with them.
Powerstop #PWR-K6405-36 Brake Kit (Pads and Rotors)
Raybestos - Calipers
I replaced front and rear brakes.
3/14/2021 59,600 miles
Bought from Summit Racing
Everything and I am 100% happy with them.
Powerstop #PWR-K6405-36 Brake Kit (Pads and Rotors)
Raybestos - Calipers
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,760
Likes: 9,113
From: Western NY
Back in the day, I ordered plenty for my 96 F250 through Summit Racing... loved ordering through them as well. Plus they were close to me in Buffalo.
To be honest, have never price checked with Summit against Rock Auto. I'll have to do that next time when I order more parts...
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,760
Likes: 9,113
From: Western NY
I never stated, but I believe the calipers I ordered were the new Raybestos coated calipers.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
I too fight the WNY craptastic winters. The slider pins need to be inspected 2X/year. Or at tire rotation or winter/summer tire swap.
I'm ready for new caliper cages (brackets). Sick of re-greasing these schiztty pins. Thought about drilling/tapping zerks into them. Just an all around crappy design.
Prob should bite the bullet and do high quality calipers/brackets.
When I do it will use Power stops all the way and coated everything. I use the Geo plated rotors on my daily Heep (Jeep). They last the longest in the new tax york salt.
Keeping the brake fluid flushed every 2-3 years has allowed the OEM calipers last 90K miles and still goin. To date just one set of rotors & pads from the Ford parts counter.
Important to replace those soft hoses. They are a wear/safety item. Replaced all 4 last year.
I'm ready for new caliper cages (brackets). Sick of re-greasing these schiztty pins. Thought about drilling/tapping zerks into them. Just an all around crappy design.
Prob should bite the bullet and do high quality calipers/brackets.
When I do it will use Power stops all the way and coated everything. I use the Geo plated rotors on my daily Heep (Jeep). They last the longest in the new tax york salt.
Keeping the brake fluid flushed every 2-3 years has allowed the OEM calipers last 90K miles and still goin. To date just one set of rotors & pads from the Ford parts counter.
Important to replace those soft hoses. They are a wear/safety item. Replaced all 4 last year.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,061
From: Montana
I've used Raybestos parts for several decades. Don't recall any major issues. When I managed a parts store, that was the brand I recommended most for brake parts due to minimal warranty returns we had with them.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,049
Likes: 1,546
From: Media PA
I too fight the WNY craptastic winters. The slider pins need to be inspected 2X/year. Or at tire rotation or winter/summer tire swap.
I'm ready for new caliper cages (brackets). Sick of re-greasing these schiztty pins. Thought about drilling/tapping zerks into them. Just an all around crappy design.
Prob should bite the bullet and do high quality calipers/brackets.
When I do it will use Power stops all the way and coated everything. I use the Geo plated rotors on my daily Heep (Jeep). They last the longest in the new tax york salt.
Keeping the brake fluid flushed every 2-3 years has allowed the OEM calipers last 90K miles and still goin. To date just one set of rotors & pads from the Ford parts counter.
Important to replace those soft hoses. They are a wear/safety item. Replaced all 4 last year.
I'm ready for new caliper cages (brackets). Sick of re-greasing these schiztty pins. Thought about drilling/tapping zerks into them. Just an all around crappy design.
Prob should bite the bullet and do high quality calipers/brackets.
When I do it will use Power stops all the way and coated everything. I use the Geo plated rotors on my daily Heep (Jeep). They last the longest in the new tax york salt.
Keeping the brake fluid flushed every 2-3 years has allowed the OEM calipers last 90K miles and still goin. To date just one set of rotors & pads from the Ford parts counter.
Important to replace those soft hoses. They are a wear/safety item. Replaced all 4 last year.
There are 5 soft hoses, you missed one.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,760
Likes: 9,113
From: Western NY
I too fight the WNY craptastic winters. The slider pins need to be inspected 2X/year. Or at tire rotation or winter/summer tire swap.
I'm ready for new caliper cages (brackets). Sick of re-greasing these schiztty pins. Thought about drilling/tapping zerks into them. Just an all around crappy design.
Prob should bite the bullet and do high quality calipers/brackets.
When I do it will use Power stops all the way and coated everything. I use the Geo plated rotors on my daily Heep (Jeep). They last the longest in the new tax york salt.
Keeping the brake fluid flushed every 2-3 years has allowed the OEM calipers last 90K miles and still goin. To date just one set of rotors & pads from the Ford parts counter.
Important to replace those soft hoses. They are a wear/safety item. Replaced all 4 last year.
I'm ready for new caliper cages (brackets). Sick of re-greasing these schiztty pins. Thought about drilling/tapping zerks into them. Just an all around crappy design.
Prob should bite the bullet and do high quality calipers/brackets.
When I do it will use Power stops all the way and coated everything. I use the Geo plated rotors on my daily Heep (Jeep). They last the longest in the new tax york salt.
Keeping the brake fluid flushed every 2-3 years has allowed the OEM calipers last 90K miles and still goin. To date just one set of rotors & pads from the Ford parts counter.
Important to replace those soft hoses. They are a wear/safety item. Replaced all 4 last year.
I have my buddy's shop do the brakes... my knees are shot...
I took apart the new calipers I bought, took out the pins and a few already had little rust on them... made in Chicom. Cleaned them up and put my own stuff on them before my buddy's shop installed the new brakes.
I use Planet Safe Lubricants AiM lube. Rubbed a light layer on the pins. Then coated the pins with their grease they have. I also used the AiM lube on my factory locking hub dials to keep them free and turning. The older hub got tougher to turn in winter but it still moved. Will pull them this upcoming time off, have them sit in the sun and let the lube drip down through the body and dial interface (where they meet).
Going to check the pins at one point this year but yes, I was lax in doing this. This is a requirement here in a rust belt area.
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