When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Changed out factory oil at 900 miles. Went 7K on the Rotella T6. Which seemed to do fine, other than the high wear metals! Something to be worried about??? Or test again at next change? Thank you.
I would not be the least bit worried on an engine that's under warranty for 5 years.
Originally Posted by roadpilot
No. See how things look after the next one or two.
Originally Posted by Zixxer
Sell it, it's done :-)
Test it when it gets closer to 30k and if you have any concerns consider an extended warranty. I doubt you'll need it and your numbers are fine.
I’m currently 4k miles on valvoline premium blue. I was hoping to go the 7K like the Rotella and then do a comparison. But, I’m thinking I should drop the valvoline at 5k and see what the wear numbers say.
Elevated levels of metals specific to bearings are a cause for concern. Id run the next oil change out to the same interval and if those metal levels are still elevated be done with that engine. My response is based on your truck being for work and not something replaced by a rental car. If your truck is just a commuter vehicle then run out the warranty and if it fails deal with the inconvenience of having to use a second vehicle or rent a car for a little while.
I had two 2016 trucks with build dates of the same week. Something was wrong with assembly or parts quality right from the factory and both had premature bearing failure right out of warranty. If I did UOA I could have caught it but we all make mistakes.
Nothing to worry about, especially on a brand new motor. Friction parts are seating themselves into place as they should be and contaminates are being washed down into the oil. The thing to monitor now is the trend of all of the metals. Over your next 2 oil changes at 5-7k miles you should see those numbers that were high start to drop to a normal level. Some things may fluctuate +/- but that can easily be contributed to anything that settles into the pan and doesn't drain out cause of stupid drain pan designs that don't allow the drain plug to be the lowest point. Just remember that the numbers they send are in Parts Per Million so something going up or down a couple points doesn't indicate an issue. I've done hundreds of Oil Tests with Blackstone, Something as simple as resealing a valve cover, or using silicone to reseal an oil pan can cause certain numbers to go through the roof. Knowing what to look for and how to equate that to it being an issue is almost an artform. I once had a report come back for a fresh built engine "not a ford engine" that looked good, high silicon, aluminum, chromium, etc as we expected, except the iron count was off what we normally see. Ended up being that a thrust bearing slipped out as the girdle wasn't set just right to the crank. So the crank was just barely touching the girdle under load.
Could all be fine but there is a reason the lab made a point bringing attention to the elevated levels of those certain metals and point out it is not the norm that they see. Let us know when you get around to the next change.
Could all be fine but there is a reason the lab made a point bringing attention to the elevated levels of those certain metals and point out it is not the norm that they see. Let us know when you get around to the next change.
let’s say they are high again. are there any routes for me to go with Ford, or should I ditch the truck???
let’s say they are high again. are there any routes for me to go with Ford, or should I ditch the truck???
Ford is not going to do jack squat if the motor is running with no codes and no catastrophic levels of oil consumption or emissions testing issues. Keep an eye on it, run the heck out of it and if after the powertrain 5/60k is up it's not broken, yet you are still not confident, sell or trade it in then.
let’s say they are high again. are there any routes for me to go with Ford, or should I ditch the truck???
I agree with "twobelugas" comment. I have not been in your situation with an under warranty engine to be able to give any legal advice. If this truck is not a work rig that will cost you per day if its out of service then id run out the warranty period and trade it off.
Send out a second sample at the same oil change interval as your first, if those metals are still elevated, go for a third uoa and confirm for sure that you do have a problem and then go the ostrich rout and bury your head in the sand avoiding it until failure if that happens under your ownership or trade it in.
Ive since started uoa testing my light duty trucks after having both my 6.7L F250s go down at the same mileage. It took almost 120k miles for them to finally fail from what was obviously a factory issue upon their initial assembly when I opened them up after I pulled them from the trucks. Bearings had been eating themselves up slowly from improper seating and gouged out the block and crank enough I couldn't even rebuild the engines. Everything was fine until it wasnt and then upon inspection it was clear it was never fine and a uoa would have told me that many tens of thousands of miles earlier.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.