Radius arm bushing
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
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Radius arm bushing
I have a 1988 F-150. I have a bad drivers side radius arm bushing. I need to replace it, and I saw you either have to take the radius arm bracket off or the inner bolt for the control arm. Is that the right way? Remove the bolt in the middle then pull the control arm forward? Is just as simple lowering and pulling the control arm forward or is there more to it?
Also it’s been making noise for a long time just didn’t have the money to take care of it, is the bracket gonna need to be replaced now? How would I tell if it’s good or bad?
Also it’s been making noise for a long time just didn’t have the money to take care of it, is the bracket gonna need to be replaced now? How would I tell if it’s good or bad?
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,768
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What inner bolt are you talking about? There are no control arms on a TIB / TTB suspension. The way I was taught when I worked at the Ford dealership was to loosen the front bolt and stud at the beam. Then you can pull the assembly forward and swing the end of the radius arm out of the bracket. You won’t know if the bracket is egged out until you get the arm out the bracket. If you think the bracket is damaged then you might be better off to remove the bracket to replace the bushings.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
What inner bolt are you talking about? There are no control arms on a TIB / TTB suspension. The way I was taught when I worked at the Ford dealership was to loosen the front bolt and stud at the beam. Then you can pull the assembly forward and swing the end of the radius arm out of the bracket. You won’t know if the bracket is egged out until you get the arm out the bracket. If you think the bracket is damaged then you might be better off to remove the bracket to replace the bushings.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
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This is an old photo I had so not the best. But this is where he loosened it. Sorry it’s been awhile since I’ve looked under my truck so I forget how the suspension is.
Am I supposed to just unbolt it on the outside and it’ll slide out? I won’t have any issue getting the old bushing out I can move a part of it around by hand.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 468
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Drilling out the rivets isn't all that difficult. The gold Dewalt bits from the Depot work well. Use a grinder to flatten the ones you can get to to make them easier to drill. Punch the center. Start with a 1/4" bit. You only need to drill about halfway (to the depth where the frame is). Then come back with a 1/2" bit and do the same. Use a cold chisel to get the head off. A heavy hammer and a punch will pop the rivet out. Then drill the holes to 1/2" diameter. Reassemble with some grade 8 1/2" bolts and lock washers and loctite.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,268
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From: Near Salt Lake City
I've done it both ways many times
Easiest to buck the rivets and replace them that way (do both sides and replace the metal heat shield on the right side and the plastic collars on both sides)
When I get tired of dealing with the rivets I pull the coil spring and radius rod out, and replace them that way
It's a bit quicker for labor rime to buck the rivets
Easiest to buck the rivets and replace them that way (do both sides and replace the metal heat shield on the right side and the plastic collars on both sides)
When I get tired of dealing with the rivets I pull the coil spring and radius rod out, and replace them that way
It's a bit quicker for labor rime to buck the rivets
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