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Spark Check Result, Constant Current Flow

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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 06:25 PM
  #16  
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Hmm. I think you're gunna find the coil is just fine. How about the ground wire between the ICM and the PIP? and the ground wire between the PIP and the computer?
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
Hmm. I think you're gunna find the coil is just fine. How about the ground wire between the ICM and the PIP? and the ground wire between the PIP and the computer?
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As mentioned, all wiring in the unplugged harness is good for continuity and no shorts to ground except as noted, the 12v power.

The way your question is worded it seems you are referring to the distributor as the PIP. So, PIP connector at distributor to both PIP connector at ICM and pin 56 are good. Distributor Ignition ground to pin 16 of PCM good
 
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 07:50 PM
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I really like how all the connectors are so easy to access on these bricknoses. My '86 EFI is a pain with ECM connector under the dash and ICM a mile away buried on the distributor.

 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 07:52 AM
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Put a video clip on YouTube. Essentially an F150 Taser. Should be public at 8:15AM CST.

As I narrow the gap with a screwdriver, you see what is happening. It'll do this as long as the gap is close enough.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger
Put a video clip on YouTube. Essentially an F150 Taser. Should be public at 8:15AM CST. https://youtube.com/shorts/OCQhPCHQvEM?feature=share

As I narrow the gap with a screwdriver, you see what is happening. It'll do this as long as the gap is close enough.
as i wait patiently at 8:13
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger
Put a video clip on YouTube. Essentially an F150 Taser. Should be public at 8:15AM CST. https://youtube.com/shorts/OCQhPCHQvEM?feature=share

As I narrow the gap with a screwdriver, you see what is happening. It'll do this as long as the gap is close enough.
Thats actually normal. Short gaps spark colder but longer.
Long gaps spark hotter but shorter. That is way too short. testing it with the spark gap its normally doing would be better
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger
Put a video clip on YouTube. Essentially an F150 Taser. Should be public at 8:15AM CST. https://youtube.com/shorts/OCQhPCHQvEM?feature=share

As I narrow the gap with a screwdriver, you see what is happening. It'll do this as long as the gap is close enough.
It says the video is unavailable because it's private.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
It says the video is unavailable because it's private.
Not much of a YouTube content producer. Checking the box that indicates Public should have made it public in my view.

Has anyone seen it?

 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger
Not much of a YouTube content producer. Checking the box that indicates Public should have made it public in my view.

Has anyone seen it?
i.. literally replied about the content of it..

Ive now watched it twice, yes its public still..
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
i.. literally replied about the content of it..

Ive now watched it twice, yes its public still..
Thank you for verifying. Mysterious Internet.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 10:39 AM
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So, fires up and runs this morning. Problem with continuous current on secondary still present. Though it throws a nice, hot spark as it should, it still bleeds the background current continuously.

BTW: First time I fired it since I picked it up last summer.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 11:08 AM
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Went ahead and installed the new Motorcraft coil because I already had one. Same issue.

Is there an off the vehicle test for the CCD ignition module? My Haynes manual only shows a push start module. (which I know fairly well)


 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 03:15 PM
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The purpose of this thread was to clear up what I believe is a not normal coil wire current issue. Different opinions. Let me try to better describe the situation. And why I think it's not normal.

Try this at home. Disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap. Go turn the key to on (do not start) Now go lean against the truck and grab the disconnected coil wire. If you get shocked like an angry, sadistic cop weilding a Taser and he won't stop, then my truck's situation is normal. Please, if you are certain this is normal DO NOT try it!

But, if this is normal, then my other similar vehicle has a not normal issue because it does not shock. Yes, I tried on my '86 EFI truck.

In other news, after a memory clearing, I pulled only a KOEO code 212, SPOUT. Code 212 in this case is likely IDM not present.grounded. So, I broke out the break out box (pleasantly surprised yesterday to see a 60 pin PCM connector) and probed the SPOUT circuit with everything plugged in. Still no short to ground detected.

Is the Motorcraft DY1075 the correct ICM? It's remote mount.

 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 04:04 PM
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There should be no spark ever KOEO. Something is wrong.

DY1075 is the old style Push-Start ICM. Wrong one for a 1994 and up F-Series truck. Dozens of threads here stating the same issue, i.e. most part manuals are wrong, including Ford. You need a DY1077, yes the wrong ICM will trigger Code 212... missing IDM.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005

DY1075 is the old style Push-Start ICM. Wrong one for a 1994 and up F-Series truck. Dozens of threads here stating the same issue, i.e. most part manuals are wrong, including Ford. You need a DY1077, yes the wrong ICM will trigger Code 212... missing IDM.
Thanks for that. I only checked the 212 listed in the Innova code reader manual. Good to have hope that the problem may be a simple swap to the correct part.

 
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