Looking for some advice here. I started noticing a pull to the left after installing new tires (37x12.50x17 Toyo RT Open Country, previous were 315/75R16 Toyo MT). When the front is jacked up, passenger side wheel can spin freely (about 5 rotations until it stops), drivers side spins about 1.5 times, the drivers side hub just seems to have more resistance. I can't believe that the resistance would cause this pull, but its all I got.

What I've done/checked:
1) Brake caliper - there was slightly more dragging on the drivers side. It was a Motorcraft rebuild that was replaced about 2 years ago. I tried a new caliper, but it still drags about the same. Slider pins new and greased.
2) Flushed brake fluid
3) Inspected, disassembled and greased locking hub. Spins freely and have tried driving with it removed, no change. (Yes, it is not in the locked position)
4) I have new Crown SS brake lines, installed about 2 years ago
5) Wheel hub assy was replaced last year, Timken brand
6) Adjustable track bar, axle is centered
7) Ball joints solid, no play
8) Rechecked my alignment, all good
9) Rotated tires (thought this was going to do it)

I'm now leaning towards the ABS module or master cylinder, somehow causing the drivers side to drag more, but I don't know if that is possible. Not sure if there is anything else left to check. The pull is not bad, but I have to hold the steering wheel straight at all times and is getting a bit old.

 

Everything I was gonna throw out you've covered. The wifes 4runner is like that. I keep thinking what the H is wrong with this thing, and then I hit a perfectly flat windless section of road and you could drive no hands for miles it seems.

 

Did you also check the rear brakes?

 

That is an interesting thought about rear brakes. So I use an IR thermometer to check temps from time to time. The rears and fronts are always about equal temperature, I believe somewhere in the 1750F range after a drive. I think the last I checked was about a month ago.

That being said, the rear calipers are about 4 years old, Powerstop brand (which I don't really trust). The outermost pad on the drivers side is about 1/2 the thickness of the inboard pad... Sooo, maybe you're on to something there. I should probably pull them and check slider pins...

 

I know you mentioned a lot of things you've tried but to me, if you're getting a different amount of revolutions on one side compared to the other side, then that is the obvious place to start.

I'll admit that I didn't read your entire post but I may go back and reread it after I post my initial thoughts.

Drag "typically" means you have a brake that is not releasing properly and/or enough. So, in spite of your checks on the calipers, I would check them again. BUT ALSO, have you made sure that each wheel has the correct brake spring on the brake pads such as the "V" spring AND....AND...is it installed correctly and functioning properly? I know a lot of vehicles don't even have these things but since they are on these trucks, it is worth noting if they are working properly or at all as this could cause "some" of the issue.

Next, have your checked to see if you have sticking calipers? How have you checked? Have you been able to have someone step on the brake pedal while you turn the wheels and seen how many revolutions they go after the brake pedal has been released? Do you hear any noises? Have you done a full brake fluid bleed and put new fluid in? Is it possible you have some weird air pocket causing an issue?

To me, it seems like a sticking caliper or missing "V" springs or improperly functioning "V" springs.

OR.....OR......OR......what about if you have a bad wheel hub? Have you considered that? THAT would obviously cause a problem as well. I know it would suck to have to remove the brake pads and so on but this would be a great place to look at as well. If you are trying to turn the wheels with all your force and there are no pads touching the rotors and you can only get about 2 or 3 revolutions from one side and the other side seems to get about 7 or 8 revolutions, then it's possible you have a bad wheel hub. Or, you might have a bad locking hub actuator that's sticking (maybe?).

Keep in mind that a wheel hub that spins more revolutions MAY NOT NECESSARILY MEAN that it is "good" as having less resistance "could mean" that the bearings are actually failing on that hub.

I've noticed that when I do wheel bearing repacking on trailer hubs where I have to re tighten the spindle bearing nut, if I back it off an extra 1/4 turn, the hub spins so much more freely. However, if I "jiggle" the hub, it has more "jiggle" or "play" or up and down or side to side movement than I would prefer. Having too much up and down or side to side movement isn't good either because then you will end up having bearing failure as well. Too tight and it obviously causes too much friction and little rotation so there is a "sweet spot" of how to set the tightness.

With the sealed hubs of these trucks, we obviously can't change the "tightness" or "looseness" of the hub or bearings so we have to go with what we have. If your hub that rotates a lot more seems to be okay, I would check it really close to make sure it actually doesn't have just a little bit of "play" (movement) in it. If it doesn't, then I guess perhaps the other one is bad afterall. Possibly.

But, what if you were to change the wheel hub AND IT STILL only rotated about 2 or 3 rotations after reassembly? Then what?

 

@eldridge201 Got it right... I had time to pull off the caliper and rotor yesterday to check the passenger side wheel bearing. It sounds like a rattle can. No play, but certainly on its way out. Spins too freely and I feel like it's causing the slight pull.

This wheel bearing was replaced about 40k ago by my friend, the previous owner, with an unknown manufacturer. (He can't remember). Most of my miles on this truck are in Mexico and offroad so that and the combo of bigger tires must have accelerated the failure.

Just thought I'd follow up with this for anyone in the future.