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im surprised not more people get a tuner as their first upgraded part for efi engines. That’s what I did, and learned how to tune the stock engine, then added more performance hard parts.
Didn’t even have to question SD vs MAF compatibility parts, it’s all tuneable.
None of the dash gauges besides the speedo will work once the EFI harness is removed.
well I already don’t use temp, oil pressure and voltage, so I’d just have to figure out the fuel, Speedo and tach. But I’m assuming that would be a little bit better than repinning and tuning for the MAF
im surprised not more people get a tuner as their first upgraded part for efi engines. That’s what I did, and learned how to tune the stock engine, then added more performance hard parts.
Didn’t even have to question SD vs MAF compatibility parts, it’s all tuneable.
I was more looking for ease of swap compared to performance. I know that efi would be way better for performance, but If a carb is cheaper and easier, mainly easier, that’s what I’d like to do
What some people don't realize, when it comes to OEM ECU operation, is that the ECU will make fuel corrections in closed loop: as much as 33% in either direction, using the original sized injectors.
I would suggest installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, one with a sender on the rail and wired to a gauge in the cab. And also buy a wideband O2 to monitor air/fuel ratios (requires welding in another O2 sensor bung near the collector). That way you can see how the motor is being fueled under heavy throttle conditions (open loop), in real time. And then adjust the regulator to help with fueling for those conditions until you see the numbers that you like.
If you can't dial in the fueling with an adjustable FPR, with the parts you've added. THEN go with aftermarket tuning.
And that's on top of sourcing a computer and getting the thing converted to MAF, I'm not really confident on my abilities to change the computer if its not plug and play. But then again, I know a lot of wiring is needed on a carb swap too. Seems like either way, I'll be in for some wiring.
Not that I would recommend this, but I ran some 36lb injectors and ran the fuel pressure low enough to run. Ran it that way for a decade or more. Not enough time or money to do it right at that time. Family seemed to take away all the extra time/money.
Alright so after some thought, I was wondering if it is even worth getting away from the speed density. If I put the x heads on, could I get a SD friendly cam that will take advantage of the better heads? And will the intake limit me much? I wouldn't be afraid to try at least port matching the intake or I might be able to take it to someone. Still not sure about the tune though or the stock injectors. I'm using the injectors that came stock in the HO motor with MAF. But if I have the whole thing apart is it worth going carb or MAF, or do I just leave it SD. I'd like some more power out of the truck but I don't want to waste the potential of the heads I have.
I left mine as SD, with computer friendly cam.
I have Compcam XE258HR-12 with stock home ported E7, and edelbrock 3881 intake.
I do not know how or if this cam is recommended for a 5.0, I have a 5.8.
I ended up using this cam after calling Compcam and they recommended it for me.
Does have idle issues once in a while.
Raising the idle to 900rpm was a temp fix, but had to hold brake pedal harder.
I also put on a Quarter Horse, lowered idle to 750, and also able to tune it.
Mine is a 5.8L, CA model w/MAF. Again, don't follow my lead. I can only say it was supposed to be temporary [to get me home from work] but I had it that way for probably a decade or more. It was supercharged too.
I have a cam I pulled from the motor with the x heads, it has 1E7 and a D stamped into the end of it, and a Z stamped on the shaft. I was told it was stock but I cant find anything on it, I might be missing something. but with a f4te cam and the x heads, is it going to be a noticeable difference behind the wheel?
I am wondering now how restrictive the stock intake is. I already have a set of heads for it, but I cant afford the $1000 for that intake at the moment. Did you have to tune it or mess with the computer at all?
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