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Straight up saying that I would prefer not to go this route but i need 3” more to get cab forward and look right on a C30 frame.
For those that have done this what pointers do you, things that could make this easier or cleaner for a guy that is a sub par welder.Things to watch out for.
Not knowing what motor you have, makes the solution a little more interesting. From the pictures you already shown, the first place I would look at would be to move the engine forward as much as possible. Having that motor protrude into the cab 3 inches more will create quite a few more issues behind your dash (brake pedals, steering, windshield wipers, heater, defroster ducts and unit) Others will reply. If engine cannot move than a modified firewall to fit your specs will need to be fabricated. Welding can be at a minimum with the use of the larger rivets, they sacrifice some of the esthetics.
I think you might be better off altering your wheel well openings , cut around the openings then bolt up the fenders to the cab then recenter the openings to match the wheels. I've seen it done on other trucks, looks a little different but not bad..
I think you might be better off altering your wheel well openings , cut around the openings then bolt up the fenders to the cab then recenter the openings to match the wheels. I've seen it done on other trucks, looks a little different but not bad..
I'm not sure how things work out for your year, but on my '50 I was able to move the engine (4.8 LS) forward a bunch. I had to fiddle with the rad cradle, and it creates a bit of a domino effect on stuff like air dams, but I prefer to modify stuff that's hidden.
This c-30 frame, is it off 1985 1-ton Chevrolet dually, if that is right you are entering into a challenge. I would yank the BBC and trans out than reset the front clip and then mate the cab. At this point you will be able to mock the motor and trans and see what challenges show up. At this time, you will also be able to mockup the rear bed and see what issues you will have with the rear axle. I would do it this way even if it was not a dually. I have never seen anyone doing this swap. I wish you success and I will be following. A welding class might be a good move.
Last edited by gerrymoe; Apr 5, 2025 at 05:49 PM.
Reason: spelling
79’ c30 cab & chassis w/flatbed. Cab & Chassis has a narrower rear axle then the dually pick-ups. I do have another thread my F350 road worthy journey that started trying revive the OEM stuff and now has taken a turn down the frame swap road… I am considering picking up a gas mig welder. My Lincoln stick and an older HF flux core wire feed are probably not helping my cause any.
Ok I just read your F350 thread, I feel a little more informed now. I will stay with my last post. I think engine trans out mockup all body parts on the c-30 frame then decide what changes should be done. a lot of questions will be resolved when you can actually see it in real form..
A little bit of delay but wanted to at least update/bring some closure. Transdapt brackets almost worked but require some casting grinding on the block. Of course since you got things all a part and better visibility, a litttle grind and redrill on the frame and the factory mounts move forward so returned the kit to summit. Sourced a700r4 from the u pull yard to aid in the mock up as mentioned above was able to move forward 3” with the engine clearing everything frame wise. Cab & fenders look good for centering on the wheel. Transmission will tuck under the floor pan. Thanks for tips on this. Onto the next obstacle…
