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Does anyone know if the FE is centered in my '65 F-350? Is the crankshaft on the frame centerline or offset to one side? Some Chrysler cars had the engine offset 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inches to the passenger side.
I'm in the process of swapping out the NP435 for a Clark 285V five-speed, and since it's longer, I have to move the brownie back. My homemade mounts have to be remade, and it's very important that the axis of the brownie be parallel to the front-rear axis of the crankshaft and trans mainshaft (and the pinion yoke too). So I'd like to get them as close to inline as possible. It'll work if they are offset radially since the U-joint angles will take care of that, but any axial misalignment is asking for vibrations and rapid wear.
offset to the right to clear the steering , some fe's like in the t birds even had leveling plates under the carbs as the left side mounts were higher to help clear the steering , even today it's common,
Would you happen to know how far to the right? Or where I could find that dimension? thanks.
I would suggest looking at the firewall. The hump is not in the center of the truck.
I have a photo of a 429 mock up in my 63 and you can clearly see the offset in the firewall.
Interesting... I can see the engine in your pic does not appear centered - but the removable hump in the cab of my truck is not centered either!
I think I'll install the transmission, and measure to each frame rail from the center of the output shaft. Then I'll locate the brownie with distances from both input and output to frame rails as close to the same, and to the transmission output, as I can get.
Check out " Fordification.com/tech/bodybuilder70.htm" , for the 1970 data which includes F-350. Engines offset 1.50" to right, pinion 0 offset.
1966 F-250 (couldn't find F-350 info) shows same 1.50" engine offset, but pinion offset .50" to right. All crankshaft angles appear to be 4deg40min tail down.
Rear axle "R", "S", and "P" dimensions are given to calculate pinion angles, but my brain is not capable of that...
This is a pic of the motor in my 72. It’s a 460 using OEM perches. The black oval plug in the cowl is in the centerline of the cab. You can see the engine offset as the carb stud relates to the black oval plug.
1966 F-250 (couldn't find F-350 info) shows same 1.50" engine offset, but pinion offset .50" to right. All crankshaft angles appear to be 4deg40min tail down.
Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for The front mount on the brownie as manufactured has a 5 degree tail-down angle too. I also have a set of 4.10 gears for the Dana 70 and you are correct, it has the built-in 1/2" offset, as does the existing 4.88 set according to the numbers stamped on the axle tube.
I'll adjust my homemade mounts to 1.5" offset and see what it looks like.
Rear axle "R", "S", and "P" dimensions are given to calculate pinion angles, but my brain is not capable of that...
Remember when you were sitting in high school math class, grumbling that you'd never use trigonometry in real life? For this, it's useful I don't have to measure the angle on the irregularly-shaped brownie case directly since I have a level floor, and the height at the front and back shafts will change by tan (5°) = 0.0875, which translates to 1" per 12-9/16" of length, or ~15/16" per foot (1" per foot is 0.08333). Tan (4° 40') is 0.08163, also close to 1 inch per foot. Now I just have to accurately measure the distance between the brownie shaft flanges with two straightedges!
Fun with numbers I doubt I'll be able to measure as close as a sixteenth anyway, or if the concrete is THAT level...
Thanks. I'll be checking that, of course. Pinion angle (in cars, anyway) is usually a couple of degrees down with respect to the driveline, because the rear rotates upwards under power as the spring "wraps up" and you want it to be (relative) zero at full throttle... shouldn't the principle be the same for a truck that makes a lot more torque in the low gears?
Whatever your rear end flange angle is, must match the transmission flange angle so both flanges are parallel.
You do not want them straight at each other, that is where the 3-5 degree angle comes in.
You also want the yokes in phase.
When they are not the same angle, pointed at each other, or too large of a degree, the u-joints do not work correctly.
This is by far the best video that describes the importance of drive shaft angle and phasing:
Google "Spicer Torsional Analysis Calculator", which has a tool for both vertical and horizontal and multi-shaft drivelines. Also "Spicer Driveline Operating Angle Calculator". It will also put you to sleep much quicker than counting sheep...
A 1992 Ford service bulletin has a simple summary: "supermotors.net/registry/media/816251"
Hope the bad storms avoided your area last night!
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