You might be getting code 23 if you don't hold the throttle wide open while performing the KOEO test. And code 11 means self test passed so it's not like you're getting trouble codes. Your posted TPS range shouldn't trigger a code based on my experience. In general I found that a higher TPS idle voltage resulted in the trans holding a gear longer before upshifting, which was what I was trying to accomplish when I dug into the TPS. On a 1992 your ABS/VSS sensor is mounted on top of the rear diff--I think it's only a two wire plug. The sensor may be bad or dirty.

 

@WCMtn1990 is right on. You're first settings were not correct, but your second TPS postings are closer. Still a bit low. You really should set it according to the link posted of 1.2V idle (probably at least 1.18 or 1.19) but I suppose, 1.17 isn't bad enough to hurt anything. If you tap it a bit with a heavy object, it might bump up enough without having to loosen the bolts. Just try and tweak it closer to 1.2 (at let the WOT voltage land where it may. Be sure the fast idle solenoid is off first though - unplug it or let engine warm up.)

Anyway, like WCM says, your problem at hand is no tach signal. Make sure you don't have any blown fuses in the under hood fuse box. Two of them can blow and cause no tach.

WCM also has ya right on, that 11 is what you want and 23 is probably now just because you didn't hold WOT during the whole scan.

No more code 63 and 67 is GREAT news! (those were your main issues) It may be hard to believe right now, without a working tach, but you did just fix two major problems. Just check the fuses and or test the tach and you'll be ok now more than likely. It can't shift worth a lick without that working, so no surprise there.

Let me see here, fuse U and I seem to recall if K blows you lose your tach too, but just check them all. If you blew fuse K the engine wont start due to that being the FSS line, so you'd know. I dunno, I know there are two and I know U is one of them. Just check them all. Does the engine start? You were right in the area and so you could have shorted something out there without realizing it.

I dunno how this relates to the vans. Use it as guide to figure it out, if not the same or google search to find E-series if it looks all different..........or just check all the fuses under the hood you can find and just replace any blown ones haha........






Oh the other one is probably fuse I actually......and don't forget, the tach wires often chafe right there on the vac pump. If you were right there working, maybe you leaned on them and shorted them out. Check the wires going to the tach before replacing a blown fuse. I'd bet something like this happened, because what are the odds the tach died all the sudden, right? Could be as simple as putting some tape around the wires and replacing a fuse. If I remember right, on the F450 where I left the vac pump, I think I put some wire loom around my tach wires right there, to help prevent the common issue.........If I didn't I should have....and anyone else reading should do the same.

Ah, yes. Found a pic. I did in deed do this years ago. I can see the wire loom. I probably have zip tied so it can't vibrate either.
Preventative side note; there's also another common wire chafe area in the 9th gens for the trans; the shift handle wires going to the OD cancel switch. I have both trucks wire loomed in there to prevent this also. You have to remove the key lock and shroud around the steering wheel to get in there to do it, but it's worth it.

 

Thanks! I pulled and cleaned the vss sensor. There were a few small chips that I cleaned off, but nothing of any size and there are no speedo issues. I'll test it tomorrow, it's getting late.

That's good news about the codes. I ran the test again with the throttle depressed and did not get a code 23, so all is good there. Both the TPS and neutral safety switch were original so needed done anyway. So this is something that won't send a code.
I'm going to check the resistance of the solenoids through the plug tomorrow. I need to leave by 2 tomorrow, so I'll have to see what I can get diagnosed.

About the tach signal. There is not a dash tachometer in the E-series. It was my understanding that the sender on top of the timing cover was optional. When I decided wanted a tach, I found that the sensor was already installed. It has 2 black wires, one grounded on the intake manifold and the other was just cut about 12 inches from the sensor. Considering that there were also sensors for other gauges with cut wires, and evidence of extra gauges mounted to the dash, I assumed that it had an accessory tach at one time given it's use driving a PTO. If the transmission has been fine until now, why would this happen suddenly while driving ? Is there another tach sensor for the E4od ?

I'll go through the fuses again tomorrow.

John

 

About the TPS adjustment, it was a nightmare to replace, even after I removed the fuel filter and moved the line. It was still the original so all the torx screws were sealed with paint that had to be scraped out. The rear bracket T27 is stuck and likely stripped. I ended up replacing the T15s with 3mm stainless Allen bolts. Due to the rear screw being stuck, the bracket is difficult to move and again, acces is really limited. When I do finally get it where I want it, it slips back due to the spring load as I tighten the front T27 . I'll play with it more in the future, but I don't think that's my issue. I plan to check the steering column for chafing as well, but the button seems to be working fine. I tried to check the engine compartment fuses, but couldn't get the cover off due to clearance issues.

 

That is very, very, very odd, that you're saying the tach sensor was never hooked up. Not having a tach in the cab is no big deal, but an E4OD can't operate without one and no, there is just the one.....Unless there's something about the vans I don't know? You have no reason to suspect the solenoid's nor connector are causing you any issues, nor the speed sensor, nor the OD cancel wires. Not that it's a bad idea to clean and test, but the trans unit needs a tach sensor. I can't explain how it ever shifted correctly without one. That's not supposed to be possible. You need to focus on getting the trans control unit, the tach signal it's needs.

 

Just one tach sensor. Of course I have no idea what a PO might have done to your van but on both my trucks it's just a two wire sensor with plug that connects to the OEM harness. Test the resistance between the two wires connected to the tach sensor. A new sensor is around 2400 ohms IIRC. I have no idea how or why the trans would have driven fine without a tach signal but it goes against everything I have read--maybe a former trans tech will chime in.
And FWIW I wouldn't replace the small T-15s with Allen heads only because I have had way more stripped out allen head fasteners than torx bolts. Yes the T-27s can be a nightmare and I had to use a chisel to remove one of mine, but even after mangling it the Torx portion was technically still usable but I replaced them both with Grade 8 hex bolts and lock washers. You can make small adjustments to the TPS by loosening the two smaller bolts and moving the TPS around. The TPS is so sensitive to movement that the large bracket is used to get it close and then the small bolts can fine tune the setting. If you pay attention you'll notice the holes for the small Torx bolts are a hair over-sized and that is what allows for fine tuning like moving it from 1.16 to 1.2.

 

I just replaced my TPS bolts with Allen heads last year, with no regrets. I can't imagine ever stripping them. I think he's close enough on the TPS anyway. The cut tach sensor wires is a real head scratcher. He can't be looking at the correct two wires, if his trans was shifting correctly recently, or someone just played a real cruel trick on him while he was working on it haha.

 

I appreciate the response! The transmission has worked perfectly for the last 10k miles so yeah, I'm confused too! After coffee, I'll pull the doghouse again and try to figure out what happened to the lead. I'd like to track the lead back from the pcm but I understand that it's under the driver's side inner fender liner and I don't have time to pull that apart today.
Is there a test strategy for checking these things once one has cleared up the code related issues? (Besides fixing the tach lead). Again, everything was fine, then I turned a corner and was accelerating and suddenly this started...

John

 

I have absolutely no idea how your trans was working without a tach sensor. No clue. Not even a wild guess. Best as I know, that's simply not possible. If the trans control unit doesn't know the engine rpm, it doesn't know a vital part of the equation on when to call for a shift....or downshift......or converter lock. It might try but you could have late high shifts or early boggy shifts and a converter un/lock when not desired and probably all the above at random times.

So, as you can see here, dark green goes down to pin #44 for RPM negative input to TECA
Then tan with yellow stripe, goes down to pin #4 for RPM positive input to TECA

Tach sensor upper left by the large A









Hey, the aftermarket is finally making IDI tach sensors? Only took about 30 years haha

 

A little more background on Binky.
It came from a Government auction at the Idaho National Laboratory, the US nuclear research facility.
It is one of the first thousand of the 92 new body style vans and was built as an RV unfinished chassis, then sent to Anderson All Wheel Drive for conversion. The drivetrain is a 91 F350 pto transfer case w/Dana 60's front and rear. Front is a kingpin axle.
It had a crane inside, powered by the pto, that folded out and ran sensors up and down boreholes looking for radioactivity. The crane mounted through the body to big frame brackets. All that was removed and a cover plate added where the pto was.
Then it got used as a cyber security test vehicle, spoofing cell towers. I still have not removed all the antennae.
It didn't want to start the day I bought it because the glow plug relay wires were cut too. A brief shot of either got it started and I drove it three hours home. Restarts easily once warm. The more it's been driven the better it runs...until now.

 

If the coast clutch solenoid failed in the on position when it shifts to OD the rear wheels will stop turning. The coast clutch CANNOT be on in fourth gear.

Here is how to see if the coast clutch solenoid is doing what it is supposed to do. First, get into overdrive. Lift off the gas. As the vehicle slows, when it shifts to 3rd gear does the engine speed stay up, providing engine braking, or does it drop to idle speed? It should drop to idle speed.

Now go back to a speed fast enough that it's in overdrive. Lift off the gas and press the OD OFF button. Does the engine speed stay up, providing engine braking, or does it drop to idle speed? In this case, engine speed should stay up.

 

Sorry, I thought I posted a response the other day...

Ok, so it's not the coast clutch solenoid.
When I parked it I checked the codes again. Only got "11" so that is good. Last I drove it (TPS set at 1.19), it shifted very high, I had to lift my foot off the fuel to get it to shift.
Also, when this first happened, I turned off the OD button and it behaved normally, at least to me, pretty sure there was braking.

What other tests can I run? I'm planning to head back next weekend, I'd like to have a plan/parts together by then.

Also, is this the Tach connector? The leads for the original were cut off and used for an accessory tach, you can see them in wire wrap heading towards the rear. If this is the body-side connector, I'll buy a new one and install it...but I'm skeptical.

 

Yeah, but without a tach signal, it's a wonder it shifted at all. I wouldn't fault the TPS setting without a tach sensor hooked up to the TECA. I'd be skeptical it ever shifted in the first place, but I don't see why you'd want to be dishonest about that, so I have to believe ya haha. I just don't understand it. Maybe whoever cut the tach sensor wires, is the one who also maladjusted the old TPS/set it too low, to force the trans to shift early because without the tach, they had to lift their foot off the accelerator to force it to shift too? It's news to me it could be set low to force it to shift without a tach signal, but if that's what they did, it was never good because like the TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A says: "Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal."

That looks like the TECA side of the tach plug, but of course if you could source a plug to wire back up to your tach sensor from a salvage yard or replace the sensor with a new one, you could see if it just plugs in. I mean, skeptic or not, you're trans needs the tach signal. You're going to need the plug/new sensor w/ one. It might have shifted somehow before, but it couldn't have ever shifted correctly.

 

I'm too ignorant to be dishonest! My only experience with E4ODs was in a 1999 and then a 2002 F-350 V10 1-ton dually w/utility bed. I drove those things into crazy places, usually while towing something heavy. It was a beast. I did overheat a torque converter over a pass in Idaho, but it was covered under warranty. This one in the van didn't behave any differently, but there was over 10 years between me driving the them.

OK, new tach sensor ordered...

I was just about to suggest something similar! It seemed to me the old TPS was set very low and that the system was fudged somehow, like over-riding a limp-home or something.
I'll fix the tach first thing when I get back there again and start over with the TPS adjustments.
Plus, the fluid was really grungy for only 60K miles! Could this have caused pre-mature plate wear?
Is there a back-up idea if the new lead doesn't do it?

John

 

Well, I made it back last weekend, installed a new tach sensor. It's still shifting really high, but it didn't seem to have the OD issue. I didn't have time to any more diagnosis, I was convinced that the new sensor would do the trick.
I'm going back in 2 weeks for a longer stay when I can spend some more quality time with the TPS. Is there any thing else I can do /check/replace while I am there?