Starter Problem -I'm stumped
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 14
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Starter Problem -I'm stumped
Hello to the brain trust. 
I have a problem with my starting system that has stumped me. 1960 F100, 292, 2WD. I get dash lights but no sound or action from the starter. Also no draw down of voltage from the battery when key turned. I've tried a new battery and jumping, no change. I've replaced the starter solenoid (x3, different brands), the ignition switch, the engine ground strap, and the feed wire to the starter. I have tried 3 different, new (reman) starters from 2 different sources and 2 different brands. Direct electrical connect from the battery to starter (pos to pos, neg to body bolt on starter) gets a rapid spin but no gear engagement. Added designated ground from body of starter to engine gets nothing, no draw down of battery. Same with jumping the solenoid with the positive.
Any thoughts?
Anyone have a wiring diagram for this 1960? I have one for a 1961 and it is close, but I just noticed the ignition switch part is off. Or anyone have just the ignition switch wiring diagram for a 1960?
I have a problem with my starting system that has stumped me. 1960 F100, 292, 2WD. I get dash lights but no sound or action from the starter. Also no draw down of voltage from the battery when key turned. I've tried a new battery and jumping, no change. I've replaced the starter solenoid (x3, different brands), the ignition switch, the engine ground strap, and the feed wire to the starter. I have tried 3 different, new (reman) starters from 2 different sources and 2 different brands. Direct electrical connect from the battery to starter (pos to pos, neg to body bolt on starter) gets a rapid spin but no gear engagement. Added designated ground from body of starter to engine gets nothing, no draw down of battery. Same with jumping the solenoid with the positive.Any thoughts?
Anyone have a wiring diagram for this 1960? I have one for a 1961 and it is close, but I just noticed the ignition switch part is off. Or anyone have just the ignition switch wiring diagram for a 1960?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 31,848
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From: Upstate NY
Have you verified the Bendix is working? If you hear the starter spin, the Bendix should come out and engage the flywheel.
By the way, rebuild electrical stuff is not really all that great these days.
By the way, rebuild electrical stuff is not really all that great these days.
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2015
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Photo or diagram of ignition swith connections 60 F100?
Anyone have a photo or diagram that shows whcih wires go to the four connections on the rear of the ignition switch in a 1960 Ford F100? There is the middle connection, then ACC, BAT and IGN. The diagrams I Have seen do not idicate which wires go where on these connectors. Any help appreciated.
Brad.
Brad.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,152
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From: Burbank, WA
What transmission do you have? You didn't say. If by chance you have the automatic, your neutral safety switch could be the culprit. If you have a manual trans, nevermind.
That said, a starter just spinning without the bendix kicking in to engage the flywheel is a problem. No matter how many you've tried. Have you looked at the flywheel itself to make sure there's teeth on the ring gear that the starter can engage? Perhaps the starter is actually working but if the flywheel teeth are bad and not engaging, it would have a similar symptom.
That said, a starter just spinning without the bendix kicking in to engage the flywheel is a problem. No matter how many you've tried. Have you looked at the flywheel itself to make sure there's teeth on the ring gear that the starter can engage? Perhaps the starter is actually working but if the flywheel teeth are bad and not engaging, it would have a similar symptom.
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2015
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Bad Battery Ground Was the Culprit.
FYI - I found that the factory ground for the battery, one of the bolts holding the battery tray to the firewall, just stopped working as a ground. At all. No matter how clean I got the connection. I feel a little embarrassed that I didn't detect that earlier. Not the last time for that probably. As I think back I think it had been slowly going bad for a while.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,152
Likes: 4,751
From: Burbank, WA
You'll find you'll have much better working starting and charging circuits if you run your main battery ground cable directly to the engine block, preferrably close to the starter. One of the bellhousing bolts near the starter would be best. From there, you also want to run a minimum 10ga wire from the block to the frame, and the frame to the cab. If you have lighting grounds at the radiator support or bed, you'll want to add a dedicated ground wire from those parts to the frame, too. You can't have too much redundency on grounds.
What likely happened is no matter how clean your cable connection was at the firewall, there were no other satisfactory paths to ground, cab to frame, to block, etc., for the electrons to return to the battery. The cab is sitting on rubber mounts and is insulated, so whatever ground path available wasn't enough to get the job done. Things like throttle linkage, choke cable, etc., was trying to take the place of a solid and dependable ground source, lacking proper wiring.
What likely happened is no matter how clean your cable connection was at the firewall, there were no other satisfactory paths to ground, cab to frame, to block, etc., for the electrons to return to the battery. The cab is sitting on rubber mounts and is insulated, so whatever ground path available wasn't enough to get the job done. Things like throttle linkage, choke cable, etc., was trying to take the place of a solid and dependable ground source, lacking proper wiring.
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