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Disconnect the cable going to the starter, from the large stud on the fender mounted starter relay.
Set your volt meter up to read DC volts, with one lead on the battery negative and the other lead to the large stud where the starter cable was connected.
Disconnect the small gauge wire from the "S" terminal at the starter relay.
Put on safety glasses or a face shield.
Using one conductor of a set of jumper cables, use red to keep it simple, connect one red clamp to the battery positive post, and use the other red clamp to touch the "S" terminal stud.
When the relay closes, 12 volts should be present at the large stud where the starter cable was connected.
Have the truck in park or out of gear, have the parking brake set and wheels chocked.
So my second replacement solenoid(fender mounted) is again bad? no start relay(six or seven pin cube) involved at all?
Be methodical, and test for voltage as described above.
No, there's no "cube" relay involved with powering the starter.
The battery terminals, positive and negative battery cables, and their connections need to be clean and reasonably tight; at the fender relay, at the engine block and at the starter.
Understood. Now if the meter shows something less than 12v or nothing at all this indicates a bad solenoid? What about the start relay, the black seven pin cube?
Understood. Now if the meter shows something less than 12v or nothing at all this indicates a bad solenoid? What about the start relay, the black seven pin cube?
the parts store counter monkey does not know his asterisk form a hole in the ground. your truck does not have one of them in the starter circuit no matter what his computer says.
with volt meter, black wire on ground cable, and red wire on the small wire going into the starter relay, have someone turn the key to start. you should see 12 volts to the starter relay. if there is 12 volts there, either the relay is bad, or the ground is bad.
the parts store counter monkey does not know his asterisk form a hole in the ground. your truck does not have one of them in the starter circuit no matter what his computer says.
with volt meter, black wire on ground cable, and red wire on the small wire going into the starter relay, have someone turn the key to start. you should see 12 volts to the starter relay. if there is 12 volts there, either the relay is bad, or the ground is bad.
Could it be the neutral safety switch.or if it is a manual a clutch switch. Get a evtm it is valuable as it has wiring diagrams and trouble shooting charts.
Anyone added extra ground from noid back to battery, just to CYA?
Originally Posted by nuttruck
No solenoid on the starter, just on the passenger side fender. The solenoid on the fender produces only a "click" when key turned to start, no turn over. When solenoid jumped with screwdriver engine fires right up as it should. So, if solenoid jump results in solid turnover and fire, key turn prodices very audible click from solenoid, what is left? all connections cleaned, solid ground, nothing left...except replace start relay? as in the little black cube with six or seven flat pins on the bottom, but where does it plug in???
Its not a solenoid if its the modern type black plastic body, with 2 studs. Its a relay. The solenoid on the starter is still there.
The old type was a solenoid , and is worse than the modern type. Can be upgraded anytime
This adds confusion because there will also be a starter relay in the relay box im pretty sure
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