Actually, you're not that far off.

And go where? This thread started with someone asking which oil to buy. We are giving him facts so that he can decide for himself.

More information is a good thing.

 

I know alot of "brand name" things are made by other companies. That's the whole purpose of "brands"!! That way, you have a name association with a specific product (or products) that you can hopefully trust regardless of who makes it!! You end up shopping for a "brand name" product for your specific needs.

I might be throwing a little money away by sticking with Motorcraft, but in the end, that's what BRAND I'm comfortable with. You may find yourself spending a little less by buying their maker, that's what makes you comfortable. But, are you sure that Purolator makes the filter, or did they get it from yet another source? It can go on & on. Besides, I've never seen any oil for sale in my area made by Conoco! If I have to drive too far to get it, then that substantially reduces my savings...

Heat, since you mentioned beer (I know you were joking), but that's a good analogy. Not all beers are created equal! I went to a Christmas party tonite and all they had was Sam Adams, Yuenling(sp?), Coors lite & Miller lite I mean, where's the Budweiser? No Bud Light? We had to leave........

 

Hey Diesel,

I see you're in VA. I'm headed out that way this week. Hope the weather holds out so I can get in and out without delays.

I think it's Harrisonburg? Tried to rent a PSD, all they had was a Dodge Duwrongo or a mini van. What a friggin choice!

It's already lookin like a bad trip!

How about renting me your PSD? hahahaha

 

Hey HEAT, if you gotta rent a Dodge Durango, make sure it's got the HEMI!! Sorry, Harrisonburg is kinda far!LOL Let me know if you come near DC!! Maybe we could check this "brand name" thing by doing some taste testin'!!

 

Thanks for the offer. I just buy "Beer", it's all the same isn't it?
(Sorry to hear about your Xmas party debacle)

I am definitely ging for the Hemi Duwrongo, but it probably has a horse or mule pulling it.

 

Just HAD to go there huh?

 

Ooops, Sorry Cookie,

Please accept my apologies, (for now) lololol

Just trying to get Jschiras attention.

 

Just cause two things are made at the same place by the same people doesn't mean they are made to the same standard. Look at ford, do you want a 1/2 ton or a 1 ton. Both are good products from the same company just one is cheaper but they must really be the same thing right? I mean they are both built buy ford. Each to their own, but we aren't talking alot of cash so I'm sticking with motorcraft. Just my 2 cents.

 

it's cool (for now).

Here's my $.02

I've run the gambit from full synthetic to el'cheapo. Not one of them has made any real, measureable difference in the way the truck start, runs, MPG, etc. etc.

I think the real key is the maintenance schedule. If you are religious about 3000 mile oil changes, any properly rated oil you put in it will be fine. Nothing is going to break down that soon.

Personally, I've settled on Delvac 1300 super, it's a dollar a gallon cheaper than Rotella at Wally world, and can be found anywhere I may travel.

*on edit- Wait a minute... I just supported jschira's position....check six, the world might be ending.

 

I dont stretch out oil changes either, just if there is a differance in the oil I think it's going to show once theres a ton of miles on the od not now. I'm hoping to keep this truck till its all used up. At the present 10,000ish km a year Im going to get old with it. If your not in for the long haul then oil is oil and if there is anything to all of this it'll be someone elses problem. Right or wrong isn't really the issue I quess I'm paying for peace of mind.

 

I don't know about WW Super Tech motor oil . but I'll not use any of their products. I put their transmission oil in my 4 speed standard before a trip from AZ. to Pa. and on the return it made it to N.M. The tranny got so hot I couldn't touch the floor stick. I had it drained and replaced with Pennsoil and never had another problem . Maybe I get ripped off sometimes but I'll stick to brand names when it comes to equipment. Saving a few bucks isn't worth the gamble.

 

After having read the posts on this tread, I have come to conclude that you guys are cheating yourselves. There is a better oil out there and owners of vehicles like yours are the ones who will benefit most.

First off let me point out two things: 1) I am not a dealer for SynLube and make no money from them in any way, my comments/recommendations are based on my experience with their products and a desire to offer a constructive comment; 2) I don't own one of your trucks. I am waiting until I can purchase a properly optioned Ranger. Therefore if you insist I have to own a similar vehicle, you can stop here and go on to the next post. Those of you still interested may find your time well spent.

High quality oils do make a difference. If you want the best performance, reliability and fuel mileage from your vehicle, you have to leave dino oil behind. Just as with the bias ply tire, its day is past. Yes, it can still provide satisfactory service but only satisfactory service if changed frequently. For those of you who don't think oils make a difference, I can only say that I've spent three years recording information about fuel mileage and oil consumption into a spreadsheet. The difference is really there.

This should not be a surprise. Oil is a primarily a marketing commodity. Dino oil for our vehicles is basically derived from the residue of a barrel of crude that cannot be economically processed into a saleable commodity. It amounts to about 2 quarts per barrel and the oil is designated API Grade SA when it is basically given away to oil marketers like Quaker State etc. Motorcraft lubes come from contracts with companies like Conoco that agree to produce a lube to Ford's specs. Even when the oil is basically given to these companies, after transport, packaging, marketing and retail markup are applied, how much of an additive package can be purchased for the oil and still have it cost $1-1.50? Not very much yet the additive package is critical as we all know.

My experience with SynLube products covers three years now. I own a Ford Focus SVT (until that Ranger becomes available) and it is EPA-rated at 21/25. Over the 10K miles I've had it, the overall fuel mileage is 27 MPG (26 city/suburban, 31-33 highway) with 70% of that mileage in light city/suburban driving. Though I don't use the AC much, my driving is, according to a monitoring chip I use, somewhat aggressive. Oil consumption during this time has been 3 ounces or about 1 quart per 100K miles. I have used this oil since the car was new having converted at 668 miles.
I use their gear lube in my manual transmission. They also make a coolant. The oils have a service life of 3K hours/150K miles or 10 years for gasoline engines. Replacement intervals are somewhat shorter for diesels but I don't have those figures since their site is down as I write this. It is the most expensive oil you can buy but the cheapest oil per mile.

What makes SynLube worthy of consideration? It is a fundamentally different oil! There are several reasons why this is a valid claim. One is that while folks mostly talk about the nominal viscosity of the oil, it is the viscosity index that is far more important. Normal dino oils, even truck oils, have an index in the area of 85-110. SynLube's VI is 200 meaning that the oil is far more resistant to temperature so it flows far more freely under cold start conditions and provides a much more durable film during normal or extreme operating temperatures. A key spec for trucks is the SAE J300 HSHT spec. For cars, the spec is 2.9cP (centipoise), for HD oils such as Ford specifies for the Powerstroke, it's 3.7cP while SynLube has a 5cP rating.

Secondly, SynLube is a multi-dimensional oil in that it has both liquid (PAO, ester, polyol ester, etc) and solid lubricants (PTFE, moly and graphite in submicronic colloids), all of which are synthetic. These provide a far more reliable and higher strength film that is especially evident at startup since the oil almost entirely eliminates dry lube conditions. It's beyond the scope of this post to go into depth about the advantages of mixing solid with a liquid lube except to say this isn't something that just SynLube thinks is good, both Dupont and Shamrock Technologies sell PTFE optimized for use with synthetic lubes.

Thirdly, the ingredients in SynLube are inert subtances. They do not respond to engine blowby and do not form byproducts as a result of contact with engine blowby. Consequently, SynLube is able to provide full protection and performance for years, not months.

SynLube is not for engines that burn oil. It is only intended for engines in good mechanical condition. These who have used dino oil for a considerable period of time would do well to use something like Mobil 1 for a time to dislodge and remove built-up deposits.

 

Interesting that you chose the name "Houckster" - which I'll assume is a play on "huckster" - 'cause I feel like I was just sold a set of Ginsu knives, or a Roto-Slicer

 

My .02 - I use Rotella. I can get it in gallon jugs at my local NAPA store - which also carries the fuel and oil filters, all of the gear lubes in the right weights for the diffs, etc. (Never seen the right gear lubes at Autozone, CSK or Wally World.) Rotella meets or exceeds mfr's specs and isn't overpriced. Since I change every 3,000 miles it probably doesn't make a hill of beans difference what I put in it, but one stop shop to pick up parts works for me - besides, making fewer trips or miles to pick up provisions makes me 'green' don't it???

Now if I could just figger a way to get one of them environmental plates on my truck, with a snappy phrase like "STROKED" I'd be set with the Birkenstock crowd, crying foul as I mash the pedal and leave 'em in a black cloud. Gotta love Monday's man...

 

Yes, an old one but a goodie. I've heard it quite a few times.

I have no knowledge of Roto-slicer or ginsu knives so I can't vouch for them. I can for SynLube and as I said, I don't rep for them or having any relationship with them except as a satisfied customer.

Sometimes, you have to be willing to take a chance. Not everything that's new is a gyp. Most of the con artists like Slick 50, Z-Max and STP show up before the FTC (see their website) sooner or later. You won't find SynLube there. Three years of good results is enough to convince me I'm right. There is no better oil but if what you're using satisfies you then stay with it.