Finally said enough was enough to the ESOF. The nipple in the hub was plugged, vacuum lines rotted, and the housings cracked. For the couple times a year I need it, I figured I’d save the money with the Warns.

This was completed on a 2000 F350 DRW truck.

Tools needed:
-Jack
-Jack stand
-Safety Glasses
-Impact (ratchet and breaker bar will work)
-13/16 socket
-Pliers
-Wire brush (handheld or drill type)
-9/64 Allen wrench (socket preferred for torquing)
-Claw pry bar (flathead screwdriver)
-Inch-lb torque wrench
-Foot-lb torque wrench

Shop supplies:
-Brake clean
-anti-seize
-compressed air

Removal:
1. Start by lifting the vehicle up and finding a safe place to put your jack stand. I then slowly let the jack down to make sure nothing shifts. I then put a little pressure on the jack for double redundancy.

2. Remove the wheel stud cover. I used a claw style pry bar because my rims are pitted. A screwdriver works as well.

3. Remove the 8 lug nuts with the 13/16. I used a 1/2” impact but a breaker bar will do.

4. Remove the wheel. I always put it under the truck as a 3rd safety measure. It also prevents a trip hazard.

5. Using a 6” extension and the 13/16 socket, remove the 8 hub extension nuts.
I then thread them on the wheel studs for safe keeping and to protect the studs in case it where to fall. Then for reassembly they are right there.

6. Using a pliers , remove the hub lockout retaining clip.

7. Remove the hub locker

8. Using a small plastic bag, or rag (I used the plastic bag the hardware came in for the new hubs) to protect the axle shaft. I then used a wire wheel to clean the retaining ring groove.

9. Remove the plastic bag/rag and clean up with brake clean.

10. I put a little marine grease on the axle even though the new hubs come with it. Install the new warn hub. Make note you do not need the axle retaining snap ring.

11. Next install the spiral ring. Expand it, starting at the top. Working it around until it is fully seated.

12. Install the o-ring on the cover. Make sure the hub is set to free before installing

13. Put a little anti-seeze on the bolts and install the hub. Be sure to line the three tangs on the cover to the hub. Torque to 35-45inlbs.

14. Test operation by spinning the hub free and locked. When locked it will spin the inner shaft. When free it will not.

15. Installing is reverse process.


*I took this time to inspect my front brakes and grease the caliper slides.


Using claw pry bar to remove cover. A screwdriver would probably protect the rim more. Obviously I am not worried about my pitted wheels.

6” extension and 13/16 socket to remove hub extension.

Hub extension nuts to protect wheel studs and keep track of the nuts. Plus they are right there when reinstalling.

Easy access to the hub.

Using a pliers to remove retaining ring.

Plastic bag over the axle shaft to protect it from debris while cleaning snapring groove.

Wire wheel I used to clean the groove.

All clean.

New hub installed

Spiral ring expanded out for install.

Start the ring as the top and work it around.

Make sure it is fully seated.

Be sure to line up the three tangs when installing the cover.

New o-ring installed on the cover

Torque to 35-45inchlbs. I put anti-seeze on the bolts.

 

What is the part number on those.

I was just looking into them and it states the neither the Warn 38826 or the 11690 will fit with a dually.

Yours is obviously a dually and curious about what the fitment issue could be.

Edit: corrected the premium part # from 33826

 

No difference. The SRW and DRW front axle parts are identical except for the wheel adapters and lug nut studs.


Oh, and unless a guy's super-ana.....uh....particular about it, wheel and adapter removal is not necessary to change the locking hubs on a DRW.

 

I honestly did it this way just to document it for the forum.

 

33826 will fit. Like stated above they are the same as a standard front.

 

I just want to make a correction in the part number for anyone who finds this thread in the future.

Its 38826 not 33826 as I had originally typed it in.

Not sure why but Amazon and another distributor say not for Dually.
Warn’s website for fitment doesn’t have that restriction.

 

Posting in haste left me wondering if I should correct (or amend) my previous response.

FACTORY locking hubs with the stock style retaining ring can easily be removed and installed/replaced with the dually adapter installed.

Removing or installing aftermarket locking hubs cannot be done because the spiral locking ring/flat snap ring cannot be removed with the adapter installed nor will the aftermarket locking hub cap fit through the adapter.

OEM/Factory-style replacement: 1
Aftermarket: 0

 

I'm doing the same project, and for those that are waffling, the price is lower. I paid 292 for the 38826 from Amazon.

I gotta get these put on before first snow.